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So I pulled my codes and got 10- PCM p0128 H C, does that mean that my car is not reaching operating temperature cause I have been noticing that it takes forever for my car to warm up like it should ie oil and water close to 200 since the temps have started to drop.
I also have a lower temp stat and see it every so often. I just clear it and keep on going.
Yea that is what I did, it just caught me off guard this morning. I do not know what stat is in my car as I have only had it for a little under a year now.
Well arent the oil temp sensor and water temp sensor different because once the oil temp starts to get up the water follows it but it takes forever for the oil to even get up to 180 and the water stops at about 175 or so till the oil gets up there too.
Then you have a T-stat issue, maybe you want a stock one for the wintertime if it's your daily driver.
Is there anyway to tell if it is a 160 stat, the guy I bought it from lived in the mountains so I wouldnt think he would put a lower one in but I have no clue. And as far as I know he did not have anything done to the car besides a few recall items and he had the column lock done before the recall came out.
Take it out, put it in a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer in it and see when it opens.
Well I was kinda hoping there was another way, but Ill just see how it goes I guess to determine if I need a new one or if I can live with it.
It does kinda suck that my heat doesnt work very well for the first 10 min though
Well I was kinda hoping there was another way, but Ill just see how it goes I guess to determine if I need a new one or if I can live with it.
It does kinda suck that my heat doesnt work very well for the first 10 min though
You could buy an Infrared thermometer, as see what temp the hose is when it does open, my way is much cheaper and more precise.
How about monitoring your coolant temp while driving? You can bring it up if you push the guage button on the cluster. If it's staying around 160 degrees, then you know it has a 160 stat in it. Good luck!!!!
How about monitoring your coolant temp while driving? You can bring it up if you push the guage button on the cluster. If it's staying around 160 degrees, then you know it has a 160 stat in it. Good luck!!!!
You don't have a clue, a 160 degree stat OPENS at 160, that has little to due with the final coolant temp. Steady state is most likely around 180 in this guys case. The problem with the 160 in the winter is it opens TOO EARLY and the coolant take forever to get to steady state. You want the stat to stay closed longer to get the coolant in the block hotter so you'll get heat inside quickly when it does open.
this thing with thermostates keeps coming up. Once a thermostate opens it stays open , fully open, so long as the ambient water temp remains above the thermostate's operating temp. Its like a switch - either on, all the way on, or off, all the way off.It does not modulate the operating temp of the engine.
That being said, the opening temperature does determine, to a limited extent, how long it will take the coolant to reach its normal or desired operating temp of the coolant.
To a very large extent the final operating temp of the coolant is more dependent on factors other than the thermostate - like size of the radiator, fan speed, if engaged, internal combustion temp, water pump efficiency, ambient air temp, oil pump effecency, etc.
You could very easily control your operating temp by partially blocking cooling air flow - just look at the front of most 18 wheelers that operate in Northern climates in winter.
If you want to have the coolant come up to operating temp FASTER put in a higher temp thermostate ( ie., 180) but that new termostate, is not going to determine the final coolant operating temp unless you put in something like a 300 degree thermostate.
Yes I know it does not determine the final temp but the problem I am having is it takes forever for it to reach operating temp. It will get up to 180 if I have been driving for 20 min or more but my commute is only about 15 min so I just barely get the full power of the heat.
Yes I know it does not determine the final temp but the problem I am having is it takes forever for it to reach operating temp. It will get up to 180 if I have been driving for 20 min or more but my commute is only about 15 min so I just barely get the full power of the heat.