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I noticed oil leaking thru the bellhousing, looks like the rear main. Oreilly has 2 kinds.
National brand, rubber seal
Felpro brand, teflon
Then from GM there's a new rear cover with a seal installed. I don't have a rear seal tool, so maybe I'll have better chances just changing out the cover. What do you think?
Certainly it needs to be changed however, are you aware that you need to remove the drive-train to get to it? I mean, rear wheels, carriage assembly, differential, transmission, torque tube and finally you'll be able to get to the bell housing. Now if you are a manual transmission, the clutch as well will come out. The seal is cheap. If you are a manual, time to do the clutch at the same time unless you are really low miles and the clutch is in good shape. Consider the clutch's slave cylinder and pilot bearing at the same time.
Be sure its not an oil sender leaking down the bellhousing. If you do change it, change the rear cover gasket also. Be careful with the oil pan bolts that go into the rear cover, they're easy to strip.
Thanks, yes the drivetrain is already out. I verified it's not leaking from above, at the oil sender. I'm not sure which seal to get. Also wondering if I can tap/press in a new seal without a seal tool, or maybe better off replacing the whole rear cover.
The new style seals from the dealer are very easy to install. They are marked which way it is installed and can be seated by hand. I would not waste any money on a seal install tool or a new rear cover.
When I bought my seal from the dealer there was only one type in the system.
Thanks, that's good to know and saves me some $$$. I was surprised to find the seals in stock at Oreilly. I think the teflon type is newer and the older style is rubber. The teflon type is a few bucks more, so I assume it's better.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Chris Stewart
Thanks, that's good to know and saves me some $$$. I was surprised to find the seals in stock at Oreilly. I think the teflon type is newer and the older style is rubber. The teflon type is a few bucks more, so I assume it's better.
Fel-Pro is a high-quality, first-class, seal/gasket manufacturer. If they offer a Teflon coated version I, for one, would be very inclined to use it. They have a long history of improving upon factory gasket/seals used by all the OEMs.
I just replaced the clutch on mine via a former GM Mechanic. He had to go borrow the dealer's tool to do the seal for whatever reason...I don't know why.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by dgrant3830
I just replaced the clutch on mine via a former GM Mechanic. He had to go borrow the dealer's tool to do the seal for whatever reason...I don't know why.
If he removed the rear engine cover, he may have just wanted to be certain that the alignment was correct when he re-attached it. The alignment of the rear cover (and front cover for that matter) is critical to the oil pan bolt holes being lined up correctly as they share a couple fasteners. I would think that if he just removed the rear cover only, and did not touch the oil pan (as far as loosening, etc), that he could just re-attach it without disturbing the alignment, but maybe better safe than sorry.