Hey fellas, new to the forum and I'm hoping for some help. Recently reacquired my 01 Z06 from my dad and not able to drive it. It was parked for about 8 months without as much as a spritz of water(other than rain). The dash flickers and I get the "pull key and wait 10 secs" warning. It will start, idle and even rev normally but dies on takeoff. I've been looking at all my grounds (as per Bill Curlee) no corrosion whatsoever. Any ideas where I can look? Thanks in advance.

 

You need to get a clb(colum lock bypass) what's happening is the fuel cutoff is engaging at 2mph(or is it 4) read the big sticky at the top of the page but buy one asap.

 

I'll try that. Thanks a million

 

No, you would get a message on the DIC if that was the problem. Check the codes and post.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)3) Press and hold OPTIONS4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display. There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory.

 

Sounds like the security "feature" has kicked in-any faster than 2 mph and your DEAD.

 

Nothing came up on the dash when it happened to my dads, it also had the "gm fix". But it was the column lock that was causing the car to shut of at 2 mph.
One other thing you may want to look at since it has been sitting for 8 months is the battery, you only need 12.2 volts to start the car but the the column lock need 12.5 to operate as it should.
Either way you need to get a CLB because its not a question of if it will fail its when and the GM fix does not last and if the lock does fail you are going to have to buy a new one and install it so it sends a good signal to the computer.

 

Codes will tell the story.

 

True, but I was just saying that it will not always show up on the DIC, but he is getting the pull key wait ten seconds which is a symptom of the column lock failing.

 

Ok guys, did a little inspection under the dash. I found no evidence of any "fix" by dealership. WHat I did find under the passenger kickboard was what looked like cut wires with tape on the end. No purple wire bypass. The cut wires were orange, yellow and white(solid). I'm not sure if thats on all cars or what. Here is a LIST of codes:
P1518H
B0502H
B2482H
B0333H
C1226H
C1277H
C1278H
C1283H
C1287H
C1288H
U1016H
B2282H
B2284H
B2283H
B2285H
B2263H
B2265H
U1255H
B0586H
U1096H
B2262H
B2264H
U1255H
U1064H
No current codes. Still get the "pull key" and "service column lock" warnings.
Oh, car has a new battery.

 

Will do. Post tonight as soon as I get home.

 

Ok I cleared all the old codes and pulled fuses #25&29 and waited 10 minutes. Rechecked codes and only these came back: Hvac b0333h c
Scm u1255h
I still got the "service column lock" and flickering from the dash. Though the flickering may be from wires underneath the battery. I did notice some white residue underneath the battery box. Anything else I should try before CLB arrives?

 

Ok, I just wanted to fill y'all in on some new info for my current problem. I haven't had a chance to check anything else since my last post but....I did talk with the local chev dealer and the "dealer fix" was done back in '08. maybe this changes what I need to try along with CLB. Thanks for your help.

 

The only thing I was able to try was disconnect the K harness, reconnect the factory wires and reset the codes. I still get the Service column lock warning and car still shuts off when I try to move it. Gonna look into the passenger side stuff later tonight.

 

So today still no CLB(should be in tomorrow). I was able to replace the safety relay. Car DIDN'T die on take off anymore. Then ten minutes later same ole story. Volts across the poles was 12.2 so I have the battery on a trickle charger now. Codes today were P1518H C.