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Had a 3.42 rear diff rebuilt with 3.90 gears and did the r/r over the weekend. Dont know if it matters but diff is assembly lubed but dry, and has been sitting my my cold garage about 3 months. Before installing the unit I took my of my axels and put it in while the diff sat on the ground to see how easy it turned and it DIDNT. Unit was very tight. It moves but not easy. Once in the care I grabbed a rotor to try and rotate it and again very tight. Is this what I should expect or should I take it out and send it back for inspection?
So from your post I gather that the diff is now installed and the car ready to run. If so, at this point you may as well put the proper lube/amount in and take the car for a SHORT drive. Go easy, listen for any bad noises, then come home and put the back of the car up. Does the diff then feel hot? How much resistance does the axle now have to turning? I'd guess the axle/wheel will turn with less effort after the short break-in/lube-up.
Did you speak with the re-builder about your concerns?
I wish it were that easy. Car has a blown motor and I was putting in the new diff so I could get it on a trailer and over to the shop doing the motor swap. Builder told me it was tight but he "felt" it was perfect. I just wanted a general feedback as to how tight a rebuilt diff actually is. I could be overconcerned but I am afraid not.
tigh as in gear setup ex backlash,heel/toe. something is wrong , you should be able to turn your diff by hand with the trans in n. .sounds like the backlash is way to tight. just to let you know it takes some special tools to properly setup a c5 diff most of which are kent moore. best wish's
I had my cousin who is a GM tech rebuild it for me. He has done a couple others over the years for me but I think he just went to tight. I am going to have him come over in the next few days and take a look. I hate bothering him with it, but after some thought and your guys advice, I hate the R/R more. HAHA Thanks I will let you know what I come up with.
A diff should have between .006-.012 backlash and the preload on the pinion bearing should be set at 25 INCH pounds, thats INCH pounds.
If you set it up like that you should have no problems
tigh as in gear setup ex backlash,heel/toe. something is wrong , you should be able to turn your diff by hand with the trans in n. .sounds like the backlash is way to tight. just to let you know it takes some special tools to properly setup a c5 diff most of which are kent moore. best wish's
Sounds like too much pinion preload , which will quickly destroy the pinion bearings.
A diff should have between .006-.012 backlash and the preload on the pinion bearing should be set at 25 INCH pounds, thats INCH pounds.
If you set it up like that you should have no problems
This is a Corvette diff and not your run of the mill GM diff. The .006-.012 backlash is correct but the pinion preload is incorrect. The pinion carrier is setup with the Kent Moore J42168 to set the initial shim. Then the new gear is pressed into the carrier and the spaner nut tighted to 370 ft lbs. YES! that's 370 ft lbs!
Teddy, all the diffs I set up do turn by hand (at room temp). Make sure the diff is at room temp and try to spin it. If it doesn't, I would say it's little on the tight side.
Thanks guys for all the info. Like I orginally stated he has done a couple others for me with no issues. I aware of the special tooling involved and know he has them at the dealer where he rebuilds them for me. I will get the thing warmed up and see if I can turn it by hand. Honestly though, I think he simply has it to tight. back to r/r
Originally Posted by ragtopws6
This is a Corvette diff and not your run of the mill GM diff. The .006-.012 backlash is correct but the pinion preload is incorrect. The pinion carrier is setup with the Kent Moore J42168 to set the initial shim. Then the new gear is pressed into the carrier and the spaner nut tighted to 370 ft lbs. YES! that's 370 ft lbs!
Teddy, all the diffs I set up do turn by hand (at room temp). Make sure the diff is at room temp and try to spin it. If it doesn't, I would say it's little on the tight side.
This is a Corvette diff and not your run of the mill GM diff. The .006-.012 backlash is correct but the pinion preload is incorrect. The pinion carrier is setup with the Kent Moore J42168 to set the initial shim. Then the new gear is pressed into the carrier and the spaner nut tighted to 370 ft lbs. YES! that's 370 ft lbs!
Teddy, all the diffs I set up do turn by hand (at room temp). Make sure the diff is at room temp and try to spin it. If it doesn't, I would say it's little on the tight side.
Hey Rick, your right on the pinion nut torque. Good eye, my bad.
I'm not sure its the pinion preload thats too high here. if buddy rebuilt it, he may not have even removed the pinion bearings. Setting their preload requires changing the spacer until the proper bearing drag is achieved...not even sure different thickness pinion spacers are available. My guess is he f'd up the side bearing preload. Real easy to do that. I'd loosen the RH cover bolts and see if it frees up!
I'm not sure its the pinion preload thats too high here. if buddy rebuilt it, he may not have even removed the pinion bearings. Setting their preload requires changing the spacer until the proper bearing drag is achieved...not even sure different thickness pinion spacers are available. My guess is he f'd up the side bearing preload. Real easy to do that. I'd loosen the RH cover bolts and see if it frees up!
Haha...You're the last person I want to argue with about differentials, Rick. What I meant was this: If the tightness was coming from tight BEARINGS(too much preload), then its PROBABLY the side bearings that got screwed up. As you know, the RH side shims need to be measured with a J tool to come up with the right preload. There are no calculations or shim measurements for setting pinion bearing preload. Its pretty much factory set. If the old pinion bearings were left in it, the preload would not have changed. The tightness could also be coming from the GEARS, in which case the pinion housing shims could be wrong, or the side shims on the left could be wrong.
Haha...You're the last person I want to argue with about differentials, Rick. What I meant was this: If the tightness was coming from tight BEARINGS(too much preload), then its PROBABLY the side bearings that got screwed up. As you know, the RH side shims need to be measured with a J tool to come up with the right preload. There are no calculations or shim measurements for setting pinion bearing preload. Its pretty much factory set. If the old pinion bearings were left in it, the preload would not have changed. The tightness could also be coming from the GEARS, in which case the pinion housing shims could be wrong, or the side shims on the left could be wrong.