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Steering Removal w/ Cam swap?

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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 10:20 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
My goodness.
Where did you pick up that War Club , BC??
It works OUTSTANDING! I can remove and install the damper my self and theres ZERO slippage. Its amazing what $5 at a yard sale will get ya. It was all rusty and I sand blasted it and had a buddy powder coat it.

BC
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #42  
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Good luck with the install
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:38 PM
  #43  
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well? how is everything coming along? sorry if there's a new thread about your install, i havent searched it. can you give us some more good first hand tips on your install? was it easy to line up the cam and crank gear dots or did it take some time? what did you use to hold up the lifters? and how was it to re install the crank pulley? i cant see this being a hard issue like others have stated?...
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #44  
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Everything is Good. I was just paranoid about the removal of the steering rack, it wasn't as bad as I thought. A phone call to Bill C. really got me on the right path. The change out of the cam went very good. I spun that baby a number of times and used the 5/16" alum rods, like LS1HowTo, I started to pull the cam out and I thought that I felt something so I used pen magnets on the back 2 cylinders on both sides. Just slid the pen magnets in and you could feel it latch on to the lifter. After that the cam came right out and the new one slid right in. The valve spring change when well also. I bought the Proform dual spring compressor. It worked good. I bought the short hose kit from Summit to get the compressed air in the cylinder and it was a little hard getting it threaded into the plug hole but not that bad. I damaged the first two valve seals that I tried to install. I bought the Comp Cam seal setting tool, it's a bunch of crap. A 12mm deep socket works the best. I have the timing gear & chain on and the alignment is good. This weekend I will try to finish up the re-install of everything. Here's a couple of pics.





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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #45  
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Default Rack Removal

Ok, I've got a stupid question. How in the world did you guys who have pulled the rack by youself w/o pulling the components off of the front of the engine get the gear to verticle? I've been pushing and prodding under my car for 4 hours and I can't seem to get the rack to turn to verticle. I'm sure there is a trick and I'm missing it.
Thanks
Rick
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Rick Perkins
Ok, I've got a stupid question. How in the world did you guys who have pulled the rack by youself w/o pulling the components off of the front of the engine get the gear to verticle? I've been pushing and prodding under my car for 4 hours and I can't seem to get the rack to turn to verticle. I'm sure there is a trick and I'm missing it.
Thanks
Rick


You don't need to get it vertical, Rick. Just over the tabs, and toward the front bumper, and then shove it over towards the passenger side. Unless you really want to remove it, that's all you need to do.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #47  
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Just lift the rack up till the flanges clear the tabs, then slid the rack to the passenger side till you clear the tabs. Then you can roll the rack till you rotate the steering head under the ABS unit then you can slid it more to the passenger side till you can lower the drivers side down. I took mine out the drivers side.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #48  
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Look at the picture that Bill posted in post #13. You can see the rack, Bill left it in the car, I took mine completely out of the car.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:35 PM
  #49  
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Default rack removal

Thanks guys. I'll mess with it tomorrow night when it's 15 degrees here in North Texas. Just an FYI. The only reason I'm doing this is because my balancer bolt came loose and the balancer moved out about 1/4". I called the shop who installed my new engine and they said they used the old bolt. Labor warranty is out too. Got a new bolt and balancer just to be on the safe side. If you want things done right I guess you do have to do them yourself....
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Paul 75 L82
Just lift the rack up till the flanges clear the tabs, then slid the rack to the passenger side till you clear the tabs. Then you can roll the rack till you rotate the steering head under the ABS unit then you can slid it more to the passenger side till you can lower the drivers side down. I took mine out the drivers side.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 01:08 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Two. Don't trust LS1 Howto, and get a service manual.
Lucky Ive seen your posts on here quite a bit and you seldom have anything constructive to say. Most all of your remarks are critical of someones ideas or information. Would be just as helpful to give supportive or constructive criticism rather than pointing out a fellow vetter's ignorance or misinformation. Thats what this forum is about, to help and assist.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 01:34 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by racetchr
Lucky Ive seen your posts on here quite a bit and you seldom have anything constructive to say.
Not constructive?

Perhaps it was not constructive, showing you were the VSS connector was....when you could not find it:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...nsor-plug.html


Or providing you a link, when you could not figure out how to get that pesky MAP sensor off the intake:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...to-remove.html

....or when you had a question about knock sensor replacement:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-only-1-a.html


Now that I know, that my posts rub you the wrong way, I will steer clear of your threads in the future.
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