rear suspension
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 7
From: Iowa
rear suspension
I know my way around a torque wrench but I'm not the most mechanically inclined.
I have a horrible squeak coming from the rear suspension of my C5, it can be heard with the car stationary just pushing down on the rear. its on the driver's side. I've made several attempts to figure out where its coming from and am still completely at a loss.
I want to start taking a few things apart and greasing until hopefully it will go away.
if I unload the rear suspension am I safe to remove bolts for the A arms and strut and swaybar etc? would one side be enough or should I put the whole rear on stands?
I have a shop manual so I know how to torque everything.
from the looks of it the upper A-arm shouldn't have any tension on it. the spring, swaybar, and strut all are attached to the lower arm. my plan is to loosen the fasteners one at a time and grease the bushings and the fasteners (except the threads of course) and put it back together and see if it does anything.
the strut (F45) has the metal shaft hidden with a shroud, would it be a good or bad idea to shoot white lithium grease up there with the little straw on the can in case that is the cause itself?
I have a stethoscope, but since this is all metal and its all connected, I can clearly hear the sound coming from EVERYWHERE I can't pin it down at all.
my next step is going to be taking it to a shop and paying way too much to have them find an eliminate something that is just an annoyance, but its been bugging me forever.
I have a horrible squeak coming from the rear suspension of my C5, it can be heard with the car stationary just pushing down on the rear. its on the driver's side. I've made several attempts to figure out where its coming from and am still completely at a loss.
I want to start taking a few things apart and greasing until hopefully it will go away.
if I unload the rear suspension am I safe to remove bolts for the A arms and strut and swaybar etc? would one side be enough or should I put the whole rear on stands?
I have a shop manual so I know how to torque everything.
from the looks of it the upper A-arm shouldn't have any tension on it. the spring, swaybar, and strut all are attached to the lower arm. my plan is to loosen the fasteners one at a time and grease the bushings and the fasteners (except the threads of course) and put it back together and see if it does anything.
the strut (F45) has the metal shaft hidden with a shroud, would it be a good or bad idea to shoot white lithium grease up there with the little straw on the can in case that is the cause itself?
I have a stethoscope, but since this is all metal and its all connected, I can clearly hear the sound coming from EVERYWHERE I can't pin it down at all.
my next step is going to be taking it to a shop and paying way too much to have them find an eliminate something that is just an annoyance, but its been bugging me forever.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
I would first suspect the bushings on the sway bars shocks next
Both sway bars and shocks can be removed without changing alignment.
I just replaced both on my C5. Shocks with car jacked up and off the wheel(s). Sway bars on ramps with weight on the wheels. Sway bar bushings a culprit. Either grease or teflon tape. Just did rear bar today and used teflon tape about 3 layers over area that will be covered by the bushing. If you have plastic end links replace them too.
I just replaced both on my C5. Shocks with car jacked up and off the wheel(s). Sway bars on ramps with weight on the wheels. Sway bar bushings a culprit. Either grease or teflon tape. Just did rear bar today and used teflon tape about 3 layers over area that will be covered by the bushing. If you have plastic end links replace them too.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 7
From: Iowa
Both sway bars and shocks can be removed without changing alignment.
I just replaced both on my C5. Shocks with car jacked up and off the wheel(s). Sway bars on ramps with weight on the wheels. Sway bar bushings a culprit. Either grease or teflon tape. Just did rear bar today and used teflon tape about 3 layers over area that will be covered by the bushing. If you have plastic end links replace them too.
I just replaced both on my C5. Shocks with car jacked up and off the wheel(s). Sway bars on ramps with weight on the wheels. Sway bar bushings a culprit. Either grease or teflon tape. Just did rear bar today and used teflon tape about 3 layers over area that will be covered by the bushing. If you have plastic end links replace them too.
