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So my car has been sitting in the garage for a while because I've been afraid to drive it due to high coolant temps. I took it out for a little ride today, and still, the temp gets between 235 and 245, and STAYS there. Even when its just idoling in the garage. The coolant has been topped off, its not leaking so it shouldn't be the water pump. I've replaced the thermostat, and my fans are turning on after it hits 220 or so. I've also looked underneath the radiator so see if there's junk under there, its clean. The only other thing I can think of is bleeding the radiator maybe? Any suggestions?
Drain the system and pull the radiator, I think you will be surprised at the dirt you fund between the fins that you can't see without pulling it out of the car.
I had the same problem last year. I tried everything to remedy the problem and it was as simple as washing the fins. Dirt collect and coats the exterior of the fins. I use a piece of 1/4 inch flexible copper tube about 2 feet long bent the tip to a 90 degree angle and used a couple adapters to fasten it to the hose. Then I removed the plastic piece that covers the radiator (4 screws). Turn the hose on and maneuver the water jet between the radiator and condenser. I now can keep it clean without removing the radiator or damaging the fins. It works great and its only 10 minutes work.
Hi 8VETTE7,
Here is the item you are looking for. 24" deluxe w/90 degree angled nozzle blow gun. $ 26.97 $13.73 item,shipping $13.24 go figure. do a google type;MTN 9762 Works good for radiator & condenser cleaning.The angled tip does not fit in between the condenser & radiator like I though it would, its a tad too wide. I just did the radiator cleaning yesterday with the 9762 b/gun.
Harbor freight may have this in stock for a lot less. When I checked into it they did not no have it.I just found it. Item #35266 for $4.99 The picture on the site shows the nozzle at a 45 degree angle.
robsc501
Last edited by robsc501; Oct 8, 2010 at 10:12 AM.
Reason: additional info.
Hi 8VETTE7,
I was wondering how you install the alignment pin washers after installing the shroud & connecting the IAT sensor. The under hood light I leave that unpluged but attach it to the shroud. I lossed one of the washers & found one yesterday. I had the shroud on my w/bench & popped them off with a auto trim tool while heating with a hair dryer.lol (cool weather here). I went to the dealer & bought 2 of them. Cost $1.45 p/n 10161510 nomenclature fastner special 14.683. Any way I used a 11" long needle nose w/a90 degree angle.That made those push on washers easy to install. Before I did that I checked which deep socket would fit. A 3/8 drive 7/16" would also work if you didn,t have the n/nose.
I have a problem since I installed this black wing about 2 months ago. I can not get the stock a/bridge to lay flat on the shoud & connect to the 2 push type pins. The coupler is the stock accordian type. The a/bridge layed flat before I installed the b/wing. Its up about a 1/4" Any ideals on how to fix this or what the problem is?
Thanks for any info.
robsc501
Hi There 8VETTE7,
I agree with you that the shroud does not need the push on type washers installed. My air box is tight against it. So my engine is a stock ls1.
Air box then a 3 1/2" long smooth black coupler attached with 3 clamps that have alignment cut outs in each clamp. The maf is located at the 10 o'clock position standing at the pass. fender looking toward the front of the car.Then the air bridge sticking up in the air where the push on pegs are. Aft of that a 5" long accordian black coupler. When I close the hood the flags on the a/bridge are starting to make a mark on my hood liner. I can not push the air bridge down against the radiator top & secure it with the pins.If I leave this like this it is going to wear a hole through the hood liner which mine is in really nice shape. My coupler at the t/ body is easy to put on.
robsc501