I have a 2002 vert and starting this morning as I was driving I noticed the oil pressure guage was suddenly at max, I checked the digital on the DIC and it reports 130 PSI. My thought is the oil pressure sending unit behind the intake manifold. I found a thread on this forum on how to replace the sensor without removing the manifold, I have no experience on engine work but I would hate to pay the stealership big bucks for something that looks so simple. Is it really that easy to do as shown on the video or is this something I shoudn't risk DIY and pay to have it fixed. Before I go this route is there anything else that would cause the oil PSI gauge to max out besides the Pressure sensor? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Here is the link for the pressure sender DIY, let me know what you think?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1575191276-post26.html

 

There have been a few members post up & have followed this proceedure with success.

There have been otheres post up and say, there is no way you can get the "true" torque value doing it this way.

Myself, if I were in the position of having to change mine, the easier route is the way I would go. You wouldn't want to have the new one installed too loose or too tight. Heck, I've read posts where the person took the intake off & install the new sending unit & have the new one go out in a very short time.

If I were to pull the intake to do the job, I would allso do the relocation mod. That way I wouldn't have to pull the intake again if the sending unit should go out again.

Good luck.

 

im curious as to which one those people used as a replacement unit. The factory OEM one is brass

 

From what I have seen posted, it dosn't matter. They all seem to have problems.
Which some have mentioned, it might have to do with over/under torqueing of the new unit.?

 

If you do the relocation you solve the problem for good. You get the sensor out of a hot spot and if it does ever go out again all you have to do is pull a fuel rail cover and replace, 5 minute job.

Here's what I used to replace/relocate my sensor:

From Summit Racing

Autometer adapter ATM-2268
Earls fitting 982303ERL
Russel line RUS-658080
Russel fitting RUS-660410

From Lowes

Brass fitting 1/4 male to 1/8 female
Brass fitting 1/4 to 1/4 female

From Gene Culley gmpartshouse.com

Buick sensor 12584940

The finished product:

 

Call Vette Doctors on Long Island and have them install the TPE relocation kit and be done with it once and for all.

HTH

 

i guess im lucky than. I replaced mine almost a year ago and it hasnt given me any problem since. But i was sure to replace it with a brass unit instead of an aluminum one. IVe had my car 3 years before it went.

 

I'm going to try the video method should only take a few minutes and if it fails again you get a free replacement. I don't mind wrenching

 

I replaced mine this weekend by cutting the window cowl lots of people slam this method but to me it worked fine.I made the cut in one piece put it back in place and taped the seams with black duct tape.The Oreily sensor (39.00) was bad out of the box they didnt have another one.One from Napa was $57.00) I had my wife go pick it up she brought it back and yep it was the exact(and i do mean exact) same sensor,But at least it did work but i still think 19 more bucks for the same thing when the stores are a block apart is pretty bad.But I couldnt have driven to another Oreilys for 19 bucks so all is good I guess.But out of box failures though rare, do occur so yes if your going to pull the intake do the relocate.

 

I've been doing a lot of reading on this forum and have decided to try the cut method because I really don't want to spend $400+ to the dealer and there is no way I'm going to attempt removing the intake on my own. I feel confident that I can do the cutout neatly and glueing it back with some epoxy shouldn't be a problem. The only one who will know the cowl has been cut is me and if I seal it up right should not pose any moisture problems. It's such a shame that a simple R&R has to be made into such a production just because it was located in such a lousy spot. Anyway that is what I love about this forum, people sharing ideas and solutions. Thank you all for taking the time to help me, I appreciate it and I'll let you know how it went!

 

Try the technique where you remove it in place, if you (or a helper) have small hands it looks quite do-able without cutting or removing the intake.

 

I did the cut method a little over a year ago.

The sender has just started to leak now. It’s still working. But I figure it’s only a matter of time before it stops working. This time I’m pulling the intake and doing the relocation along with cleaning the back of the block where the leaking oil is running all the way down to the exhaust. I’m putting in SS line and all brass fittings.

If you do the cut method it’s near impossible to clean the oil out. Plus you’re going to be doing it again sooner or later when the sender go’s again. I suggest biting the bullet now and relocate the sender. I haven’t heard anyone having to replace the sender once it’s been relocated.

 

I had my intake off recently for some other issues and decided to install the TPE relocation kit while in there. Worth doing if you have the intake off IMO.

 

Their Gen 2 version is the best one out there that I have seen.

 

On Friday, my oil pressure guage did the same thing.. I'll be taking care of this very soon and since I'm doing new OEM style valve springs I'll be doing the sensor as well.

 

You mean the kit that puts the oil pressure sensor next to the oil temp sensor by the oil filter? That's the one I installed.

 

That's it. Their first design placed the EOP sensor at the left front of the block. It would work OK but a lot of people were concerned with the whole before/after the oil filter issue, so they redesigned. The Gen 2 is MUCH better, and easier to install too.

 

Finally did the job last night and went with the cut through method and it was suprisingly pretty easy. The hardest part was removing the wipers, other than that everything else went smooth. I used an old license plate and slid it between the cowl and the hoses to prevent any hoses or wires being accidently cut by the dremel. I used a torque wrench and torqued the new sender to 15lbs, reconnected the plug and started the car. I reved the engine quite high to get the oil pressure up and checked for leaks. After I saw all was good I used "Amazing Goop" glue to reattach the panel I cut from the cowl. After it set I used more of that glue and troweled it over the seams to make it water tight. I have to say this glue is amazing, it formed a solid bond and an incredible seal around the seam that is basically invisible once dry. I bought a BWD switch from Advance Auto Parts and it has a brass base and the unit itself a little taller than the stock unit. It was about $50.00 and comes with a 1 year replacment warantee. The guy at Advance said that these were superior in quality than the aluminum base units and knows from experience that these units last for years, I hope he's right. I know some on the forum are opposed to the cut through method, I have to say it was very simple to do and you would never know it was done that way. If I never joined this forum I would never have dreamed to do this job on my own. I am an avid DIY'er when it comes to around the house stuff, but I never worked on cars to this degree before and I really appreciate the help other members gave me and the time all of you take to post ideas and solutions to common problems. I really feel a great sense of accomplishment on repairing this myself and not having to pay the dealer several hundreds of dollars. Thanks again I appreciate it!

 

Yep I put the brass one in 2 yrs ago and its still working fine......

 

In the last week or two I'm getting oil dripping off the bottom of the engine, under the clutch. The brass OPS that I bought at Advance in Sept. '08 still works electrically but I think I see oil around it. Tomorrow I'm gonna remove the wiper tray and take off the already-made hole cover plate to take a better look. In the mean time, right before I go to bed tonight, I'm going to say a prayer that I don't have a bad rear main seal. We can supposedly send a man to the Moon but can't make a reliable OPS. Even at $50 a whack. Somebody's got a gravy train. Think?