What is envolved? Is this something for DIY? any special tolls and/or equipment needed or recommended? Thanks

 

If you do not have a power bleeder then you need two people to do it. One will have to push the brake pedal to the floor and the other will have to unscrew the bleeder screw half a turn and let the fluid out and close it back up before the other person lets off the pedal. You will need to start with the RR then progress to the LR, RF, and finally LF if you have your abs module up front. If it is in the rear Im pretty sure it would be RF, LF, RR, and LR but Im not too sure on that.

 

Buy yourself a set (4) speedbleeders. They make the job simple.

 

Did a brake fluid change/speed bleeder install last weekend,took about an hour-I'm pretty sure it had never been done,because the crap that came out(especially the rears) looked more like espresso than brake fluid.

First,I removed all the old fluid from the MC with a turkey baster(except for that little bit in the front section that you can't get to),and filled it with fresh stuff,then
Jacked the rear end up,pumped about a pint or so through each rear caliper till it ran clear,then pulled it forward onto ramps and did the same to the fronts.
(don't let the MC go dry while doing this,or you get to start over)

While I had the rear wheels off the ground,I also started the car,put it in second gear,let the clutch out,and let the traction control kick on and off for a few minutes,just in case there was some cruddy fluid hiding in the ABS module,then I l bled the rears again,but the fluid was still clear as a bell,so I think you could skip this step,unless you just want to exercise the pump motor on the Module(which I don't think is a bad idea)

Turkey Baster,2 Qts of brake fluid,a 10mm wrench to get the old bleeders out,7/16" wrench to get the speed bleeders in is all you should need to do the job

Any auto parts store that can get Dorman parts can get the speed bleeders for you (part#12706),for about $10.00 a pair

 

^ Heck the fluid in my dads 00 was pretty nasty and its only got 9k on it now. Im going to hate to see what mine looks like when I finally get around to it being that it has 101 now and most likely has never been done.

 

I would advise you to NOT push the brake pedal to the floor! If you are going to bleed the brakes this way, place a wood block or something similar under the brake pedal so that its travel is close to what it normally is. Allowing the pedal to extend further means that the master cylinder rod also extends further into its bore. After many miles of use, the bore may have a ridge that can damage the rod seal when it extends past the ridge. I've had this happen with other cars and I will never bleed brakes by pressing the pedal to the floor, again.

 

Interesting thought...I've never done it that way, I just get my wife to sit in the car, and pump the pedal. However, I run through this procedure EVERY spring, therefore, the pedal goes to the floor once a year normally...

 

Ill keep that in mind when I do it to my car, I dont think my dad will have that problem on his though.

 

If you are not in a rush remove the fluid in the master and fill it with fresh then open all bleeders at once letting them drain into 4 containers. You can get some fish tank tubing so there is no mess. Just don't let the master go dry keep adding as it drains till it is all clean coming out.. Then tighten them all up. You could also get a Motive power bleeder to force it out when you pressurize the master then open one at a time. You can wax or clean the car while it is happening usually few hours.