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so after replacing my belt several times, and having it squeak allot, i tried to fix it again today and noticed my balancer wobbling today. my car is an 04 with just under 20K miles and doesnt get driven much at all...seems odd that its having a problem seperating when mine has never been off the car.
chances are the rubber portion is letting go. Might as well upgrade to a quality balancer. we have a few options available if you're interested. you can give us a call at the shop and we will be happy to set you up and walk you thru the removal and replacement. 573-552-4219
chances are the rubber portion is letting go. Might as well upgrade to a quality balancer. we have a few options available if you're interested. you can give us a call at the shop and we will be happy to set you up and walk you thru the removal and replacement. 573-552-4219
if I go to all the trouble and expense to remove the balancer, a cam will probably go in....
doesnt the steering rack have to come out to replace it?
yes the steering rack does need to come out so you are thinking right by going ahead with a cam. Might as well throw in a oil pump and ls2 timing chain to.
yes the steering rack does need to come out so you are thinking right by going ahead with a cam. Might as well throw in a oil pump and ls2 timing chain to.
goes without saying.... this aint my first rodeo....
So did I, but it appears that a few folks had a rough weekend......
.....Right. Because it is just too time consuming, for one to actually read in the thread they are posting in, where the question was already answered.
.....Right. Because it is just too time consuming, for one to actually read in the thread they are posting in, where the question was already answered.
I guess you didn't like the transmission oil discussion either, did you???
I've read through this and many other threads regarding HB wobble trying to decide if this is a problem on my stock '00.
It may halp others to look at the following video of C6 wobble (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRboo9a0RnY). At 20 seconds in, you can see the inner ring of the HB is steady but the outer (ribbed) ring is wobbling. Maybe it's been that way since day 1 on this HB, but at least it helps you ID what's going on.
In my case, the belt jumped off when I punched it getting on a freeway. My gator belt is in good shape, but the recently-replaced tensioner feels a bit weak (spring-wise). I ordered a new one.
Don't take everything you read here as gospel. The rubber pulley ring going bad and causing a wobble isn't really going to "cause a lot of damage", slipping on the crank will. I've been wrenching a long time and NEVER seen an OEM balancer on an unmodified car fail. If you are doing some work that necessitates a balancer removal, by all means replace it with a new one.
That being said - a pinned under driven pulley is a nice mod.
Dude, for being 10K post guy...you're giving some bad advice in my opinion.
First the MOST COMMON issue for OEM balancers IS the separation of the inner and outer rings.
Second, if it does separate @ 1000+ revolutions per MINUTE! It's going to do some damage, the steering rack is RIGHT IN FRONT OF IT.
Third, how many here are "unmodified"?? Not many by my count.
The pure "harmonics" of it and all PROBABLY won't cause much if any damage but if and when it does finally completely separate..look out.
so after replacing my belt several times, and having it squeak allot, i tried to fix it again today and noticed my balancer wobbling today. my car is an 04 with just under 20K miles and doesnt get driven much at all...seems odd that its having a problem seperating when mine has never been off the car.
Whether it's ever been removed from the car doesn't make a difference. Most of the ones that have failed or are wobbling have never been removed.
I just finished replacing my factory installed balancer on a 51k '99 model C5. It was "kinda" wobbly and was causing belt noise. After reading and seeing pictures of separations I decided to replace mine with the Powerbond OE replacement. Upon removal I inspected the thin rubber bead that separates the main body from the pulley ring and found about five large cracks that reminded me of sidewall dry rot on an old tire. Would it have lasted another year? Maybe...who knows. I too think it's age that's killing them, not cycles. Although high HP mods may aggravate it.
Also, I may get flamed for this but a harmonic balancer replacement on an LS engine is hard AND complicated with a lot of expensive downside if you screw up. Before doing the job yourself I think you should think about your experience and skills. If replacing belts and brake pads is all you've done you might want to get help - with a warranty! If, on the other hand, you can change a clutch over a weekend and have a very high initial success rate go for it. Just my $0.02!
Last edited by Cratecruncher; Feb 15, 2011 at 02:11 PM.
I am probably due for the HB change, as mine has a wobble at idle.
Looking at a ATI balancer and a pinning kit. What is the advantage of using a under sized pulley. Thanks, Mark
Theoretically by underdriving the alternator and power steering pump, you'll use less HP, and have more power to accelerate the car. I say theoretically, because you'll probably not notice the difference on the street, and a car such as a Corvette, with all of it's electrical bells and whistles, most likely needs all the electrical power the alternator can provide....
Theoretically by underdriving the alternator and power steering pump, you'll use less HP, and have more power to accelerate the car. I say theoretically, because you'll probably not notice the difference on the street, and a car such as a Corvette, with all of it's electrical bells and whistles, most likely needs all the electrical power the alternator can provide....
Thanks for the info. I have added electronics already, I think I will stay with the stock drive size. Thanks again. Mark
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