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Engine squeek? Passenger heater issues???

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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 03:19 AM
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Default Engine squeek? Passenger heater issues???

Sorry I am new to this so this might be fun...
I have a 99 automatic. Squeeks when I rev the engine a little. Changed tensioner pulley and ac pulley.. squeek somewhat went away not 100% though. I am thinkin water pump but its fairly new and I added some lubricant to coolant and it helped somewhat. Any clues??

Also, heater is funny sometimes. I have to play with up and down to turn it on sometimes and it blows hot on driver side, ice cold on passenger side.

Any help would be appreciated!!
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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Ok, welcome to the forum! Glad you are here and as you learn, along with us, please feel free to add your thoughts to whomever's issues. Its why we are here...to help each other.

As to your squeak, does it sound like a belt squeal? If so, just get yourself a new Gatorback belt and install. Does this squeak happen with or without the AC running? I ask as it could be the AC belt which is seperate. It will not be the water pump...well, %99 chance its not in my opinion.

Pull your codes and post them. You will probably get one or more which will point to either of the HVAC actuators which probably have a cracked gear inside and will need to be replaced. One person managed to epoxy the gear back together though. Do you know how to pull the codes? If not, its easy, push and hold the Options Button and touch the Fuel button 4-5 times within 5 seconds or less. You can use the Options button to then manually go through the code areas and individual codes. Write them down and post them. We'll go from there.
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 02:31 PM
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Im not getting any codes (no engine light on). It just squeak as rpm increases. AC is off and squeak is still there... Its like a little churp that you can hear in and out. I dont know what to look at next

As for the heater issues, for those gates do we have to remove dash ??

Thanks for your help so far
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 04:24 PM
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My '98 blows cold on driver's side and hot on passenger side. Something stuck? Thanks.
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 06:47 PM
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You need to pull the codes from the DIC. It will tell you/us if there is a code from the HVAC. Yes, you can get codes from any number of systems without the CEL turning on. Cold from one side, hot from the other usually indicates either a bad actuator and there are two of them or the vacuum line to the HVAC is disconnected, cracked or broken somewhere.
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 12:58 AM
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Ok il try that on tuesday here and ill let you know. thanks for the help
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 08:34 AM
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There's some belt dressing you can spray on the serpentine belts to see if that stops the squeak. A old trick that does the same thing is to use a bar of soap. Either way, if the squeak changes or goes away, you need a belt. Otherwise, go to Harbor Freight tools and pick up a auto stethscope. Really cheap with a long metal rod for it and will help you to identify the source of the sound.
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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Might want to take a look at the harmonic balancer....see if it has the wobble.....
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 10:27 AM
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Default Engine wont shut off (115,000 miles)

Yea the harmonic balancer (bottom middle pulley?) seems to be oscillating... Is it pretty easy to replace? Ive done the tensioner and what not but not sure about that one.

!NEW PROBLEM!
Engine wont shut off with key out! I can pull key out, dash and everything shuts off but not the engine occasionally. I pulled out fuel pump fuse and the car still ran so I removed ignition switch and it shut off. Now it ran reallly really rough and then its fine but I have every light on in the dash...


Also, is there any way to sort of "reset" tire pressure monitoring? I have new tires that require higher pressures and the cpu is telling me my pressure is too high all the way around. (Msg erases when i drop psi).

Still havent looked @ heater/cooling yet but its on my list of things to do.
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 10:39 AM
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Ok, The engine not turning off with the key out. Sounds like your ignition switch is fried and needs to be taken apart and cleaned up or replaced. You really need to pull those codes and post them. Its easy to do and be prepared to write them down. Push and hold the Options Button and touch the Fuel button 4-5 times within 5 seconds. It will automatcially scroll through the codes for each of the major systems and each code will be followed by an "H" or a "C", history or current. These codes will help to figure out what's going on with your car. You can use the buttons to manually go through them and the reset button will clear them individually by selecting a code then push and hold the reset button. I suggest you reset all of them individually AFTER writing them all down. Then restart the car to see what codes come back. What is the history of this car? When did this start happening and did anything happen just before these errors? Wrecked car? Flood damaged?
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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Hopefully Bill C or Lucky will see this thread and add their expertise to your situation. They have the schematics and knowledge needed. My stuff is more general as in pointing you in a possible direction.

Yes, you can reset the TPMS system by resynching the sensors with the car. You need a strong magnet like a speaker magnet. Most tires for this car, should be around 30-32 cold psi. If you are above that when cold, when they heat up, they will exceed the limits and set off the alarms. Pressures change throughout the year and need to be looked at every couple of months and insure they are correct.

If the harmonic balancer is wobbling, you need to obtain a replacement and get ready to do that job. Special tools are needed for removal and installation. You will need to move the steering rack out of the way. If the balancer comes off, it will shear into the steering rack and causing massive damage with a pretty high cost to repair so its something that needs to be addressed soon.

Last edited by dgrant3830; Mar 25, 2011 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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The car is rebuilt from front end collision several years ago. Probably the reason for the warped pulley. I got it for what I thought was good deal but it needs paint real bad and now these other issues... Ive bought tons of rebuilds before but never had issues like this but Im in too deep and I cant sell it like this lol. Awesome...


Tires said max 44 psi and they were at about 25 so i bumped em to 40 but the ride is a little rough so ill drop it to maybe 35 or so.

Thanks for your help, Im in school so it takes me a little while to get to the big jobs ie. change harmonic balancer.

So, ignition switch can be found where do you know?
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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Well, www.gmpartshouse.com is the best around...Gene Culley there. You should disconnect the battery then remove and disassemble the ignition switch to see what's going on with it. There are probably pictures in the electrical sticky at the top of this Tech section which you should look at.
Tire pressures...normal is 30-32 psi cold
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 11:35 PM
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Alright so I finally had some time to look at her..
Im convinced the harmonic balancer is causing the squeak.. seems to be oscillating a bit? I assume that not normal.. I picked up a new one for 120 just need to find a hoist to get er in there.
I ran the codes:
ASR desired TORQUE ? I dont know what this means

1689 ?
1631 ?

I couldnt find what these two meant.. any suggestions??
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 09:41 PM
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C5 DIC Codes

P1631 Theft Deterrent System Password Incorrect

1689 was not on this list.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by FFIN90
C5 DIC Codes


1689 was not on this list.
DTC P1689 Traction Control Delivered Torque Output Circuit
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by FFIN90
C5 DIC Codes

P1631 Theft Deterrent System Password Incorrect

1689 was not on this list.
Originally Posted by lucky131969
DTC P1689 Traction Control Delivered Torque Output Circuit
Thanks for the update. Just found that list on the net, dont know how up to date it is.
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