Help removing front spring adjuster bolts
#1
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Help removing front spring adjuster bolts
Bought a set of used C5 Z51 springs (front and rear) and while the springs themselves are in good shape the front spring adjuster bolts are in bad shape. They are rusted, the end of the bolt is chewed up as if the previous owner was using a pipe wrench to turn them. So bad that I cannot get a wrench on the ends as they are almost totally rounded off. Even if I could it looks like the bolts are seized in place by the rust.
So I quickly found out that GM will not sell just the bolts, and I either have to replace them with some used stocks ones I can find, or possibly swap them with the ones that will be on my base spring if they are in good shape (have not looked yet) or get some aftermarket bolts from one of the lowering kits for sale.
The question is how to go about removing the chewed up ones from the spring without damaging the spring or the threads in the spring? I have sprayed the bolts with some penetrating oil right now to see if that will break them free. I was thinking of drilling through the bolt so I could slip a rod through it to use as a lever to turn the bolt, or try to file flats in the top of the bolt so I could get an adjustable wrench on it. It is at least easier to work on the bolts with the spring out of the car. Any thoughts would be welcomed.
Also, the rubber mounting pads on the Z51 springs are a little scuffed but look ok, but I was wondering can they be replaced?
Thanks.
So I quickly found out that GM will not sell just the bolts, and I either have to replace them with some used stocks ones I can find, or possibly swap them with the ones that will be on my base spring if they are in good shape (have not looked yet) or get some aftermarket bolts from one of the lowering kits for sale.
The question is how to go about removing the chewed up ones from the spring without damaging the spring or the threads in the spring? I have sprayed the bolts with some penetrating oil right now to see if that will break them free. I was thinking of drilling through the bolt so I could slip a rod through it to use as a lever to turn the bolt, or try to file flats in the top of the bolt so I could get an adjustable wrench on it. It is at least easier to work on the bolts with the spring out of the car. Any thoughts would be welcomed.
Also, the rubber mounting pads on the Z51 springs are a little scuffed but look ok, but I was wondering can they be replaced?
Thanks.
#2
Le Mans Master
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Soak/spray w/PB Blaster for two days.
After such time, take a pipe wrench & turn the adjuster screw out by turning the adjuster from the rubber pad end.
If it seems to not want to budge, apply a small amount of heat to the adjuster , bearing in mind that the spring is f/glass.
Good luck.
After such time, take a pipe wrench & turn the adjuster screw out by turning the adjuster from the rubber pad end.
If it seems to not want to budge, apply a small amount of heat to the adjuster , bearing in mind that the spring is f/glass.
Good luck.
#3
Race Director
You could weld a nut on the damaged end of the adjustment bolt for more secure grip. Then careful use with an (lower torque setting) impact to break it free of the rust.
Before that, apply liberal amounts of PB BLASTER to the little trough on the top side of the adjustment bolt. Allow it to seep through over time. When you see it seeping through on the bottom side, it should be lubricated enough to remove.
Or, you might find that the insert/adjustment bolt are rusted together and no manner of separating them and that's why the previous owner sold them...
Before that, apply liberal amounts of PB BLASTER to the little trough on the top side of the adjustment bolt. Allow it to seep through over time. When you see it seeping through on the bottom side, it should be lubricated enough to remove.
Or, you might find that the insert/adjustment bolt are rusted together and no manner of separating them and that's why the previous owner sold them...
#4
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
You could weld a nut on the damaged end of the adjustment bolt for more secure grip. Then careful use with an (lower torque setting) impact to break it free of the rust.
Before that, apply liberal amounts of PB BLASTER to the little trough on the top side of the adjustment bolt. Allow it to seep through over time. When you see it seeping through on the bottom side, it should be lubricated enough to remove.
Or, you might find that the insert/adjustment bolt are rusted together and no manner of separating them and that's why the previous owner sold them...
Before that, apply liberal amounts of PB BLASTER to the little trough on the top side of the adjustment bolt. Allow it to seep through over time. When you see it seeping through on the bottom side, it should be lubricated enough to remove.
Or, you might find that the insert/adjustment bolt are rusted together and no manner of separating them and that's why the previous owner sold them...
#5
Le Mans Master
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I really don't think you will have a problem removing the adjusters.
Main thing is give it plenty of time to let that PB Blaster work into the threaded area from both sides
You could order an after market adjuster bolt, while your taking the time to remove the old adj.
Main thing is give it plenty of time to let that PB Blaster work into the threaded area from both sides
You could order an after market adjuster bolt, while your taking the time to remove the old adj.
#7
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Where is the spring that you took off your car?
Was it was setting at close to the ride height that you like?
If so, measure the old adjuster from the bottom of the spring to the bottom of the adjuster.
Set the new adjuster @ the same measurement.
The car will be setting close to what is was before.
(You can set aftermarket adjusters, to get stock C/5 ride height)
Was it was setting at close to the ride height that you like?
If so, measure the old adjuster from the bottom of the spring to the bottom of the adjuster.
Set the new adjuster @ the same measurement.
The car will be setting close to what is was before.
(You can set aftermarket adjusters, to get stock C/5 ride height)
Last edited by bumble-z; 03-25-2011 at 05:13 PM.
#8
Race Director
If/when you get the oem bolts out, HARDBAR USA has a set of stainless bolts with Delrin ends that allow for more adjustment while still retaining a cushion of sorts between the spring and control arm.
It's not inexpensive, but it won't rust and the Delrin end is removable for future R&R...
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...products_id=41
It's not inexpensive, but it won't rust and the Delrin end is removable for future R&R...
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...products_id=41
#9
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I cut mine off close to the spring with a 3" cutoff wheel in a die-grinder. Then, I turned on the bushing end with a small pipe wrench. They came out pretty easily. Replaced them with a set from a lowering kit, which will still give you lots of ride height adjsutability.
Peter
Peter
#10
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St. Jude Donor '07
Micah
#11
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alxtd1,...
If these are the original stock adjusters & the top sides are in good shape to where you can get a wrench on them to adjust, you
would be right back to the original adjuster set up.
#12
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Thanks again. The springs will be going in with a set of C6 Z06 shocks and C6 Z51 sway bars and new metal end links. Hopefully this set up will produce significant handling improvements without too harsh/stiff a ride.
Last edited by alxltd1; 03-26-2011 at 01:07 AM.
#14
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17