Steering rack removal HELP
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 297
Likes: 9
From: Holiday Shores IL
I thought about that when I did mine, but the prybar worked so I didn't.
You already have the rear up and supported. I would just move the front supports to the puck locations.
Where do you plan to jack the car up to be able to jack stand it under the puck locations?
You already have the rear up and supported. I would just move the front supports to the puck locations.
Where do you plan to jack the car up to be able to jack stand it under the puck locations?
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 297
Likes: 9
From: Holiday Shores IL
I notice your car is an automatic.
How are you going to keep the crank from turning when loosening the damper bolt?
Here is a link to pictures of a tool I made from scrap around the shop I manage.
http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/a...teel/Corvette/
How are you going to keep the crank from turning when loosening the damper bolt?
Here is a link to pictures of a tool I made from scrap around the shop I manage.
http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/a...teel/Corvette/
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 5
From: Forsyth Illinois
I can put the jack back in the middle of my 2X6, between the 2 front jack stands, jack it up a bit and move the stands to the outside front rails with pucks installed.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 5
From: Forsyth Illinois
I notice your car is an automatic.
How are you going to keep the crank from turning when loosening the damper bolt?
Here is a link to pictures of a tool I made from scrap around the shop I manage.
http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/a...teel/Corvette/
How are you going to keep the crank from turning when loosening the damper bolt?
Here is a link to pictures of a tool I made from scrap around the shop I manage.
http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/a...teel/Corvette/
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 8,561
Likes: 946
From: Communist Colorado
Wow, I havent heard of anyone having this much trouble with this.... Mine came out with a few prys of the prybar and a little manipulation. I cant understand what can be holding it from coming free.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 233
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
I haven't actually done this so if someone has a better idea......
Last edited by Cratecruncher; Mar 14, 2011 at 06:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 5
From: Forsyth Illinois
Using the puck locations should be fine. (I don't have pucks so couldn't use that spot when I did mine.) Before unbolting stuff I'd locate a hydraulic jack under the engine in a high strength spot and distribute the load with another chunk of wood. Then I'd remove the engine mount bolts. Then I'd slowly back off the subframe to chassis mounting bolts evenly, one revolution at a time, until I got the rack freed but no more. My big worry with screwing with that subframe is that the front chassis spring is still under tension even with the cars weight off the front suspension. I wouldn't loosen those nuts past full thread engagement. If the rack isn't free by the time I ran out of threads I'd stop and try something else.
I haven't actually done this so if someone has a better idea......
I haven't actually done this so if someone has a better idea......
I hope to try and get some time on Tuesday or Wednesday to get back at it. I will keep you posted.
Anyone else have any ideas, I'm all
Thanks, Mark
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,987
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15,'19
I have done three cams in my car in the last year. never lowered the sub frame. If you get it back where it belongs pry the passenger mount toward the drivers side. you should get to the point of rotating it to slide out thru the drivers side sub frame opening. order new rack mounts from Napa or someplace yours look pretty worn
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,245
Likes: 25
From: Blue Ridge Georgia
Looking at your #2 picture it looks like part of your problem is with the rubber washers. The rubber washers have a metal insert that fits in the hole of the flange and is sweged to the flange. They should not move when you lift the rack. The both of them are attached to the flanges. I think the reason the rack is not lifting is that the rubber washers are causing an interference. There was a thread a couple of weeks ago about these washers. Bill Curlee had some good info on that thread. I think you need to call Bill and talk to him about your problem. Send him a PM, he's a great guy.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,245
Likes: 25
From: Blue Ridge Georgia
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 5
From: Forsyth Illinois
I'm not there yet, but I did get the rack back into it's original location.
I loosened the cradle bolts, put a shim in between the frame and cradle and that allowed me to get the rack rotated back into the cradle. A backwards move but its at lease back in it's original place.
The drivers side is loose and I can move it up and down by hand. Some of the rubber bushing around the cradle ears on the passenger side are gone with all the prying I've done.
With a pry bar put between the ears from the passenger wheel well, I can move the steering rack up only slightly. It is still tightly in there.
Should I just start prying it up again or try to move it sideways towards the drivers side wheel well? Mark
I loosened the cradle bolts, put a shim in between the frame and cradle and that allowed me to get the rack rotated back into the cradle. A backwards move but its at lease back in it's original place.
The drivers side is loose and I can move it up and down by hand. Some of the rubber bushing around the cradle ears on the passenger side are gone with all the prying I've done.
With a pry bar put between the ears from the passenger wheel well, I can move the steering rack up only slightly. It is still tightly in there.
Should I just start prying it up again or try to move it sideways towards the drivers side wheel well? Mark
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 5
From: Forsyth Illinois
SUCCESS!! 
Thanks so much to everyone who offered assistance and help. It all helped me get this accomplished.
This part, so far, has been an experience. I must admit that I probably caused it myself by getting the rack wedged sideways. Once I got it back into place, by leaving the drivers side in place between the ears on the cradle and prying up on the passenger side, I was able to get it up straight because the drivers side was still between the ears keeping the rack aligned and straight.
I am probably lucky that I didn't brake off the cradle ears when I got it wedged sideways. Thanks to everyone. Now on with the show. Mark
Thanks so much to everyone who offered assistance and help. It all helped me get this accomplished.
This part, so far, has been an experience. I must admit that I probably caused it myself by getting the rack wedged sideways. Once I got it back into place, by leaving the drivers side in place between the ears on the cradle and prying up on the passenger side, I was able to get it up straight because the drivers side was still between the ears keeping the rack aligned and straight.
I am probably lucky that I didn't brake off the cradle ears when I got it wedged sideways.
Thanks to everyone. Now on with the show. Mark
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well.. I got your request for help late but,, I am glad you forged ahead..
Here are some tips that I learned about damper install and removal. Heat is your friend. Heat the damper hub to about 150 deg with a torch or heat gun and it makes getting the damper on and off a WHOLE LOT EASIER!!
Like in the post that was referenced, I too use a strap wrench to hold the damper. Works SUPER! The tool you have works SUPER TOO.
I used the ARP Damper bolt with out issues. Rent the 0-250 ft/lb torque wrench and three jaw puller from AutoZone.
Save your old damper bolt to SEAT the new damper. I made my OWN damper install tool from an old bolt and some SAE All Thread. DO NOT be tempted to start the damper on with the old bolt. Some people have damaged their crank snout threads that way.
BC
Here are some tips that I learned about damper install and removal. Heat is your friend. Heat the damper hub to about 150 deg with a torch or heat gun and it makes getting the damper on and off a WHOLE LOT EASIER!!
Like in the post that was referenced, I too use a strap wrench to hold the damper. Works SUPER! The tool you have works SUPER TOO.
I used the ARP Damper bolt with out issues. Rent the 0-250 ft/lb torque wrench and three jaw puller from AutoZone.
Save your old damper bolt to SEAT the new damper. I made my OWN damper install tool from an old bolt and some SAE All Thread. DO NOT be tempted to start the damper on with the old bolt. Some people have damaged their crank snout threads that way.
BC
