C5 Z06 Tranny question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 283
Likes: 181
From: New Boston
2024 C7 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified\
C5 Z06 Tranny question
First, let me say this. I am sure this has been asked but I searched for over an hour and couldn't find anything.
I do NOT have to change my clutch or slave but I do have to pull the tranny out because I believe I have a bad synchro (often times have problem going into second).
Do I have to pull the whole drivetrain with torque tube and all to take out the tranny or can can just pull the rear carrier out and disconnect the torque tube?
Thanks in advance and sorry for what I believe is a repeat question.
I do NOT have to change my clutch or slave but I do have to pull the tranny out because I believe I have a bad synchro (often times have problem going into second).
Do I have to pull the whole drivetrain with torque tube and all to take out the tranny or can can just pull the rear carrier out and disconnect the torque tube?
Thanks in advance and sorry for what I believe is a repeat question.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
First, let me say this. I am sure this has been asked but I searched for over an hour and couldn't find anything.
I do NOT have to change my clutch or slave but I do have to pull the tranny out because I believe I have a bad synchro (often times have problem going into second).
Do I have to pull the whole drivetrain with torque tube and all to take out the tranny or can can just pull the rear carrier out and disconnect the torque tube?
Thanks in advance and sorry for what I believe is a repeat question.
I do NOT have to change my clutch or slave but I do have to pull the tranny out because I believe I have a bad synchro (often times have problem going into second).
Do I have to pull the whole drivetrain with torque tube and all to take out the tranny or can can just pull the rear carrier out and disconnect the torque tube?
Thanks in advance and sorry for what I believe is a repeat question.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 283
Likes: 181
From: New Boston
2024 C7 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified\
Ok, thank you very much. I am about ready to do that. Spent a little time this afternoon getting all the preliminary stuff done assuming I was going to pull it. But then I started to second guess myself.
Appreciate the reply!
Dan
Appreciate the reply!
Dan
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 26,679
Likes: 17
From: This vette goes to 11 Milford MA
St. Jude Donor '03-'05
When I swapped my trans, I was doing a clutch anyway so I had the torque tube out. You could probably leave the torque tube in but no matter what, make sure the engine is supported so you don't let it hit the firewall and crack all the stuff of the back.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
You could leave the torque tube. You'd have to disconnect the shifter rod from the shifter base so you can pull it out. Either way is about the same work but I've found that it's much easier to get the torque tube back into the clutch by itself.
Peter
Peter
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,966
Likes: 22
From: Frederick Maryland
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
This is the easiest way since I have done this job more than anyone I know.
-Remove the shifter and remove the 30 Torx holding the shifter base from the shifter rod.
-Remove the parking brake lines/ABS sensor harness both sides
-Remove the 2 18mm bolts holding the upper control arms/both sides
-Remove the 2 13mm shock bolts/both sides
-Remove 4 21mm rear cradle nuts (make sure to do this by hand and NOT power tools)
-Remove the 2 15mm caliper bolts on both sides and hang the calipers so they don't hang by the brake lines
-Remove the axle shafts on both sides
-Lower the rear cradle
-The TT will rest on the belly pan so it doesn't need to be supported
-You can remove the harness connectors to the trans
-Remove 8 13mm bolts from trans to TT bell
-You can remove the trans/diff together
If you follow the steps above, you don't need to remove the exaust, TT or anything else.
-Remove the shifter and remove the 30 Torx holding the shifter base from the shifter rod.
-Remove the parking brake lines/ABS sensor harness both sides
-Remove the 2 18mm bolts holding the upper control arms/both sides
-Remove the 2 13mm shock bolts/both sides
-Remove 4 21mm rear cradle nuts (make sure to do this by hand and NOT power tools)
-Remove the 2 15mm caliper bolts on both sides and hang the calipers so they don't hang by the brake lines
-Remove the axle shafts on both sides
-Lower the rear cradle
-The TT will rest on the belly pan so it doesn't need to be supported
-You can remove the harness connectors to the trans
-Remove 8 13mm bolts from trans to TT bell
-You can remove the trans/diff together
If you follow the steps above, you don't need to remove the exaust, TT or anything else.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
This is the easiest way since I have done this job more than anyone I know.
-Remove the shifter and remove the 30 Torx holding the shifter base from the shifter rod.
-Remove the parking brake lines/ABS sensor harness both sides
-Remove the 2 18mm bolts holding the upper control arms/both sides
-Remove the 2 13mm shock bolts/both sides
-Remove 4 21mm rear cradle nuts (make sure to do this by hand and NOT power tools)
-Remove the 2 15mm caliper bolts on both sides and hang the calipers so they don't hang by the brake lines
-Remove the axle shafts on both sides
-Lower the rear cradle
-The TT will rest on the belly pan so it doesn't need to be supported
-You can remove the harness connectors to the trans
-Remove 8 13mm bolts from trans to TT bell
-You can remove the trans/diff together
If you follow the steps above, you don't need to remove the exaust, TT or anything else.
-Remove the shifter and remove the 30 Torx holding the shifter base from the shifter rod.
-Remove the parking brake lines/ABS sensor harness both sides
-Remove the 2 18mm bolts holding the upper control arms/both sides
-Remove the 2 13mm shock bolts/both sides
-Remove 4 21mm rear cradle nuts (make sure to do this by hand and NOT power tools)
-Remove the 2 15mm caliper bolts on both sides and hang the calipers so they don't hang by the brake lines
-Remove the axle shafts on both sides
-Lower the rear cradle
-The TT will rest on the belly pan so it doesn't need to be supported
-You can remove the harness connectors to the trans
-Remove 8 13mm bolts from trans to TT bell
-You can remove the trans/diff together
If you follow the steps above, you don't need to remove the exaust, TT or anything else.
A couple of years ago, I asked on the tech forum in regards to switching out the diff .
I had recieved several posts recommending pulling t/tube & all the rest in one pull. That it would be easier that way.
I appreciated the advise but I decided to just pull the cradle & then the diff.
