Have a 99 frc. The issue is when you go to start it it seldom starts on the first try, but will fire right off on second try. You barely have to bump it first time, then second time it will start. Sometimes it seems if you park it on a slight incline (nose down) it will start first time. I've replaced the ruel filter/regulator, didn't solve the problem.
Any ideas?

 

NEED MORE INFO! Does it crank and not start or does it NOT CRANK????

Read and post yoyr DTCs

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Yes it cranks the first time, and no codes are present(power train at least) I will try what you posted and see if I come up with anything else. The only mods on the car is a K&N kit, bbk 80mm tb and headers. The previous owner did these but never had it tuned. It acts like most vehicles would with a bad fuel pressure regulator. If you hold the key it will crank(excesively) and not start. If you bump the stater just enough to engage the first time(not even turn it over) the second time it fires right off.

 

go check your codes. Post all codes

 

here is what happened to me:
C5 intermittent no start because of NO CRANK- longer it sat harder to start (would not CRANK)- anyway- i changed the solonoid (i even did the no start/bang on starter/and it DID started test) this didnt work- replaced the TDR- still no crank- i just ended up, like 5 minutes ago running a wire directly to ground from the TDR yellow and black wire which to my understanding is what suppile ground to this relay ANDDDDDD: starts every time with no codes...uuummm any ideas on this one?

 

Not the OP's issue......engine cranks fine.

 

So it DID or didn't work??

You may want to start your own thread on this one

 

I'm assuming you somehow reached a conclusion that the fuel filter/regulator was bad....that being said, in troubleshooting, what is the measured pressure at the rail? Did you check for bleed down.

 

He did the "crank for days then bump twice" test...who cares what the pressure is?

What is bleed down?

 

my solution worked for me- intermittent no start due to no crank- created a valid ground and she cranks/starts every time with no codes-
sorry if i posted in an incorrect area just posting while my hands are literally still dirty and what i did is fresh in memory to see if this can help somone else with a similar very annoying problem- for what it is worth i am in Arizona and drive about 15 miles a wekk on a slightly washboarded dirt road- nest i will do as Mr Curlee recommends and evaluate and clean all the grounds- i have done a few and the appeared virtually immaculate- car is an original AZ car for what it is worth

 

If you're going to hi jack, at least post your codes......
....and here's the bad news. If you have a genuine VATS issue, eventually, the BCM will not send the correct code to the PCM, and the fuel injectors will be disabled......and you'll be stranded.

Hope it works out.

 

OO Corvette Guy- what i meanyt was all the threads and my sympoms pointed to the starter solenoid being bad- went to Lake Powell/returned 5 days later/went to start car- no crank...had to be a work in 40 minutes- got under car whacked it with said hammers: car cranked and started- i thought happily oh i can just put in a new solenoid which i did- it turned out the solenoid was not the problem- my conclusion: a simultaneous event that whacking on the starter with hammer gave me the ability to crank and start car; but was not causational- they just occurred at the same time- really wish it was the solenoid though

 

To the OP! Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail in front. Key on, engine off. See if it quickly bleeds off. If so, see below:

Fuel feed rear pipe. GM 10448899

 

Lucky- you are killing me with that one- i think i will just do a resistor bypass on the VATS- what do you think- what would you do?- i really would still like to have some antitheft sytem enabled

 

oh NO codes ever- in all my situation i never got any codes- just no cranking

 

You should really start your own thread. I've never heard of the coincidence where the car won't crank, then you go hit the starter with a hammer...then it starts....and the solenoid does not fix it.

and there are no codes? are you checking through the DIC or with autozones code reader?

START YOUR OWN THREAD, IF YOU BUILD IT...THEY WILL COME

 

I do know what bleed down is.. lol Only current code is a BCM B2647HC ambient light sensor.
It does have 4 old RFA codes U1255H, U1096H, U1064H, U1016H. all class 2 comunication malfunction

 

00 corvette- will do thx! george

 

I can't find a list that has B 2647 on it..

can someone confirm that code is for ambient light sensor?

Are there ANY OTHER CODES current or not?

 

Not to mention whacking a PMG starter with a hammer does no good...