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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 06:54 PM
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I got the car started and running, but the only way it will start is by jumping the starter. Unbelievable.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilsZ51
That's it, LOL. I appreciate the help thus far, but I am not sure what I could do to make the grounds better besides drill and grind new spots for them next to the stock ground locations. I still can't get the car to start by turning the key.
I gave you some things to check, and you have the schematics.....it's in your hands.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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I did some further investigation, LOL missing the bowl. But I was researching and it mentioned something about the clutch pedal relay so I bypassed that and nothing happened. I then moved over to the TDR and when I jumped it, with no key in the ignition, me hanging upside down in the passenger side, the car began to turn over. Does this mean that this could be the culprit? Thanks Lucky.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilsZ51
I did some further investigation, LOL missing the bowl. But I was researching and it mentioned something about the clutch pedal relay so I bypassed that and nothing happened. I then moved over to the TDR and when I jumped it, with no key in the ignition, me hanging upside down in the passenger side, the car began to turn over. Does this mean that this could be the culprit? Thanks Lucky.
Okay. I have taken the time to provide you with key voltage checks, in an effort to reach a logical conclusion, but you just seem to be jumping around. It's really hard to help, when you do not answer the questions asked, and follow the advice given. I'm going to watch the game.....
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 09:35 PM
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The missing gray wire concerns me some as that might keep the alternator from charging the car, but not keep it from starting.
Jumping across the TDR relay proves continuity from the relay to the starter S terminal. You can also check from the key to the relay to prove continuity from the ignition switch to the relay. If you have proven that, you only seem to have the BCM left in the equation. From the schematic, it seems that you turn the key. If the clutch switch is closed, your start signal continues to the coil side of the TDR. If the BCM provides a ground to the other side of the coil, it will close the relay contacts, forwarding the signal to the S terminal on the starter.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
So either the TDR is not energizing, or you have a voltage/ground problem. No offense, but that setup you've got there is a mess, so who knows what's going on.

You can check the following in the IP fuse box for battery voltage:

1) Fuse #50, Fuse #52.
2) Fuse #14 for 12 volts with the key to start(clutch does not need to be depressed).
3) Also, listen for the TDR, and do voltage checks there as well.

Sorry I haven't answered back with your suggestions yet; I get excited when I think I figured something out and forget to do things sometimes. I did check the fuses that you recommended and they were good. I will check the voltage in the AM. As far as listening to the TDR, when I put the key in the ignition and turn it to acc, I do hear some kind of clicking action over on the pass side, but when I turn the the key, no new noises occur; no clicking noises coming from the pass side.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
The missing gray wire concerns me some as that might keep the alternator from charging the car, but not keep it from starting.
Jumping across the TDR relay proves continuity from the relay to the starter S terminal. You can also check from the key to the relay to prove continuity from the ignition switch to the relay. If you have proven that, you only seem to have the BCM left in the equation. From the schematic, it seems that you turn the key. If the clutch switch is closed, your start signal continues to the coil side of the TDR. If the BCM provides a ground to the other side of the coil, it will close the relay contacts, forwarding the signal to the S terminal on the starter.
The gray wire isn't missing, it has just been cut and spliced back together. And I will try to find out how to check the ignition switch to the relay.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilsZ51
Sorry I haven't answered back with your suggestions yet; I get excited when I think I figured something out and forget to do things sometimes. I did check the fuses that you recommended and they were good. I will check the voltage in the AM. As far as listening to the TDR, when I put the key in the ignition and turn it to acc, I do hear some kind of clicking action over on the pass side, but when I turn the the key, no new noises occur; no clicking noises coming from the pass side.
I checked the voltage on fuse 14 AND TDR. I also checked the radio fuse just to make sure I was doing it right, and that had voltage. I checked fuse 14 and turned the car over and it read 0. I then did the TDR and it that was showing the 12v. Hmmm...
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 11:47 PM
  #29  
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Ok. You've got 4 wires on the TD relay. Look at the pins on the relay. There will be a diagram on the side or bottom indicating which pins are the contacts and which are the coil. They are diagonal from each other so you can't get the relay backwards. For the contacts, you'll find 12v on one pin and when you jumper across diagonally, the starter will engage. Those are your contacts. The other 2 wires are the coil wires and one will show a ground when the BCM sends a signal after being satisfied your not trying to steal the car. The remaining pin is the one that will be hot while the key is in the start position and the clutch switch is closed. Let us know what you find.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 12:39 AM
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Just spent an hour on the phone with Bill Curlee, and I must say, I actually have an idea of what I am looking at now. We ran through some tests over the phone and came up with a few ideas. Messed with the TDR and the yellow wire on there reads zero, as well as fuse 14. Thanks again, Bill. Also, thanks for your service.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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Thanks for all the help, guys. Ended up taking it to a dealer, and apparently there were a bunch of wires under the dash that were tore up; not sure how the heck that happened. Car sounds mean!!! Thanks again...
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