oil question after rebuild
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 8
From: Arma Ks
oil question after rebuild
so i've had an on going debate with a couple people the last few days. i just did bearings, rings, rod bolts, heads, and cam to my 2001 z06. i used 10-30 conventional rotella for my break in. i havent even changed it yet cuz i havent put the miles on yet. but majority of the local LS guys say to run rotella 10-30 even after break in due to higher valve spring pressure and for the zinc it has in it for protection.
and then i have another buddy questioning it and saying to run synthetic. like the zr1, z06, gt500's, they all require synthetic oil from the factory and hold up just fine..
so im here to get the opinion of the forum members.. im kinda torn between the two and not sure which to go with. i wouldnt mind running rotella 10-30 the whole time. cheaper, i know it has good protection. but i've read that conventional doesnt like heat. which i dont let the engine get very hot. 160 stat and turned the fans on earlier.
thanks !
and then i have another buddy questioning it and saying to run synthetic. like the zr1, z06, gt500's, they all require synthetic oil from the factory and hold up just fine..
so im here to get the opinion of the forum members.. im kinda torn between the two and not sure which to go with. i wouldnt mind running rotella 10-30 the whole time. cheaper, i know it has good protection. but i've read that conventional doesnt like heat. which i dont let the engine get very hot. 160 stat and turned the fans on earlier.
thanks !
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 653
Likes: 0
What clearance did you measure at the rod and main bearings? That has much to do with the break-in process.
I've always stuck with a high-zinc conventional oil for the first two oil changes following a rebuild...one change at 500mi, another at 3000mi. Then switch to synthetic.
I differ from the advice you're getting on the viscosity, I use 5W-30 but I set my rod/main clearances on the tight end of the tolerance range.
I've always stuck with a high-zinc conventional oil for the first two oil changes following a rebuild...one change at 500mi, another at 3000mi. Then switch to synthetic.
I differ from the advice you're getting on the viscosity, I use 5W-30 but I set my rod/main clearances on the tight end of the tolerance range.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver Washington
Not so much an answer as an observation. I installed a Lingenfelter engine this fall and ran conventional oil per their recommendation for the first three oil changes and switched to Mobile 1 10/30 at 3,000 miles also at their recommendation. The motor ran fine the whole time but would occasionally surge at idle, when I switched to the synthetic the surging immediately stopped and hasn't been back. The motor also started running about 15 degrees cooler with the synthetic.
