Have a code c1233 for rf speed censor, changed to left received both then, traced wire all the way to large group of wires going to ecm, anyone got any ideas?

 

the wiring harness could be the problem. If the code is still there after swapping jumper harnesses, the problem may be the wheel speed sensor.
If all the wires check out good, it's time to take a trip to Auto Zone for a new set of bearings. You can buy replacement AC Delco bearing from your dealer if you want to, or get the exact same bearing in a different box for half the price (~$150) from Auto Zone, you decide.

 

I agree. Also the wheel bearing assemblies at Autozone are very good ones for a cheap price, by Tiemkin(sp).

 

The output of the wheel sensor can be checked with a meter before replacing.

 

Any-thing on how to do that or what it is to read?

 

Anything on how to do that or what readings it is to be?

 

I know you are new to the forum....you can take advantage of the search function (upper right hand corner) to find many answers.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...sor-codes.html

 

I have at least,,,, 20 separate post on this very topic. I’ve owned and worked on C5's since early 98. I’ve NEVER seen ONE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR ever fail. There just about bullet proof. All it consist of is a coil of wire with a toothed reluctor wheel in the center of the coil. The sensor produces a small AC voltage that INCREASES as wheel speed increases .. Spin the wheel and see if your getting an AC voltage out of the sensor pig tail. It starts out at zero and can be as high as 4+ VDC if you spin the wheel fast enough. If you see an AC voltage, the sensor is GOOD.

Sure, the wheel bearings can fail, you can rip the SENSOR pig tail out of the hub but, the sensor its self is hardly ever is the issue.

90% of the time, the problem is a FEMALE pin in the circuit somewhere. There are several in the front harness. There are TWO female pins in the jumper harness and two female pins in the connector where the jumper harness plugs in on the front K member. All of those female pins are suspect. The proper way to test the connection is to insert a spare MALE pin into the female pin. There should be a positive firm connection. If it is bad, it will be sloppy and loose. DO NOT use silicone dielectric grease in those connectors!!!!!!!!!