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EBCM will not separate from BPMV

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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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Default EBCM will not separate from BPMV

I am having trouble removing the EBCM on a 2002 C5. I followed the excellent instructions of Dave68. I am at the point where the six mounting screws are removed and a screw driver was used to break the seal between the EBCM and the BPMV. My problem is the EBCM will not separate from the BPMV. From the passenger side I am trying to pull the EBCM straight away from the BPMV with no luck. I also tried twisting the EBCM from side to side and up and down to try to break the seal all around the unit. The instruction in the 2002 service manual section 5-188 is completely incorrect. The instructions states the mounting stud goes through the EBCM and has to be removed to remove the unit. I would appreciate any help in this matter.

Thanks Bob
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 01:39 PM
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You have all the correct screws out??????







The EBTCM is sealed with a stickey gasket bbut its NOT that stickey.

BC
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 02:15 PM
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Bill:

I checked that I have removed the correct (6) T20 torx mounting screws at least four times. I have six brass screws 7/8 inches long. There are (4) torx screws left in the front cover. The position of the EBMC makes it a pain to get at. After the seal is broken how much trouble should it be to remove the EBCM?

Please help I am completely frustrated.

Thanks Bob
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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i just did mine recently and had more trouble getting to the screws than anything else. I had a friend helping me break the seal. He had the screwdriver from the driver side, I was on the passenger side with my hand pulling and wiggling the EBCM. Took a minute and some wiggling but it let go eventually. I wouldn't say it was "stuck" but did take a bit of effort. Not as much as what you're describing however.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteguy02
Bill:

I checked that I have removed the correct (6) T20 torx mounting screws at least four times. I have six brass screws 7/8 inches long. There are (4) torx screws left in the front cover. The position of the EBMC makes it a pain to get at. After the seal is broken how much trouble should it be to remove the EBCM?

Please help I am completely frustrated.

Thanks Bob
BOB

Call me. PM SENT
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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AntonioZ06 yesterday my brother and I did just that would not budge. I talked to Bill Curlee and he suggested putting a screw driver through the slot by the middle mounting screw and break it loose all away around. With the space available a screw driver bent at 90 degree would be my best bet. I am going to give this a try soon.

Thanks to both of you for your help.

Bob
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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BE CAREFUL!

I had my EBCM "repaired" previously, but it stopped working shortly thereafter (it worked for about a month). When I removed the module last night, I encountered significant resistance (much more than the first time I removed it). When it finally came off, it was readily apparent that I had a major problem. I won't go into details just yet about who did the repair, as I am waiting on a response from him regarding what he is willing to do to remedy the situation, but it is quite obvious that the unit was not sealed properly after it was "serviced". The EBCM had standing water inside it, which led to significant corrosion. If you are not familiar with the way the EBCM and BPMV connect, if my memory is correct, there are small rings (electromagnets?) in the EBCM that surround cylinders that extend out from the BPMV into the EBCM. The water caused such extensive corrosion that the rings were STUCK to those cylinders. When the two finally separated, the wires connecting those rings to the circuit board broke free, and the rings stayed with the BPMV. This is obviously no longer a cheap fix.

Pictures for your enjoyment:



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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 10:42 PM
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Wow....that's crazy. Given the location, I'm surprised water made it's way in soo easily. You don't pressure wash the engine do you?
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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Holy Hell!! Where do you think it leaked at?? Theres really only TWO places. The black seal that seals against the BPMV body OR the four screws that secures the electronics to the EBTCM housing...

What did the BPMV poppet valves look like??

Heres what they look like in new shape!





Hope you get resolution with your issue.

Bill
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:07 PM
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Lucky: I agree. I can't imagine how the module got so much water inside. I've never pressure washed the engine, and the car hardly ever even gets driven in the rain. I do have an MCM hood on the car, but given how rarely it's driven (or parked) in the rain, I can't imagine that all the water came in through there...?

Bill: I wish i could tell you how the poppet valves look. Unfortunately, there was so much corrosion inside the EBCM, the rings that encircle the valves were "frozen" onto them. They're still there, actually, as I haven't had a chance to take off the BPMV to attempt to remove them. I'm not very optimistic though, since they were obviously so stuck that every one of the circuits connecting the "rings" to the circuit board in the EBCM broke when I separated the two pieces. As expected, I'm a little upset about this situation. I'm assuming I'll now have to replace both the EBCM and the BPMV. Going to be costly.

And as far as the leak is concerned, I'm guessing the black "seal" was the culprit. I noticed moisture on the outside of the unit when I took it out of the car, so I looked it over carefully before I pulled the four screws (which were very tight, btw). I could see the seal along the bottom of the unit (it obviously worked there, since water was standing inside the module), but there was no indication that it was even present at the top.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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Those POPPET valves are pretty tough. I wouldn't assume that you need a new BPMV.. If your brakes are working now and there are not any deep pits in the tubes, remove the carnage, clean them off, polish them up and you should be good to go.

See if you can work out something with the repair place. If not, find a use one. If it works, your golden. If it gets a 1214 DTC, the repair place should hook you up.

BC
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 12:38 AM
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Thanks for the info, Bill. Glad to know that the poppets are resilient. That's a big relief, as I REALLY don't want to have to buy a new BPMV. Regardless of how my situation turns out with the original service provider, I think I'll look elsewhere if I encounter another 1214 code!
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 12:58 AM
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MightyDuc:

Sorry for your bad experience. I hope you will get a reimbursement from the vendor. Thanks for the information. I did not get back to my car today. Your pictures make me think it might be better to go with a new unit in the long run.

Bob
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:12 AM
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Vetteguy, you have a PM...

and here's a pic of the BPMV for anyone else that might be interested. Still think this can be salvaged, Bill? I'm keeping my fingers crossed...
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