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Has anyone figured out how to relocate the pass. side AIR valve? Possible using a set up from an LS1 F-body? They were mounted by the exhaust manifolds on both sides. Why they didn't do that on the C5 is I have read the "old" posts and the "why relocate it?" opinions, but also noticed that it always seems to be the right bank that goes bad. ( maybe because it's difficult to change and the other isn't) I really don't want to remove the intake and all the other connections associated with that or buy new gaskets, etc. But once I do I don't ever want to have to do it again for a simple, inexpensive part. (most likely the gaskets cost a lot more than the valve) I don't see a reason why it wasn't mounted by the exhaust, any ideas on that?
Thanks
I removed mine as well but if I were to have kept it my plan was to relocate the valve. Simply moving closer to the driver's side would also work since I believe it is threaded onto the pipe. You could make up a new piece to add to the end near the rubber connections.
Thats right, I can turn off that code with HP Tuner, right?
My tuner did it for me but it is turn off the codes and show the test as complete. An incomplete on the test cycle can cause issues during the emissions check.
Depends on yout state smog rules---IF they only check visually for the AIR system---( Like here in Calif) what I do is to 1st delete all the AIR related codes and enablers from the tune---Then you can purchase AIR block off plates that go rite on the exhaust manifold between the manifold and AIR plumbing--They just look like thick gaskets and no one will know they are blocked off--All the AIR sytem will remain intact --it just doesn't work---Also i found that i had to unplug the elect pigtail on the pump itself as it would randomly kick on---As far as emissions out the tail-pipe NO affect--still passes even strict calif #'s on the rollers--- trying to correct via re-locating is difficult and a pain--
Depends on yout state smog rules---IF they only check visually for the AIR system---( Like here in Calif) what I do is to 1st delete all the AIR related codes and enablers from the tune---Then you can purchase AIR block off plates that go rite on the exhaust manifold between the manifold and AIR plumbing--They just look like thick gaskets and no one will know they are blocked off--All the AIR sytem will remain intact --it just doesn't work---Also i found that i had to unplug the elect pigtail on the pump itself as it would randomly kick on---As far as emissions out the tail-pipe NO affect--still passes even strict calif #'s on the rollers--- trying to correct via re-locating is difficult and a pain--
Cool! Thanks to all of you.
We don't have visual inspection, but I like the block off idea.
Check out this thread. Relocating it is not hard at all. Did mine two years ago, not a problem since then, and if it does go bad, ten minute job. Disregard the dusty engine.
---------------------------------------- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...eck-valve.html
Check out this thread. Relocating it is not hard at all. Did mine two years ago, not a problem since then, and if it does go bad, ten minute job. Disregard the dusty engine.
---------------------------------------- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...eck-valve.html
What was that, a left side valve and tube on the right side exhaust? I still think the LS1 Fbody might be a direct bolt on. Going to check a guys at work.
A pic of my Camaro SS that I had when I bought the C5. Can't really see the valves very well.