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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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Default No Brake lights

I've read several threads on the issue and I'm still confused. Can somebody please help with a step by step process to track down the problem. I can tell you that I've checked the fuses that I thought were suspect. Tail lights, back-up, flashers, etc. I can't believe that all four bulbs would go out at the same time. Turn signals work, regular lighting and four way flashers work. The third brake light also works. I've read that the multi stalk may be suspect. But why? I would have thought the brake switch behind the pedal would be suspect. Maybe I don't have one. I haven't looked yet. Please consider that I'm a shade tree style mechcanic. Thanks to the forum I've fixed a few things on my own already.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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Has the car ever had Euro Tail Lights? Euro's have a special harness that requires you to cut the white brake wire.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrgogo
I've read several threads on the issue and I'm still confused. Can somebody please help with a step by step process to track down the problem. I can tell you that I've checked the fuses that I thought were suspect. Tail lights, back-up, flashers, etc. I can't believe that all four bulbs would go out at the same time. Turn signals work, regular lighting and four way flashers work. The third brake light also works. I've read that the multi stalk may be suspect. But why? I would have thought the brake switch behind the pedal would be suspect. Maybe I don't have one. I haven't looked yet. Please consider that I'm a shade tree style mechcanic. Thanks to the forum I've fixed a few things on my own already.
Does your car have the original tail lights, or euro? How long have you had the car i.e. is this a new problem?
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 05:48 PM
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I’m assuming that you have checked minifuse(s) 8 and 15, in the passenger footwell fusebox. As stated , if the third brake light works, fuse #8 has to be good, because it supplies 12 volts to the stop lamp switch.
That fact that the third brake light is working normally, tells you that the stop lamp switch on the pedal is good. The third brake light has a separate 12 volt output, that does not go through the MFS.
If the rear lights flash with the hazards, the MFS is not the issue.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:49 PM
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Thanks for the interest. Original tail lights. I just took a look at all four bulbs. all look good. I pulled the plastic panel under the dash to look at the switch. Well not much to see I can see that the plastic plunger does move. I'm gonna recheck the fuses #8 and #15 as reccommended. Thanks! Let you know in a few
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrgogo
Thanks for the interest. Original tail lights. I just took a look at all four bulbs. all look good. I pulled the plastic panel under the dash to look at the switch. Well not much to see I can see that the plastic plunger does move. I'm gonna recheck the fuses #8 and #15 as reccommended. Thanks! Let you know in a few
See if the lights flash with the hazards.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:59 PM
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Rechecked the fuses #8 and #15 are good. Flashers work. If it matters, I am the second owner. I don't know if the previous owner put euros on there. They were working fine until yesterday when another vetter told me that my third brake light was the only one working.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrgogo
Rechecked the fuses #8 and #15 are good. Flashers work. If it matters, I am the second owner. I don't know if the previous owner put euros on there. They were working fine until yesterday when another vetter told me that my third brake light was the only one working.
Either you have standard tail lights or euros....which one is it?
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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Standards
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrgogo
Standards
Ok. If the rear lights flash with the hazards, the path through the MFS is good, and the grounds to the rear lights are good. That means that the feed from the stop switch to the hazard switch is questionable. As already mentioned, if the car previously had euro lights, it may have a half *** repair to the stop lamp switch (white wire).




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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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Ok Mike, here is where you have to take me by the hand and guide me. I see the diagram but what does it relate to? Where do I look for these wires? Once I find them what am I looking for? In the first diagram I'm looking to see if the White wire is complete from the stop switch to the hazard swith correct? From there I'm lost. I appreciate this buddy.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrgogo
Ok Mike, here is where you have to take me by the hand and guide me. I see the diagram but what does it relate to? Where do I look for these wires? Once I find them what am I looking for? In the first diagram I'm looking to see if the White wire is complete from the stop switch to the hazard swith correct? From there I'm lost. I appreciate this buddy.
Call me. PM sent.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 09:11 PM
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Mike I reviewed the process for replacing the flasher switch. I think I can handle that. Ya know remove and replace. But before I do that I'd like to know more about the jumper method we talked about. Can you point me to a thread or link. You;ve been more than helpful.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrgogo
Mike I reviewed the process for replacing the flasher switch. I think I can handle that. Ya know remove and replace. But before I do that I'd like to know more about the jumper method we talked about. Can you point me to a thread or link. You;ve been more than helpful.
At this point, the only thing left to do, is isolate the problem...to wiring..or the hazard switch. Since you don't have a meter, you can still use a test light for this.....but you need to access the hazard switch connector. The white wire from the stop lamp switch, connects to pin H on the hazard switch. This would tell you if 12 volts is making it from the stop lamp switch(with the pedal depressed). If that is good, then you can back probe the connector, and check for 12 volts at pin J...Brown wire. If you don't get 12 volts out of the brown wire, you know the hazard switch is bad for sure.

Most guys don't go through this trouble, because the switch is a common failure(and a pain in the ***....so most figure, if you go to that much trouble..you might as well replace it in the process), but I just wanted you to be aware of the steps to isolate.

Last edited by lucky131969; Mar 12, 2011 at 01:06 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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I'm thinking the previous owner had outfitted the car with Euros and then converted them back to stock OEM lights before he sold it. If so, he had to reconnect/crimp the white brake wire and perhaps it simply came loose again.

Remove the driver's side lower knee bolster and you will be able to see the wiring harness for the rear lights. Check to see if the white wire was cut.

This is what is looks like...

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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MSG C5
I'm thinking the previous owner had outfitted the car with Euros and then converted them back to stock OEM lights before he sold it. If so, he had to reconnect/crimp the white brake wire and perhaps it simply came loose again.

Remove the driver's side lower knee bolster and you will be able to see the wiring harness for the rear lights. Check to see if the white wire was cut.

This is what is looks like...


Good call, I had him inspect that while we were on the phone.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 11:51 PM
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yes thank you. White wires appear intact. Mike by what I've read and yu input I think I'm just gonna replace the hazard flasher. Gather part tommorrow and make a Saturday project.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrgogo
yes thank you. White wires appear intact. Mike by what I've read and yu input I think I'm just gonna replace the hazard flasher. Gather part tommorrow and make a Saturday project.
Before you strip down the dash you could try applying 12V to the BRN wire of the MFS this should bring on the stop lights. If it does, which I suspect it will, then go ahead with the haxard switch.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cliff_ford
Before you strip down the dash you could try applying 12V to the BRN wire of the MFS this should bring on the stop lights. If it does, which I suspect it will, then go ahead with the haxard switch.
If the hazards flash, then the MFS to the tailights, has to be good......which includes the brown wire.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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I'm really interested in how this plays out and what's causing the issue...
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