i know there are tech posts about this. i just could not find it in the search. could someone please tell me where it is located? thanks.

 

If the window won't go down, try using your fist as a hammer on the top edge of the window, while pushing the down switch. If still nothing, check the fuses. Still nothing, listen for the relay in the door control module for a click when you push the down button. Remove the door panel and gain access to the motor. You need to find out if power is getting to it or not. I've got a schematic on disk for the '99's but you didn't state what year your's is although the wiring is probably the same for the doors.

 

it is an '03. the relay clicks.

 

I just went through this crap with my car. My relay would click too. After removing the interior trim from the door there is a large speaker assembly that needs to be removed to get access to the motor. Once that's out of the way you can reach in and feel the metal case of the window motor. If the motor is just hung up from friction it'll be warm from the DCM sending power. The motor doesn't have any internal lubrication and gets stiff with age especially if you don't use it often (passenger side).

I took my regulator/motor assembly out (most thorough way) and lubricated everything with grease and it worked great. Another member (who first discovered this problem btw) said he was able to remove the metal motor cover with the regulator on the car by removing 4 torx screws holding it on. The magnets in the cover will try to resist as the cover is removed. He pulled the cover off and sprayed electrical contact cleaner in the motor, replaced the cover, and its worked fine ever since. While the cover is off I'd reccomend putting a bit of bearing grease in the bushing at the back of the case too.

If you are using the window motor a lot during this process, you'll want to start the car occasionally to top up the battery. That motor drinks a lot of juice! I'm doing work on my car right now in this area so let me know what you discover.

 

I had this happen about 3 months ago. The window would go down a little sometimes, sometimes not at all. When I took off the door panel and sound deadner sheet I noticed that one of the cables was unravelling and sticking in the pulley. I had to replace the whole regulator assembly.

 

Yeah that's another problem with these P-O-S Brose regulators. The white plastic spring guides break allowing slack in the cables. They fray from all the jerking around and eventually the cable comes off one of the pulleys. It sucks having to spend $200-400 because of a 50 cent part!

These C5 regulators are junk.

 

yesterday my window magically worked but won't today. it will work once every few months. when it gets warmer out i will pull off the door panel and check the motor. thanks all.

 

Mine did the same thing. I bet I have taken it apart 6 times took the motor apart cleaned it and it will work a day or so then stop. I can take it apart hit the motor and it will work another couple of days. I finally went ahead and ordered a couple of the cheap aftermarket regulators. I mean if I have to replace it every couple of months I might as well buy the cheap one's. If I thought the OEM would last i would spring for them but they won't

 

Mine are almost 10 years old and working fine. I "work" the windows at least 6 times per week.

 

I have had this prob. before. The window would work for awhile then not. [pass. side] One of the theories from the forum is that the motor jams in the up position . & if you leave the window slightly cracked it wont jam. So when mine started working I started leaving it about 1/16 - 1/8" cracked down & it has worked ever since! going on 2 years now! & it doesn`t even leak when I wash the car! Mine is an `03 Z06. Hope this helps . P. S. You could hear the click when pushing the button.

 

I had the same exact problem, window stuck up and the relay clicking. I even resorted to changing out the door module, but that did nothing.

The fix was to change out the battery. Ever since I put in a new battery over a year ago the window goes up and down with no hesistation.

These cars are extremely voltage sensitive.

Just my $.02

Good luck

 

I put in a brand new GM regulator assembly, and a few weeks later it stuck. Since there is no limit switch and the motor just runs until it stalls, I think the drive assembly just gets jammed.
I have also been bumping the glass down about 1/16th inch to unload the drive gears, and mine have been working ever since then.

If you hit the down and up buttons quickly enough you can hear the motor move and the glass barely moves.

 

IMO the C5 regulators are too lightweight for the amount of punishment they must take. I've taken both of mine apart after they failed and tried to rebuild one.

From what I've seen the gears are fairly well lubricated when assembled but the motor is bone dry. The armature rides on a bushing at each end of the shaft. The bushings don't appear to have any lubrication and when combined with brush friction they can get sticky if they sit for a while.

I agree with others that a problem with them is they don't have limit switches to cut power. The motor runs until the window clamps crash to a stop putting a lot of wear and tear on many parts. There are coil springs on each side the gear case where the cables emerge. These are supposed to cushion the crash. Unfortunately once the window stops the spring is left compressed solid and the geartrain and cable are left in a state of tension.

If your regulator still guides the window down without jerking and cable screech you can try lubricating the armature bushings.

The best way, I've found, is to remove the assembly from the door and disassemble the geartrain. First remove the metal spool cover and lift the spool out noting the direction and relative positions of the cables. next remove the three remaining screws to separate the gearcase halves and lift out the spur gear. Remove the four fasteners holding the metal motorcover on and then the armature and brush ring can be withdrawn as an assembly. Now you can work some grease into both armature bushings. When reassembling make sure the cables are rewound onto the spool exactly as they were removed. I used the window clamps at the top of their travel as a reference each time.

If your regulators are making a jerking or screeching sound when the windows begin to move they are basically toast. The jerking is caused by slack in the cable. The slack in both of mine occurred as a result of one of the white plastic spring guides breaking and threading it's way onto the cable sheath effectively shortening it from the cables viewpoint. Mine both failed on the "window up" side of the gearcase lending weight to other poster's suggestions to relieve tension in the assembly after raising the window. I surmised the problem was a design issue and didn't want to waste $400 on more crappy regulators. I tried to rebuild one. I turned new spring guides from aluminum copying the dimensions of the plastic pieces. I had to replace the cable in order to get the new guides past the cable crimps. After all that it jammed after three cycles. Damn! I'm not sure if the jamming was caused by the stiffness of the new cable I used or if the plastic spool was too mangled from using the regulator after it had broken (the spool has thin plastic ribs to guide the cable as it winds onto the spool). Either way I plan to buy two new GM assemblies, lubricate the motors and never use my window regulators except in dire emergencies. IMO, they too will eventually fail.