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Hey guys, throwing this out for thoughts/validation:
97 6speed, 78,000 miles. This just started, 12.9 (lights on or off )engine running (all rpms). Fuel pump seems louder that ever. volts go down and pump wine changes when brakes or turn signals in use.
new GM installed factory alteranator/batt cable and Battery 10 months ago.
Will these pumps pull extera amps when dying? anyone have a similar problem?
Hey guys, throwing this out for thoughts/validation:
97 6speed, 78,000 miles. This just started, 12.9 (lights on or off )engine running (all rpms). Fuel pump seems louder that ever. volts go down and pump wine changes when brakes or turn signals in use.
new GM installed factory alteranator/batt cable and Battery 10 months ago.
Will these pumps pull extera amps when dying? anyone have a similar problem?
thanks in advance!
Where are you reading the voltage? Take a reading from the battery, not the DIC. Yes, a DC motor will start to draw more current as they near failure. Some fuel pumps are noisey all the time, but if yours has been quiet....it may be on it's way out. The amount of fuel in the tank, will also affect how pronounced the noise is.
readings off the dic and dash gauge. I did run the tank low the other day(took 18.6 gallons at fillup $78.00 bucks). Hopefully dident run sediment through the pump(car still runs ok). Just put some lucas injector cleaner in the tank.
readings off the dic and dash gauge. I did run the tank low the other day(took 18.6 gallons at fillup $78.00 bucks). Hopefully dident run sediment through the pump(car still runs ok). Just put some lucas injector cleaner in the tank.
Need to read off the battery. I would not worry about the sediment, provided the sock is intact.
97 & early 98 C5s had KNOWN noisy fuel pumps. There was a TSB that covered that . I had the one in my early 98 replaced under that TSM when the car was a year old.
If your pump changes a LOT when other loads are being used, you could very well have a dirty ignition switch. Your car being as old as it is, unless the ignition switch has been changed previously, its most likely well past due to be repaired/cleaned/replaced. The DIC voltage and the actual battery voltage measured at the battery terminals "SHOULD" be very close to each other. The DIC and IPC voltages are supplied thru the IGNITION SWITCH
If the electrical contacts inside the ignition switch are burnt, you will have all kinds of electrical issues.
Heres a post i made to lead guide and direct you thru a complete ignition switch repair. Best part about the whole thing,,,, its FREE!
checked the volts at the batt terminals last night with the car running and all options on(a/c, lights, hazards, radio) and it read 13.5. The dash showed 12.6-12.9.
the batt tested 12.5 with car turned off (hood and maybe courtesy lights on)
Do you guys think the ignition switch contacts will cause the dic and gauge to be off? Also effect the volts to the fuel pump, causing the pitch to change when signals or brakes(other loads) are applied?
checked the volts at the batt terminals last night with the car running and all options on(a/c, lights, hazards, radio) and it read 13.5. The dash showed 12.6-12.9.
the batt tested 12.5 with car turned off (hood and maybe courtesy lights on)
....and what about the reading at the battery, without all the options on(engine running of course)? Would be nice to know if you observe the same disparity between the battery and DIC. Would also like to see what the alternator is reading. Take a voltage measurement at the rear of the alternator.
Last edited by lucky131969; Mar 18, 2011 at 11:53 AM.
IF,,, you examine the schematic provided below,, you will see that the battery powered source is labled "HOT in ON & START".. That is the ignition provided power source. Im cant say for sure that you have a bad ignition switch or not cause Im not at your car taking voltage measurements. But,,YES, it very well could be a bad ignition switch contact that needs to be cleaned. The FUSE has two small slots on top of it. Those slots are TEST POINTS. If you read those to chassis ground, you will see what the fuel pump supply voltage is out of the switch.
right around 13.7 at the batt, car running, no acc on. Im useing a sweep gauge, not digital so could be a few off either way.
since cleaning the contacts, have seen 13-13.1 on the dic, but still will drop to 12.8-12.9 with load running. At the same time the batt reads 13.5-13.75 constant with load running.
maybe its my old age, i dont recall the dic ever showing that low before.
What do other stock C5's show ion the dic under these conditions?
sorry for the late response! rain delay. you know us lightweights on the west coast. Anyway, im using a old school sweep meter and i read 1/2(prob 14.9) between 10 and 20 volts at the lug on the alt with the motor running. Also at the batt and the pump fuse. Dic shows 12.9 I swapped out the relay out with another(horn i belive, same number) and no change.
I guess testing volts at the fuel pump would be next? where would the best location/fitting be?