Fellas,
I pulled the Parking Break yesterday, I had normal tension as it racheted up but half way the tension was lost and now when I pull the handle theres nothing. Before the brakes would hold but now its 'limp' when I pull the handle for lack of better words. Has this happen to anyone else? Looking for best guesses to start...up front with the handle or the rear with shoes?

 

i just bought my first corvette and my brake is the same way (limp) i thought maybe the cable was in need if adjustment or something. can anyone help me? or us for that matter

 

Star adjuster inside the rear drum need asjusting, you have to remove the rear rotors-there is a small drum brake in the middle.

 

From Bill CThe adjuster on the E Brake handle is ONLY used to keep tension on the cables. The adjustment is on the brake shoe. Theres a toothed wheel that needs to be "MANUALLY" adjusted. Theres ZERO auto adjusters on a C6 or C6.

You have to pull the wheel, remove the caliper and bracket assy and then the rotor. Adjust the shoes so there a very slight drag on the drum when you reinstallit. WARNING! If you get the drum too tight, you will NOT get it off again until the brake shoes wear down further!:

Park Brake Adjustment
Tools Required
J 21177-A Drum to Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge


Important
Park brake adjustment is not necessary after replacing the park brake lever or park brake cables. The park brake cables are tensioned automatically by cycling the park brake lever three times.


Apply and fully release the parking brake three times.
Verify that the parking brake lever releases completely.
Turn ON the ignition. Verify that the red BRAKE warning indicator lamp is off.
Turn OFF the ignition.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.




Important
Do not operate the park brake lever with the rear disc brake rotor removed.


Remove the rear disc brake rotors. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement - Rear in Disc Brakes.



Place the inside measurement contacts of the J 21177-A at the widest point of the drum portion of the brake rotor (1).
Tighten the set screw on the tool in order to ensure the proper measurement when removing the tool from the drum.



Position the outside measurement contacts of the J 21177-A over the park brake shoe (1) at the widest point.

Important
If the gap between the adjuster nut and the adjuster screw exceeds 5 mm (0.25 in) during the adjustment procedure, the park brake shoe must be replaced.


Adjust the park brake shoe-to-drum clearance by rotating the adjustment nut on the park brake actuator. Specification
0.38 mm (0.015 in)

Install the rear brake rotors. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement - Rear in Disc Brakes.
Install the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Apply and release the park brake lever three times .
Apply the park brake lever. Inspect the rotation of the rear wheels:
The wheels should not rotate forward.
The wheels should drag or not rotate rearward.
If the rear tire and wheel assemblies rotate forward or do not exhibit drag rearward, repeat the adjustment procedure.
Release the parking lever. Verify that the wheels rotate freely
Lower the vehicle

 

C5' parking brakes don't self adjust for beans. Part of my oil change is taking the extra slack out of the parking brake cable. With the actuator handle all the way down I adjust the shoes until I can just fit the rotor over them with no rubbing.

The OP's description however, might indicate a broken cable somewhere in the system. There are three cables: main, right, and left. They come together at a point just above the transmission. I'd suggest a quick inspection while the rear is up in the air before doing anything to the adjusters.

 

I was afraid someone was going to say that. I really hope I can fix it without bringing the rear out of the car...again. I just put a tranny in it back in sept myself. Can I get to that cable from the top underneath the center console?

 

Before starting to worry I'd confirm the cables are all good. I was just under my car doing a transmission fill and noticed all three cables can be seen for inspection where they intersect near the top of the transmission. With the actuator handle fully raised you should be able to check the tension on all three cables probing with a long handled screw driver. If one is broken it should come out of the sleeve with no resistance. (Disclaimer: Ive never had a broken cable on a C5 so this is speculation based on experience with other cars. Manual says main cable can be replaced w/out dropping drivetrain. It runs along the rh side of torque tube tunnel.)

 

I am also having issue with my parking brake. I was told by a Corvette specialist that the whole unit must be replaced (I havent checked, just had it looked at while in for paint work.

I was advised that the part number for the unit is 10323590 and given the following response.

10323590, the part number you requested has been discontinued and is no longer available from GM. You maybe able to locate one from an aftermarket source, or salvage yard.

10323579 is a valid GM part number and is listed as a lever.

I was told that the difference may be that the first part number is AE Shale and the second is black (havent been able to confirm)

I found a price range of 188 to 310 dollars or so. Has anyone else had this issue and actually replaced the whole unit ?



1 each LH E-brake backing plate 12455802-LH $28.96 Photo
1 each RH E-brake backing plate 12455803-RH $28.96 Photo
1 each LH Parking brake lever boot protector at spindle 12530694-LH $23.14 Photo
1 each RH Parking brake lever boot protector at spindle 12530695-RH $23.14 Photo
2 each Parking brake kit (includes shoes, and misc. parts) 12530691 $198.68 Photo
1 each LH e-brake cable to knuckle brackets 10262949-LH $4.65 Photo
1 each RH e-brake cable to knuckle brackets 10262950-RH $4.65 Photo
4 each Bolts for e-brake cable to knuckle brackets (M10 x 1.5mm x 70mm) 11516356 $3.88 Photo
1 each RH E-brake cable 10299165-RH $46.73 Photo
1 each LH E-brake cable 10409250-LH $46.73 Photo
1 each E-brake handle (includes attached front cable with equalizer bar, black hand grip and boot) 10323579 $246.88 Photo
1 each E-brake cable connection bracket (connects front cable to both rear cables) 10255639 $5.86 Photo

 

I agree! From the description, I think you need to start here as suggested.

 

thanks for the input guys, i'll get the car up in the air this weekend. i'll be sure to let you know what I find. Knowing my luck, it won't be easy...lol

 

Hmm, that would sound typical of an OEM making the owner purchase an entire assembly when all that is broken is a $.75 piece of cable! If your handy, the orange home center caries 1/16th and 1/8 braided steel cable for $.25-.35 per foot. I just bought some for my window regulators (both of which failed in less than 50k miles).

 

Checking this situation this weekend.............thanks

 

Could you describe or post the process for repairing the window regulators ?

 

Hmm, about that.... I'll start a new thread if I can ever get it to work.