Battery Charge - Normal Range?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
Battery Charge - Normal Range?
This will be my first winter with a '97 coupe.
The battery is strong, and the car starts quickly. The normal readout during routine driving is 13.7 volts. As I start to use the car less, the initial readout at startup has been as low as 10.6 volts, but then quickly (within a few seconds) jumps up to 14.4 volts. It will stay there for a few miles, then slowly return to what has been the normal 13.7 volt readout within 15 minutes of highway driving.
Even with the initial 10.6 volt readout, the Vette started easily and quickly. I have added an IPod connector kit to replace the trunk mounted CD changer, but Dennis at Double D Mods (who has been very helpful) indicated that this unit should create no draw when off.
For this year the car will be outside, and I plan on connecting a battery tender. Do these voltage ranges seem normal?
Thanks!
The battery is strong, and the car starts quickly. The normal readout during routine driving is 13.7 volts. As I start to use the car less, the initial readout at startup has been as low as 10.6 volts, but then quickly (within a few seconds) jumps up to 14.4 volts. It will stay there for a few miles, then slowly return to what has been the normal 13.7 volt readout within 15 minutes of highway driving.
Even with the initial 10.6 volt readout, the Vette started easily and quickly. I have added an IPod connector kit to replace the trunk mounted CD changer, but Dennis at Double D Mods (who has been very helpful) indicated that this unit should create no draw when off.
For this year the car will be outside, and I plan on connecting a battery tender. Do these voltage ranges seem normal?
Thanks!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
NO! How are you reading that voltage?? DIC and or dash Volt meter??? That voltage reading IS NOT battery voltage. Its the voltage reading supplied after the IGNITION SWITCH. If the ignition switch has burnt contacts, it will cause reduced / poor voltages to all supplied circuits.
To read the REAL battery charging voltage, you have to read directly on the battery terminals. If the battery terninals read flukey readings, you have a bad connection at the statrer solenoid. The alternator and the battery are connected thru the main terninal on the solenoid.
Make SUER that the battery terninals are clean and tight (tighen to 11 ft/lbs), the solenoid termonal connections are clean and tight and make sure that your ignition switch is out putting the correct HOT in RUN and Start voltages to all the electronic modules.
BC
To read the REAL battery charging voltage, you have to read directly on the battery terminals. If the battery terninals read flukey readings, you have a bad connection at the statrer solenoid. The alternator and the battery are connected thru the main terninal on the solenoid.
Make SUER that the battery terninals are clean and tight (tighen to 11 ft/lbs), the solenoid termonal connections are clean and tight and make sure that your ignition switch is out putting the correct HOT in RUN and Start voltages to all the electronic modules.
BC
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
The readings are from the DIC, and are consistent with the analog volt meter.
The 10.6 volt reading is right after startup, and I thought it might be the normal drop to to the starting load. In other cars, I know that the alternator delivers about 14.5 volts, so it seemed OK that I was getting a 14.4 volt reading until the battery returned to full charge.
I'll follow up and check the readings at the terminals.
The 10.6 volt reading is right after startup, and I thought it might be the normal drop to to the starting load. In other cars, I know that the alternator delivers about 14.5 volts, so it seemed OK that I was getting a 14.4 volt reading until the battery returned to full charge.
I'll follow up and check the readings at the terminals.
