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Kooks are by far the biggest pain in the *** headers to install on ANY car. Even on the F-bodies, the motor mounts have to be disconnected on the drivers side to get them in as to where Pacesetters literally slip right in.
Kooks makes a nice product, but until something is done w/ the primary design that doesn't require half the car to be take apart/jacked up/moved over with a pry bar, I will not recommend these headers to anyone. AR and LG headers literally "fall" in the engine bay.
Kooks are by far the biggest pain in the *** headers to install on ANY car. Even on the F-bodies, the motor mounts have to be disconnected on the drivers side to get them in as to where Pacesetters literally slip right in.
Kooks makes a nice product, but until something is done w/ the primary design that doesn't require half the car to be take apart/jacked up/moved over with a pry bar, I will not recommend these headers to anyone. AR and LG headers literally "fall" in the engine bay.
AMEN. And on a street car, you are not ever going to see a difference in a header, as far as HP/TQ, if they are long tube and equal size pipe. NONE.
Now on really modified engine you might.
WOW! maybe its a C5 thing, maybe since it was a private sale the OP had the wrong/year/style for his C5.
I have Kooks 1 and 7/8 to 2" stepped headers on my C6Z. I can literally take it form sitting flat on the ground to up on jack stands and headers off in 30-40minutes by myself ( I got really good at it after doing it 3-4 times swapping head gaskets out that turned into a dropped liner).
The only KOOKS fitment issue I've had was when the dealer
got my previous LG stuff mixed up with the newer Kooks gear on my mtor R&R and crammed the G X-pipe over the Kooks/ B&B system
That took a large vise, torch and many of these to get off.
Once it was all Kooks, everything has been a breeze.
My only regret is that I didn't get them coated before the first install, but they are now..
Well, we got them on and the car is running. Had to cut off the AIR TUBES and welded off, so that they would fit. Maybe some of you love the install and would do it again and again and again, but I will pass. I think there are alternatives for LTs that have a MUCH better fitment and install design.
Isn't it in the Kooks directions somewhere that you need to use a Hickory Pick handle to pry the motor over? That's what I had to do. I even labled it "Kooks Header Install Tool". And in the spirit of the Corvette Tax I'm selling these for $499.
WOW! maybe its a C5 thing, maybe since it was a private sale the OP had the wrong/year/style for his C5.
I have Kooks 1 and 7/8 to 2" stepped headers on my C6Z. I can literally take it form sitting flat on the ground to up on jack stands and headers off in 30-40minutes by myself ( I got really good at it after doing it 3-4 times swapping head gaskets out that turned into a dropped liner).
The only KOOKS fitment issue I've had was when the dealer
got my previous LG stuff mixed up with the newer Kooks gear on my mtor R&R and crammed the G X-pipe over the Kooks/ B&B system
That took a large vise, torch and many of these to get off.
Once it was all Kooks, everything has been a breeze.
My only regret is that I didn't get them coated before the first install, but they are now..
is that with air wrenches. there is no way you can, I am calling....
is that with air wrenches. there is no way you can, I am calling....
Seriously,
I got to the point where I could take the car from sitting on the floor to sitting on the floor to swap head gaskets in 4.5 hrs. ( thats with REALLY being **** about cleaning everything before it goes back together1)
I thought originally it was faulty cometic gaskets. It turned out to be a dropped dartin liner.
Side Note: I once watched Louis and the boys at LG pull a C6Z motor out of a car and have it torn down to the short block in 2.5 hrs...no kidding.
My car is a C6Z and I did this 4 times before I figured it was the block (including the first swap for the LPE top end on my resleaved 454 L7)
BTW, no air tools. My dad still give sme crap about that...
I got to the point where I could take the car from sitting on the floor to sitting on the floor to swap head gaskets in 4.5 hrs. ( thats with REALLY being **** about cleaning everything before it goes back together1)
I thought originally it was faulty cometic gaskets. It turned out to be a dropped dartin liner.
Side Note: I once watched Louis and the boys at LG pull a C6Z motor out of a car and have it torn down to the short block in 2.5 hrs...no kidding.
My car is a C6Z and I did this 4 times before I figured it was the block (including the first swap for the LPE top end on my resleaved 454 L7)
BTW, no air tools. My dad still give sme crap about that...
I am with CHUCKTOWN2012...I am almost willing to pay the airfare to Hawaii to watch you do it.
Now I know the tricks, I am certain that if I ever did these again (which I will not), I could do it faster. BTW, did you remove/move the alternator bracket? That alone took over 30 minutes to do (damn bottom bolt).
Anyway, cruised in the car with Vinnie last night to DATA LOG and it feels pretty good. Not as good as mine, but pretty good!
I am with CHUCKTOWN2012...I am almost willing to pay the airfare to Hawaii to watch you do it.
Now I know the tricks, I am certain that if I ever did these again (which I will not), I could do it faster. BTW, did you remove/move the alternator bracket? That alone took over 30 minutes to do (damn bottom bolt).
Anyway, cruised in the car with Vinnie last night to DATA LOG and it feels pretty good. Not as good as mine, but pretty good!
C6Z here, that may be the deciding difference.
Ony things I need to do when R&R my Kooks stepped headers..
lossen the starter bundle wiring (don't remove starter), pull the dry sump lines off the pan and plug them ( royal purple is 8 a quart!), undo (2) o2 sensors, remove (4) 1/2" header to y-pipe bolts, plugs/wires and headers bolts. whalla, they drop right down.
Ony things I need to do when R&R my Kooks stepped headers..
lossen the starter bundle wiring (don't remove starter), pull the dry sump lines off the pan and plug them ( royal purple is 8 a quart!), undo (2) o2 sensors, remove (4) 1/2" header to y-pipe bolts, plugs/wires and headers bolts. whalla, they drop right down.
That hard to imagine??
Glad I don't have a C5.
I did a LG setup on my buddy's C6 and it was significantly easier than doing the same setup on the C5, so that could be the very reason why it was easier. Oh well, it's on and now we all can laugh about the *** kicking we rec'd from them.
I can literally take it form sitting flat on the ground to up on jack stands and headers off in 30-40minutes by myself.
I'm still calling you on that too, even with the explanation. That's a lot to get done in 40 minutes. Or maybe you lay out all the tools and jack and stands and don't count that prep work in the 40 minutes...
I did a LG setup on my buddy's C6 and it was significantly easier than doing the same setup on the C5, so that could be the very reason why it was easier. Oh well, it's on and now we all can laugh about the *** kicking we rec'd from them.
Those SS Chrome headers where a snap to install......... just like the LG's
funny how todays LSX motor will run circles around that old school BB 427..... stock c5 vette is faster than any of the stock old school BB vettes
No sheeit? Fuel injection, better ignition, lighter valves and rods pistons etc? C5 is a different PACKAGE than a C2/C3 with BB's. Dyno for Dyno is a different story. What was the first Vette to 200mph, a 1969 ZL-1 427 Vette 205mph, and it was in a Car and Driver magazine. Took GM 40 years to even come close again
Apples and Oranges. Different topic,
But, you take an L88 427, and a LS-7, put them on the dyno, and you will see the old BB will trounce it, hell, put a ZR-1 engine up against it, and if they both have headers, no ac and a tune to accommodate for headers on both, the L88 may still have more power.