Over Heating Problem
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 233
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
What does an electric fan have to do with the shaft of the water pump being metal? dgrant3830's post doesn't imply any mechanical fan. READ IT CAREFULLY. The shaft has a pulley on one end and the impeller (blades as he called them) of the waterpump on the other (inside) end. I would agree that the shaft is highly unlikely to fail.
If the OP has access to a pressure tester it should take all of 10 minutes to see if the system is holding pressure. Short of that, replacing the cap is cheap and may do the trick but I personally hate wallet diagnostics.
Last edited by Cratecruncher; Dec 3, 2010 at 12:52 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Springfield VA
Sounds like the same issue I was having. Mine was bouncy on temp for months. But it would only bounce 20 degrees. Didn't notice it much till I was in traffic and it was 95 degrees outside. A good way to tell if your pump is going out is to remove your thermostat and let it flow without restriction. This will be hard since we all know that the thermo is built into the housing. But it's not impossible. With free flowing fluid you will be able to "test" the pump to see if it's working properly.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Oldvetter: Thank You, no offense taken. I was indeed referring to the internal water pump shaft as you surmised. I'm concerned for the OP in that he's still getting air in the coolant and yet the burping doesn't seem to have stopped it, but should have by now and all of his efforts. He's replaced the thermostat already, cleaned the debris and replaced the coolant yet he's still overheating. So, either the fans aren't running when they should be or he's got head gasket issues. Fans are easy to test, turn on the HVAC and look at the fans...the right one is easy to see but the left is more difficult. If they are both found to be running, then its time to run over to a local NAPA and buy the exhaust gas test kit for the coolant ($45). If its positive for exhaust gasses in the coolant then he needs to understand what caused it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Oldvetter: Thank You, no offense taken. I was indeed referring to the internal water pump shaft as you surmised. I'm concerned for the OP in that he's still getting air in the coolant and yet the burping doesn't seem to have stopped it, but should have by now and all of his efforts. He's replaced the thermostat already, cleaned the debris and replaced the coolant yet he's still overheating. So, either the fans aren't running when they should be or he's got head gasket issues. Fans are easy to test, turn on the HVAC and look at the fans...the right one is easy to see but the left is more difficult. If they are both found to be running, then its time to run over to a local NAPA and buy the exhaust gas test kit for the coolant ($45). If its positive for exhaust gasses in the coolant then he needs to understand what caused it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Over Heating
I tried everything to not have to change the water pump. Nothing worked so I pulled the water pump. I found it was leaking from the weep hole near the shaft. This caused the pump to suck air which makes the pump cavitate, therefore it overheats.
I decided it was to late in the day to work on it anymore as many of my tools are packed and also my trouble lite is packed for my move to the Phoenix area. Thank god I did not pack the wine opener!
Thanks to all who gave me the great information, this is clearly the best Corvette Forum going!
I decided it was to late in the day to work on it anymore as many of my tools are packed and also my trouble lite is packed for my move to the Phoenix area. Thank god I did not pack the wine opener!
Thanks to all who gave me the great information, this is clearly the best Corvette Forum going!
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
It's not a bad idea to change it and much will be lost with the water pump change anyway.
My research indicated the muddy brown and thickening when exposed to air occurred more because of the additive tablets that GM used to include in the DEXCOOL back in the '80s and '90s.
My research indicated the muddy brown and thickening when exposed to air occurred more because of the additive tablets that GM used to include in the DEXCOOL back in the '80s and '90s.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Over Heating
On Saturday morning I replaced the waterpump, pretty easy job actually. It runs now at 192 - 194 degrees. Which I guess is normal. I put new Dexcool in when I changed the thermostat so I saved what I drainded and put it back in.
My brother told me of his friend who mixed Dexcool with regular antifreeze. It clogged up his engine and radiator had to take it to the stealership to pull the motor down and clean it! Glad I did not go that!!
Thanks again to all who answered my questions.
My brother told me of his friend who mixed Dexcool with regular antifreeze. It clogged up his engine and radiator had to take it to the stealership to pull the motor down and clean it! Glad I did not go that!!
Thanks again to all who answered my questions.
