Just changed my Harmonic Damper
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 57
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From: Tarrytown Georgia
Just changed my Harmonic Damper
I just have to say Thank You to all of the members who posted responses to questions about the change procedure. I spent several days looking at ALL the threads to gain as much info as possible and can say it went very well. I went with the Powerbond PB1117N which I got locally. Nice piece. 
I also changed the front seal and upgraded to an ARP bolt. I had already downloaded the service manual from the link posted here. The only real problems are listed below.
1. 14 year old floor jack crapped out . Had to get new one,low rise
2. I had to find a 18mm line wrench for the PS hose connections in a town with only the box parts houses open on sunday.
3. I had to buy a 24mm shallow socket for my impact to get enough clearance to remove old bolt.
4. That daing PS cooler will scratch/cut you every chance it gets. Recommend covering with painters tape next time.
I found out that heat is your friend when removing the bolt and the balancer. Came off without a hitch. Heat is also your friend when putting the balancer on.
I spent a lot of time contemplating holding the flywheel as my car is an A4. I finally went with the method suggested by 'Vette Phase of wrapping the belt around the balancer/idler with my own mod. Instead of wrapping the belt around the idler I had an old belt that I wrapped around the balancer and then let it hang below the crossmember thru the slot and then slid a piece of wood thru it. The wood snugged against the crossmember and it worked great. I had a mark on the new balancer to see if the torque applied on the balancer would make it slip but saw no slip. Time will tell. I don't believe the process would have went this well if it hadn't been for CF.
Now I must go clean and wash car.
I also changed the front seal and upgraded to an ARP bolt. I had already downloaded the service manual from the link posted here. The only real problems are listed below. 1. 14 year old floor jack crapped out . Had to get new one,low rise
2. I had to find a 18mm line wrench for the PS hose connections in a town with only the box parts houses open on sunday.
3. I had to buy a 24mm shallow socket for my impact to get enough clearance to remove old bolt.
4. That daing PS cooler will scratch/cut you every chance it gets. Recommend covering with painters tape next time.
I found out that heat is your friend when removing the bolt and the balancer. Came off without a hitch. Heat is also your friend when putting the balancer on.
I spent a lot of time contemplating holding the flywheel as my car is an A4. I finally went with the method suggested by 'Vette Phase of wrapping the belt around the balancer/idler with my own mod. Instead of wrapping the belt around the idler I had an old belt that I wrapped around the balancer and then let it hang below the crossmember thru the slot and then slid a piece of wood thru it. The wood snugged against the crossmember and it worked great. I had a mark on the new balancer to see if the torque applied on the balancer would make it slip but saw no slip. Time will tell. I don't believe the process would have went this well if it hadn't been for CF.
Now I must go clean and wash car.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 299
Likes: 1
From: Punta Gorda Florida
I just have to say Thank You to all of the members who posted responses to questions about the change procedure. I spent several days looking at ALL the threads to gain as much info as possible and can say it went very well. I went with the Powerbond PB1117N which I got locally. Nice piece. I also changed the front seal and upgraded to an ARP bolt. I had already downloaded the service manual from the link posted here. The only real problems are listed below.
1. 14 year old floor jack crapped out . Had to get new one,low rise
2. I had to find a 18mm line wrench for the PS hose connections in a town with only the box parts houses open on sunday.
3. I had to buy a 24mm shallow socket for my impact to get enough clearance to remove old bolt.
4. That daing PS cooler will scratch/cut you every chance it gets. Recommend covering with painters tape next time.
I found out that heat is your friend when removing the bolt and the balancer. Came off without a hitch. Heat is also your friend when putting the balancer on.
I spent a lot of time contemplating holding the flywheel as my car is an A4. I finally went with the method suggested by 'Vette Phase of wrapping the belt around the balancer/idler with my own mod. Instead of wrapping the belt around the idler I had an old belt that I wrapped around the balancer and then let it hang below the crossmember thru the slot and then slid a piece of wood thru it. The wood snugged against the crossmember and it worked great. I had a mark on the new balancer to see if the torque applied on the balancer would make it slip but saw no slip. Time will tell. I don't believe the process would have went this well if it hadn't been for CF. Now I must go clean and wash car.
I also changed the front seal and upgraded to an ARP bolt. I had already downloaded the service manual from the link posted here. The only real problems are listed below. 1. 14 year old floor jack crapped out . Had to get new one,low rise
2. I had to find a 18mm line wrench for the PS hose connections in a town with only the box parts houses open on sunday.
3. I had to buy a 24mm shallow socket for my impact to get enough clearance to remove old bolt.
4. That daing PS cooler will scratch/cut you every chance it gets. Recommend covering with painters tape next time.
I found out that heat is your friend when removing the bolt and the balancer. Came off without a hitch. Heat is also your friend when putting the balancer on.
I spent a lot of time contemplating holding the flywheel as my car is an A4. I finally went with the method suggested by 'Vette Phase of wrapping the belt around the balancer/idler with my own mod. Instead of wrapping the belt around the idler I had an old belt that I wrapped around the balancer and then let it hang below the crossmember thru the slot and then slid a piece of wood thru it. The wood snugged against the crossmember and it worked great. I had a mark on the new balancer to see if the torque applied on the balancer would make it slip but saw no slip. Time will tell. I don't believe the process would have went this well if it hadn't been for CF.
Now I must go clean and wash car.can you give me the thread by 'Vette Phase ??
Last edited by GeneT; Dec 21, 2010 at 10:02 AM. Reason: add comment
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 57
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From: Tarrytown Georgia
I did have to remove the steering rack. After lossening the crossmember bolts per manual I wedged a screwdriver at the front left bolt and spread the opening just enough to get the rack out of the left wheelwell. Went in the same way. Be careful that the rubber isolator does not roll with you when reinstalling the rack. This is my first try at posting a link so here it goes.[URL="http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/2099881-great-way-to-hold-balancer-while-removing-bolt.html"]. Where the idler is at is where I let the belt hang down and stuck a piece of wood thru it. Worked very well. I hope this helps.
