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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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Default Z won't turn over

Well, just got the car back together after installing the HP tt kit and now it won’t turn over. When I turn the key on everything comes on, but the car won’t turn over(nothing happens when I turn the key ,had 13 volts). I did re-mount the battery to the trunk, and thought I may have had a bad ground, so I tried hooking the battery up the way it was before, and it made no difference; still won’t turn over. I did have to take the starter off, and I swear I put the wires back the way they were: one on the little one, 2 on the power, and then the one that runs to itself.

I do have some engine codes, there is a BCS code (B0432), and then there is the SDM U1040. I think that one is loss of comm with TCS. Also, the TCS section says loss of COMM. Need help guys.


I even tried to run the car off another charged battery but didn’t work too well. I am stumped.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 09:32 PM
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Use your test light and follow the yellow brick road. Make sure you have voltage coming out of the ignition switch on the 10ga yellow wire during start. Make sure if it's an automatic that you're in park or neutral and if it's a manual, close the clutch switch and make sure you have voltage coming and going from there. Then make sure you have voltage at the starter. If not follow it back.

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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 09:58 PM
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You should have four wires going to the starter. On the large post:

1) Red
2) Rust
3) Gray

On the small post "S", the purple wire. Also, make sure you have connected both the small ground wire, and large battery cable ground at G106, above the starter. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...e-grounds.html



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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 11:41 PM
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There are only 2 wires that go to the one all the way to the left(red and rust), right?
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilsZ51
There are only 2 wires that go to the one all the way to the left(red and rust), right?
Acording to Lucky's post should be 3 red, rust, and gray
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 12:15 AM
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I guess I will have to try and track down a gray one, but I only see 2 on mine. I hope that is what the problem is.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 01:22 PM
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I doubt the gray wire not being on that terminal, will cause a no crank issue. Not sure how you have the block grounded now, with the battery relocated. Make sure you have 12 volts to the purple wire, when the clutch pedal is depressed, and key is in the start position.

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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 02:25 PM
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I messed around with it for a while today, and didn't come up with much. I took the ground that used to be grounded to the battery, and drilled, cleaned the paint off, and grounded it next to the other one on the frame(by battery). I did try and run a wire directly to the starter from the battery and 1 out of the 6 times the starter turned over. All the wires are on the starter correctly.

Would U1040, TCS no comm, HVAC no com, and B0432 have something to do with the car not turning over? I am so fed up with this crap, I am contemplating taking it to the dealer tomorrow so they can track down the electrical gremlin. I really need some help guys. Leaving for the military in 2 weeks. Would like to get it figured out before I left.

I did check all fuses and they were all good. I was thinking maybe it was a bad relay somewhere, but don't know how to check for a bad relay.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilsZ51
I messed around with it for a while today, and didn't come up with much. I took the ground that used to be grounded to the battery, and drilled, cleaned the paint off, and grounded it next to the other one on the frame(by battery). I did try and run a wire directly to the starter from the battery and 1 out of the 6 times the starter turned over. All the wires are on the starter correctly.
So it does not sound like the main black cable from the battery is attached to the block.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:00 PM
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Yes, it still still connected to the block. There is a red and black wire that that run from the motor somewhere, that used to connect to the battery. I just took the old battery wires(the ones that used to connect to the old battery) and one is connected to the + battery in the trunk and the old negative is now grounded to the frame instead of the battery. I will take a pic.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:13 PM
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This pic is just showing the +from the trunk connecting to the old + where the battery used to be. It tees off and one goes to the starter and they other goes to the fuse box.





Second pic is showing the negatives grounded to the frame. You see it come from the engine bay and go to the frame. The two other little grounds that are connected there is well come from the fuse box under hood, and the other comes from a wire loom.

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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:36 PM
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Ok, so you a relying on the frame alone. Have you checked the resistance value? As I asked before, do you have 12 volts to the purple wire on the starter, with the clutch depressed, and key to start?

Also, did you inspect G106?

Last edited by lucky131969; Feb 6, 2011 at 03:38 PM.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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I am going to check and see what they resistance is at the purple wire. Is the frame alone not sufficient? The battery in the trunk is connected to the frame as well.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilsZ51
I am going to check and see what they resistance is at the purple wire. Is the frame alone not sufficient? The battery in the trunk is connected to the frame as well.
You are not checking resistance at the purple wire, you are checking voltage!

I suggesting checking resistance to ground and continuity, for what you have rigged up.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:46 PM
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Doh! that is what I meant to say.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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Well, I checked the voltag at the battery, it said 11.44. I then tested the red connection on the starter and said 11.44 as well. I then placed it on the purple wire terminal and had the wife press the clutch in and try to start it and it remained at 0.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilsZ51
Well, I checked the voltag at the battery, it said 11.44. I then tested the red connection on the starter and said 11.44 as well. I then placed it on the purple wire terminal and had the wife press the clutch in and try to start it and it remained at 0.
So either the TDR is not energizing, or you have a voltage/ground problem. No offense, but that setup you've got there is a mess, so who knows what's going on.

You can check the following in the IP fuse box for battery voltage:

1) Fuse #50, Fuse #52.
2) Fuse #14 for 12 volts with the key to start(clutch does not need to be depressed).
3) Also, listen for the TDR, and do voltage checks there as well.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 05:57 PM
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Well, I did a little more testing and I can get the car to turn over just fine when I jump the starter. I take the + from battery and I connect it to little terminal on the starter and it turns over.

I know the grounds look pretty sloppy, but the only thing I did differently was connect the ground that was on the battery to where all the other grounds were.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilsZ51
Well, I did a little more testing and I can get the car to turn over just fine when I jump the starter. I take the + from battery and I connect it to little terminal on the starter and it turns over.

I know the grounds look pretty sloppy, but the only thing I did differently was connect the ground that was on the battery to where all the other grounds were.
Good luck sir.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 06:10 PM
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That's it, LOL. I appreciate the help thus far, but I am not sure what I could do to make the grounds better besides drill and grind new spots for them next to the stock ground locations. I still can't get the car to start by turning the key.
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