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Just installed 4.5 pulley and took the 5" pulley off the f1c procharger... looking at my wideband air:fuel drops to 10.0 at wot prior to new pulley it was 10.5... the car has 60lb inj and meth inj whats the lowest ''safely'' the AF can drop to... car has stock shortblock and internals still as well as restrictor plate... how far off will my tune be now assuming previous tune was extremely conservative ''safe to drive till I can get it retuned''???
Just installed 4.5 pulley and took the 5" pulley off the f1c procharger... looking at my wideband air:fuel drops to 10.0 at wot prior to new pulley it was 10.5... the car has 60lb inj and meth inj whats the lowest ''safely'' the AF can drop to... car has stock shortblock and internals still as well as restrictor plate... how far off will my tune be now assuming previous tune was extremely conservative ''safe to drive till I can get it retuned''???
The good news is, the AFR is on the fat (rich) side, as opposed to the lean side....which is not a good place to be, especially with a SC. I can't speak to tuning with meth, as I don't use it...and I'm kind of surprised you are, given your setup. Best to post in the FI/Nitrous section, for comments on tuning with meth.
10 is a pretty rich A/F ratio on a forced induction motor. I have kept my FI cars tuned between 11.4 -11.7 to make the most power.
Youre not going to hurt the motor, by washing the cylinder walls with excess fuel at 10.0 but you will most certainly be down on power a bit.
This is my first F/I car so I'm new to this af setup I had a 436CI stroker N/A car made 600HP... the reason for the meth is to ''stay on the safe side'' last thing I need is to have to build the 402 sooner than planned ... that's the winter 11' project
This is my first F/I car so I'm new to this af setup I had a 436CI stroker N/A car made 600HP... the reason for the meth is to ''stay on the safe side'' last thing I need is to have to build the 402 sooner than planned ... that's the winter 11' project
Amazing how many tuners differ on the use of meth. Most tuners around here don't use it, unless someone builds a high boost LS1/LS6. Whatever makes you feel comfortable......I guess.
I went from 2-3 lbs to 8-9 lbs boost today, I cant imagine +18lbs.... my supercharged cobra was running 25lbs :-) this at 2-3lbs feels stronger than it.. then again the ms4 cam helps some...
Thats because boost is not universal across different cars/setups. Its all about flow. A huge turbo/blower at 3psi can flow more than a tiny turbo/blower at 50psi
I used to love it when guys with an SRT-4 @18psi were convinced they would be faster because my Built/D1SC vette only ran at 11psi.
Most go with an AFR of about 11.5 for boosted cars. At 10 you are very safe. You are obviuosly leaving a lot of power on the table. You could also burn up your CATS at that AFR, if you are running them. Most widebands don't go lower than 10.0, you could be even richer.
No cats :P kooks LT headers bb bullets... sitting at lights around the city a/f is 15-15.7 but at times it jumps past 18 is this normal for fI cars???? I think to fix all these af issues best bet is to fallow thru with the dyno tune next week and see what comes of it...
The only A/F you need to watch is while at wide open throttle. The A/F will be all over the place while at idle or partial throttle. When you have the pedal down all the way, that is when you watch the A/F ratio.
Remember, before you hit the boost, the engine is running like any naturally aspirated engine and will have a much leaner A/F from say 13.0 - 16.0 which is normal under partial throttle.