Leaf spring repair/replacement
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Leaf spring repair/replacement
Hi all,
I've been told that I need my front leaf spring replaced. Apparently the right adjuster bolt has a crack in it. Just wondering...can the bolt itself be replaced? Or do I have to replace the entire leaf spring? I am asking for an "expert" opinion here for two main reasons: the shops I've dealt with insist there are coil springs until I insist otherwise (this doesn't instill confidence) and secondly, I am female and always am suspicious that I'm not getting the straight goods
Thank you.
K.C
I've been told that I need my front leaf spring replaced. Apparently the right adjuster bolt has a crack in it. Just wondering...can the bolt itself be replaced? Or do I have to replace the entire leaf spring? I am asking for an "expert" opinion here for two main reasons: the shops I've dealt with insist there are coil springs until I insist otherwise (this doesn't instill confidence) and secondly, I am female and always am suspicious that I'm not getting the straight goods
Thank you.
K.C
Last edited by K.C; Oct 20, 2010 at 01:55 PM. Reason: spelling
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 20
As long as whats left of the bolt can be removed and the threads are ok it is not a problem. Here is an excellent replacement:
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...products_id=48
New springs come with adjusters if you go that route.
It may be easiest to do the adjuster replacement with the spring out of the car and the easiest way to do that is to unbolt both shocks to allow the suspension to droop all the way. You may need to unbolt one or both upper a arms for more droop. Swing the suspension all the way down (hang brake calipers on chassis)on one side and slide spring out. Factory springs are soft and have a lot of arch in them so that is why so much needs to be done. Firmer, aftermarket springs, depending on rate, are much flatter (mine is nearly flat and does not contact the lower control arms with the car up in the air) and easier to take out.
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...products_id=48
New springs come with adjusters if you go that route.
It may be easiest to do the adjuster replacement with the spring out of the car and the easiest way to do that is to unbolt both shocks to allow the suspension to droop all the way. You may need to unbolt one or both upper a arms for more droop. Swing the suspension all the way down (hang brake calipers on chassis)on one side and slide spring out. Factory springs are soft and have a lot of arch in them so that is why so much needs to be done. Firmer, aftermarket springs, depending on rate, are much flatter (mine is nearly flat and does not contact the lower control arms with the car up in the air) and easier to take out.
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Wow! I'm liking this forum..quick replies.
I'm looking to go the route that costs me the least
Thank you for your help. Now I just have to find a shop that is familiar with C5 suspensions. (And trust me...it is not the GM dealership in my town)
K.C
I'm looking to go the route that costs me the least
Thank you for your help. Now I just have to find a shop that is familiar with C5 suspensions. (And trust me...it is not the GM dealership in my town)
K.C
Resident moron
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,746
Likes: 20
From: Assachusetts
Just a random question, how did the adjuster bolt get cracked? Did it break off completely? How did you even notice the problem? Just curious about the circumstances. Seems pretty difficult for the adjuster bolt to get damage at all unless someone simply rounded it off or even sheared it off (seems hard to do that even).
Dope
Dope
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Kind of answering 2 posts in one reply...I have no idea how it broke...one too many bumps over the years? Rust? I live in Canada and am not the original owner. Who knows if it was winter driven??. Anyhow...I heard a "cracking" noise in the front end, especially when turning on a uphill grade. No handling problems, just intermittent noise. I was actually worried about a universal joint and took it to a local GM dealer who told me I needed a new leaf spring. They did not seem all that confident, so I got a second opinion. It was the second shop who told me the bolt was broken. The bolt is still in place and they tell me the cracking happens when the bolt itself is out of alignment at times... The car definitely has leaf springs and the shop people who insisted they were coil springs did so before looking under the car. I (the girl) have had to correct countless guys with regards to my car having leaf springs vs. coil springs, including people who sell suspension parts, as I was looking for better prices than the dealership offered.
K.C
K.C
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Did a Search on this subject and found this thread.........So i'm bringing it back to life.
I noticed my front spring has a crack about 2 to 3 inches long .
I read the Service Manual and i'm not all that crazy about unbolting one of the lower control arms. Is there an easier way to remove the spring or do i have to go the route as described in the Manual ?
Also..........It is wise to buy one out of a parted out car ?
My way of thinking is, parted out car has racked up miles, spring may be weak ?
Or do these composite springs hold their "Spring" ?
I noticed my front spring has a crack about 2 to 3 inches long .
I read the Service Manual and i'm not all that crazy about unbolting one of the lower control arms. Is there an easier way to remove the spring or do i have to go the route as described in the Manual ?
Also..........It is wise to buy one out of a parted out car ?
My way of thinking is, parted out car has racked up miles, spring may be weak ?
Or do these composite springs hold their "Spring" ?
Last edited by SG Lou; Mar 18, 2011 at 10:19 PM. Reason: added to text
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 20
Disconnect the upper control arm (keep track of the washers, if any, behind the control arm ends so you do not affect alignment) from the chassis and let the whole corner swing down and out of the way. Prior to doing that put a jack under the lower control arm to lower slowly as the factory springs are soft and have a lot of arch in them. You may have to disconnect the tie rod from the spindle to get it far enough out of the way. It's been a long time since I've done a factory spring, but if I remember correctly, you should be able to only do the above to one side and be able to pull it (out the side) without having to mess with the opposite side.
Not sure what your budget is, but an aftermarket (I use VBP) spring is about $500. The handling on these cars gets much better with more front spring rate. Not to mention the rates that are much higher are nearly flat so they are super easy to install. They also come with delrin spring pads so they work with much less bind.
Not sure what your budget is, but an aftermarket (I use VBP) spring is about $500. The handling on these cars gets much better with more front spring rate. Not to mention the rates that are much higher are nearly flat so they are super easy to install. They also come with delrin spring pads so they work with much less bind.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
There are 2 ways to get the spring out.
You can either pull the lower control arm bolts on one side and maybe either the sway bar link or the lower shock bolts. Then, the suspension pulls out and you can get the spring past the lower a-arm.
The other way is to remove the shocks and swaybar links on both sides. Then, you seperate the lower ball-joints and let the arms hang down. You could also remove the calipers and unbolt the upper a-arms to allow the suspension to drop. You may still have trouble getting a base model spring out even after doing this.
I've done the first method and it's quite easy to get the spring out. Yu should be getting an alignment anyways once you replace the spring so mark the bolts with a sharp marker or a scribe and put them back as close as you can so you can drive it to the alignment shop.
Peter
You can either pull the lower control arm bolts on one side and maybe either the sway bar link or the lower shock bolts. Then, the suspension pulls out and you can get the spring past the lower a-arm.
The other way is to remove the shocks and swaybar links on both sides. Then, you seperate the lower ball-joints and let the arms hang down. You could also remove the calipers and unbolt the upper a-arms to allow the suspension to drop. You may still have trouble getting a base model spring out even after doing this.
I've done the first method and it's quite easy to get the spring out. Yu should be getting an alignment anyways once you replace the spring so mark the bolts with a sharp marker or a scribe and put them back as close as you can so you can drive it to the alignment shop.
Peter
Last edited by lionelhutz; Mar 19, 2011 at 04:01 PM.
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