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Oil pressure sending unit question

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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 03:28 AM
  #21  
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Heck, I think I can pop the intake manifold and put it back in about an hour. So I kept mine stock and replaced the sender as stock.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 05:06 AM
  #22  
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The LS1 intake is one of the simplest intakes to remove I have ever seen. I can get it off in around 15 minutes.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 06:37 PM
  #23  
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I'm considering going with the cut the cowl method, anyone have any photos they can post of this method?
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Mark C5
If you do the relocation you solve the problem for good. You get the sensor out of a hot spot and if it does ever go out again all you have to do is pull a fuel rail cover and replace, 5 minute job.

Here's what I used to replace/relocate my sensor:

From Summit Racing

Autometer adapter ATM-2268
Earls fitting 982303ERL
Russel line RUS-658080
Russel fitting RUS-660410

From Lowes

Brass fitting 1/4 male to 1/8 female
Brass fitting 1/4 to 1/4 female

From Gene Culley gmpartshouse.com

Buick sensor 12584940

The finished product:



I pulled the intake and did the relocate. While I was in there I also insured my Knock Sensors and Harness were not rusted and sealed them with RTV. Total was a about a 3 hour job start to finish. First time for me to pull the manifold, took my time.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 10:55 PM
  #25  
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From: Waipahu Hawaii
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Originally Posted by TNX ZORA
In the last week or two I'm getting oil dripping off the bottom of the engine, under the clutch. The brass OPS that I bought at Advance in Sept. '08 still works electrically but I think I see oil around it. Tomorrow I'm gonna remove the wiper tray and take off the already-made hole cover plate to take a better look. In the mean time, right before I go to bed tonight, I'm going to say a prayer that I don't have a bad rear main seal. We can supposedly send a man to the Moon but can't make a reliable OPS. Even at $50 a whack. Somebody's got a gravy train. Think?
I had a similar problem...cept my sender was no workie. Here is what it looked like after I got it out:



I had oil all over the back of the motor and under the clutch.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 10:26 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Mark C5
If you do the relocation you solve the problem for good. You get the sensor out of a hot spot and if it does ever go out again all you have to do is pull a fuel rail cover and replace, 5 minute job.

Here's what I used to replace/relocate my sensor:

From Summit Racing

Autometer adapter ATM-2268
Earls fitting 982303ERL
Russel line RUS-658080
Russel fitting RUS-660410

From Lowes

Brass fitting 1/4 male to 1/8 female
Brass fitting 1/4 to 1/4 female

From Gene Culley gmpartshouse.com

Buick sensor 12584940

The finished product:

I was searching the forums yesterday for some ideas on relocating the oil pressure sensor on my 2001 Corvette. I found a post somewhere that uses these same parts and it had several photos and a step by step list of instructions for assembly. Did you post that info or do you know where I can find it? I forgot to bookmark it...duh to me.

Last edited by 3sc; Dec 28, 2010 at 10:34 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old May 10, 2011 | 03:07 AM
  #27  
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From: South O.C. RSM/MV CA
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Originally Posted by 3sc
I was searching the forums yesterday for some ideas on relocating the oil pressure sensor on my 2001 Corvette. I found a post somewhere that uses these same parts and it had several photos and a step by step list of instructions for assembly. Did you post that info or do you know where I can find it? I forgot to bookmark it...duh to me.
I almost did this too but then the local shop only charged 220.00 and had it done in less then an hour. That was over a year ago & no issues since. Plus it's cheaper then the relocation kit and so far so good. maybe next time if it fails again but will see.
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