01' Vette Stalling
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 142
Likes: 24
From: Houston Texas
01' Vette Stalling
Ok ya'll I need some friendly advice... (and I've searched plenty and come up with very little).
I have a 2001 coupe A4 that has stalled out on me twice in two weeks (both times on a Monday in the exact same intersection...weird)
The first time it stalled it was running a little rough, died, would not start back up. I had it towed to get it fixed and it was determined the crankshaft position sensor was bad. I get the car back last Saturday and it ran like a champ all weekend.
Now this past Monday on the way back to work from lunch break it died on me again. After about an hour went by it fired up and ran perfectly. I again had it towed away to have it looked at.
Before I had it towed again I noticed there was a hole in a vacuum line going from the passenger side head into the throttle body. I also pulled the codes from the dic (see below)...
Can anybody here make any good suggestions as to what might be going on here? I cleared all of the codes since they're historical to see if any come back that way the tech working on it will have a good starting point. I think I have an electrical demon living in my car.
10PCM: P0171 H
28TCS: U1016 H
58SDM: U1016 H
A0LDCM: U1016 H
A1RDCM: U1016 H
A6-SCM: U1016 H
B0RFA: U1000 H
B0RFA: U1016 H
I have a 2001 coupe A4 that has stalled out on me twice in two weeks (both times on a Monday in the exact same intersection...weird)
The first time it stalled it was running a little rough, died, would not start back up. I had it towed to get it fixed and it was determined the crankshaft position sensor was bad. I get the car back last Saturday and it ran like a champ all weekend.
Now this past Monday on the way back to work from lunch break it died on me again. After about an hour went by it fired up and ran perfectly. I again had it towed away to have it looked at.
Before I had it towed again I noticed there was a hole in a vacuum line going from the passenger side head into the throttle body. I also pulled the codes from the dic (see below)...
Can anybody here make any good suggestions as to what might be going on here? I cleared all of the codes since they're historical to see if any come back that way the tech working on it will have a good starting point. I think I have an electrical demon living in my car.
10PCM: P0171 H
28TCS: U1016 H
58SDM: U1016 H
A0LDCM: U1016 H
A1RDCM: U1016 H
A6-SCM: U1016 H
B0RFA: U1000 H
B0RFA: U1016 H
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 142
Likes: 24
From: Houston Texas
I was initially thinking fuel pump too when it first happened. I don't have a pressure gauge. I might have to get one this weekend.
Now the techs are thinking it has something to do with my aftermarket alarm. I am very hesitant to pin the problem on the alarm b/c I've had the alarm for nearly a year now and have never had an issue with it (professionally installed).
Now the techs are thinking it has something to do with my aftermarket alarm. I am very hesitant to pin the problem on the alarm b/c I've had the alarm for nearly a year now and have never had an issue with it (professionally installed).
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,448
Likes: 1,155
From: Dyer, IN
Ok ya'll I need some friendly advice... (and I've searched plenty and come up with very little).
I have a 2001 coupe A4 that has stalled out on me twice in two weeks (both times on a Monday in the exact same intersection...weird)
The first time it stalled it was running a little rough, died, would not start back up. I had it towed to get it fixed and it was determined the crankshaft position sensor was bad. I get the car back last Saturday and it ran like a champ all weekend.
Now this past Monday on the way back to work from lunch break it died on me again. After about an hour went by it fired up and ran perfectly. I again had it towed away to have it looked at.
Before I had it towed again I noticed there was a hole in a vacuum line going from the passenger side head into the throttle body. I also pulled the codes from the dic (see below)...
Can anybody here make any good suggestions as to what might be going on here? I cleared all of the codes since they're historical to see if any come back that way the tech working on it will have a good starting point. I think I have an electrical demon living in my car.
10PCM: P0171 H
28TCS: U1016 H
58SDM: U1016 H
A0LDCM: U1016 H
A1RDCM: U1016 H
A6-SCM: U1016 H
B0RFA: U1000 H
B0RFA: U1016 H
I have a 2001 coupe A4 that has stalled out on me twice in two weeks (both times on a Monday in the exact same intersection...weird)
The first time it stalled it was running a little rough, died, would not start back up. I had it towed to get it fixed and it was determined the crankshaft position sensor was bad. I get the car back last Saturday and it ran like a champ all weekend.
Now this past Monday on the way back to work from lunch break it died on me again. After about an hour went by it fired up and ran perfectly. I again had it towed away to have it looked at.
Before I had it towed again I noticed there was a hole in a vacuum line going from the passenger side head into the throttle body. I also pulled the codes from the dic (see below)...
Can anybody here make any good suggestions as to what might be going on here? I cleared all of the codes since they're historical to see if any come back that way the tech working on it will have a good starting point. I think I have an electrical demon living in my car.
10PCM: P0171 H
28TCS: U1016 H
58SDM: U1016 H
A0LDCM: U1016 H
A1RDCM: U1016 H
A6-SCM: U1016 H
B0RFA: U1000 H
B0RFA: U1016 H
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Im surprised that you didnt see any NO COMMS DIC messages but, maybe they cleared before you read them. The nex time your car dies,,, read the DTCs immediately before you do anything with the ignition switch. See what DTCs or messages are present.
My first guess would be a problem with the serial data buss. The MOST common cause with that is the door connectors in each accordion tube
Pull the power connector apart and see if you see any of the female pins that are deformed If they are, bend the little toung back up for a better connection.
BC
My first guess would be a problem with the serial data buss. The MOST common cause with that is the door connectors in each accordion tube
Pull the power connector apart and see if you see any of the female pins that are deformed If they are, bend the little toung back up for a better connection.
BC
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 142
Likes: 24
From: Houston Texas
Im surprised that you didnt see any NO COMMS DIC messages but, maybe they cleared before you read them. The nex time your car dies,,, read the DTCs immediately before you do anything with the ignition switch. See what DTCs or messages are present.
My first guess would be a problem with the serial data buss. The MOST common cause with that is the door connectors in each accordion tube
Pull the power connector apart and see if you see any of the female pins that are deformed If they are, bend the little toung back up for a better connection.
BC
My first guess would be a problem with the serial data buss. The MOST common cause with that is the door connectors in each accordion tube
Pull the power connector apart and see if you see any of the female pins that are deformed If they are, bend the little toung back up for a better connection.
BC
When I get the car back I will pull the door panels off and look into the deformed contacts you mentioned above.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 25
That's why I suspected fuel delivery as the problem-if it's the pump you get no warnings.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
BAD FEMALE PIN
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 142
Likes: 24
From: Houston Texas
I got the car back Saturday and checked out the connections in the door accordions and everything looked fine.
Monday and Tuesday morning I had a weird message pop up on the dash saying "active handling warming up". It was 72* outside...I'm starting to wonder if the wiring on the IAT sensor is losing connection and that is throwing the car off. The wires seem very stiff from the age/heat. No error codes though..
Monday and Tuesday morning I had a weird message pop up on the dash saying "active handling warming up". It was 72* outside...I'm starting to wonder if the wiring on the IAT sensor is losing connection and that is throwing the car off. The wires seem very stiff from the age/heat. No error codes though..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 328
From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
The p0171 is a LEAN code for the drivers side---Could be a bad 02 left sensor but i suspect as others it may be a fuel volume or pressure problem--Check fuel pressure on fuel rail--change fuel filter
ALSO If they replaced the crank position sensor--- You MUST do a "Crank position sensor RE-LEARN procedure" This can be done by any tuner with HP or EFILIVE or any shop with a TECH II--Typically though you get a code when this is needed--But not always
ALSO If they replaced the crank position sensor--- You MUST do a "Crank position sensor RE-LEARN procedure" This can be done by any tuner with HP or EFILIVE or any shop with a TECH II--Typically though you get a code when this is needed--But not always
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: Spring Texas
I got the car back Saturday and checked out the connections in the door accordions and everything looked fine.
Monday and Tuesday morning I had a weird message pop up on the dash saying "active handling warming up". It was 72* outside...I'm starting to wonder if the wiring on the IAT sensor is losing connection and that is throwing the car off. The wires seem very stiff from the age/heat. No error codes though..
Monday and Tuesday morning I had a weird message pop up on the dash saying "active handling warming up". It was 72* outside...I'm starting to wonder if the wiring on the IAT sensor is losing connection and that is throwing the car off. The wires seem very stiff from the age/heat. No error codes though..
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Active Handling WARMING UP has nothing to do with temperature. It means that the ACTIVE Handling System is trying to determine the ZERO position of the steering wheel.
If you crank up the car and have the wheels tuned or turn them and don't give the EBTCM time to compute steering wheel zero, it will give you that message. If it pops up infrequently, it isn't an issue. If it comes up a LOT and you are not doing anything to not allow the EBTCM to conduct it computations,, you may have a Steering Wheel Position Sensor issue or an alignment issue.
BC
If you crank up the car and have the wheels tuned or turn them and don't give the EBTCM time to compute steering wheel zero, it will give you that message. If it pops up infrequently, it isn't an issue. If it comes up a LOT and you are not doing anything to not allow the EBTCM to conduct it computations,, you may have a Steering Wheel Position Sensor issue or an alignment issue.
BC
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 142
Likes: 24
From: Houston Texas
The vacuum line was replaced and the car seems to be running great. However it was running great after the CSP sensor was changed.
I will probably have the O2 sensors on the driver side replaced when I do headers/x pipe shortly. They aren't that expensive and it would be the perfect time to replace them.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: Spring Texas
Corvettes of Houston always does the work on my car and they are A+ professional so I know its not sketchy mechanic work.
The vacuum line was replaced and the car seems to be running great. However it was running great after the CSP sensor was changed.
I will probably have the O2 sensors on the driver side replaced when I do headers/x pipe shortly. They aren't that expensive and it would be the perfect time to replace them.
The vacuum line was replaced and the car seems to be running great. However it was running great after the CSP sensor was changed.
I will probably have the O2 sensors on the driver side replaced when I do headers/x pipe shortly. They aren't that expensive and it would be the perfect time to replace them.
They did install my LG headers and HF cats for a decent price. My only complaint with the lg set up is the slip clamps keep leaking.
If your not throwing any more codes then you should be good to go! If your still getting the PO171 check the O2 sensors and make sure none of them are loose! Its not a bad idea to replace the O2 sensors with the header install. If you don't want to replace them your self why not have them do all 4 at the same time to save on labor down the road?
