This.
Considering ZO6 spring conversion
Thread Starter
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,533
Likes: 881
From: Republic of Texas
Considering ZO6 spring conversion
After hearing about Kale's successful (and rather easy) ZO6 rear spring conversion, I'm thinking about doing this for my car. As it sits, my car has C6Z shocks, is lowered on stock bolts and has C5Z sway bars.
question 1: would I benefit from a front/rear spring swap or just the front or rear?
question 2: does anyone have a tutorial on this?
thanks.
question 1: would I benefit from a front/rear spring swap or just the front or rear?
question 2: does anyone have a tutorial on this?
thanks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 89
From: Indy IN
If you are going to do it, absolutely and without question, change both.
If you change just the front the car will push like a pig. If you change just the rear it will have oversteer like an old VW. Neither one is a good choice. Balanced handling comes from matching the roll stiffness at both ends of the car. If you mismatch one end you will get weird handling and then will be back to trying to fix it with other bandaids.
Same thing with sway bars, if you are going to stiffen one, stiffen the other at the same time to keep the car balanced.
If you change just the front the car will push like a pig. If you change just the rear it will have oversteer like an old VW. Neither one is a good choice. Balanced handling comes from matching the roll stiffness at both ends of the car. If you mismatch one end you will get weird handling and then will be back to trying to fix it with other bandaids.
Same thing with sway bars, if you are going to stiffen one, stiffen the other at the same time to keep the car balanced.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 8
From: Cockeysville Maryland
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Daytona Jam 1 Veteran
Some guys on here say there are short cuts and easier ways but the link below is how I will attempt this upgrade.
Good luck with the swap either way!
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=20
Good luck with the swap either way!
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=20
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 348
Likes: 6
From: Las vegas Nevada
Suspension work
Hi Gang,
After reading the process of replacing the springs I was wondering if you have to get a wheel alignment?
I just finished replacing my Clutch Slave which involves pulling the entire driveline that includes the rear suspension and I’m planning on taking the car into the Dealership for the alignment. Is the alignment required after the suspension work?
Thanks,
After reading the process of replacing the springs I was wondering if you have to get a wheel alignment?
I just finished replacing my Clutch Slave which involves pulling the entire driveline that includes the rear suspension and I’m planning on taking the car into the Dealership for the alignment. Is the alignment required after the suspension work?
Thanks,
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Hi Gang,
After reading the process of replacing the springs I was wondering if you have to get a wheel alignment?
I just finished replacing my Clutch Slave which involves pulling the entire driveline that includes the rear suspension and I’m planning on taking the car into the Dealership for the alignment. Is the alignment required after the suspension work?
Thanks,
After reading the process of replacing the springs I was wondering if you have to get a wheel alignment?
I just finished replacing my Clutch Slave which involves pulling the entire driveline that includes the rear suspension and I’m planning on taking the car into the Dealership for the alignment. Is the alignment required after the suspension work?
Thanks,
I would recommend getting a 4-wheel alignment.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 66
From: Middletown CT
Some guys on here say there are short cuts and easier ways but the link below is how I will attempt this upgrade.
Good luck with the swap either way!
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=20
Good luck with the swap either way!
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=20
Thread Starter
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,533
Likes: 881
From: Republic of Texas
Thanks for the info guys
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
HTH
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 889
From: South Western Ontario
I think you've seen this since I think this is what Kale did. This is the easy way to change the front spring out;
Get the car in the air. You likely need the car to be raised close to as high as 2-ton jack-stands will go.
Remove the drivers side wheel.
Jack up the spring in the Y of the lower a-arm to lift the spring off the arm. Use a block of wood or something similar as a spacer to reach in there with the jack.
Mark and remove the 2 lower a-arm bolts.
Remove the 4 bolts and 2 spring straps from the crossmember.
Pull the a-arm out and lower the end of the spring so you get the spring to pass by the lower a-arm.
Do the reverse to install the new one.
You mark the lower a-arm bolts because they adjust the camber and caster on the front. Just mark across the washers to the crossmember and make sure they go back in the same way so the alignment doesn't get changed. An awl can make a sharp mark which then can be used to line them back up again.
The other way requires taking a whole bunch of the suspension apart on both sides.
Peter
Get the car in the air. You likely need the car to be raised close to as high as 2-ton jack-stands will go.
Remove the drivers side wheel.
Jack up the spring in the Y of the lower a-arm to lift the spring off the arm. Use a block of wood or something similar as a spacer to reach in there with the jack.
Mark and remove the 2 lower a-arm bolts.
Remove the 4 bolts and 2 spring straps from the crossmember.
Pull the a-arm out and lower the end of the spring so you get the spring to pass by the lower a-arm.
Do the reverse to install the new one.
You mark the lower a-arm bolts because they adjust the camber and caster on the front. Just mark across the washers to the crossmember and make sure they go back in the same way so the alignment doesn't get changed. An awl can make a sharp mark which then can be used to line them back up again.
The other way requires taking a whole bunch of the suspension apart on both sides.
Peter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 889
From: South Western Ontario
Peter
