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Another one bites the P1637 dust!

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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 05:27 PM
  #21  
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I took off the two harness exposing two 6" rows of blue and red plastic covered pins.
which one is pin 15?
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Home Grown
I took off the two harness exposing two 6" rows of blue and red plastic covered pins.
which one is pin 15?
If you look at the schematic I posted, you'll see there is a box in the PCM titled " CONN ID" : C1= BLU; C2= RED




Last edited by lucky131969; Mar 27, 2011 at 05:37 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 05:47 PM
  #23  
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I understand you can see the pin numbers by squeezing the end of the grey cover and releasing the clip and moving the cover to the side. I've been squeezing to the point of possibly breaking the plastic. Are there more specific instructions?
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:00 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Home Grown
I understand you can see the pin numbers by squeezing the end of the grey cover and releasing the clip and moving the cover to the side. I've been squeezing to the point of possibly breaking the plastic. Are there more specific instructions?
I do not understand your question. You don't have to see the pin numbers, if you match the orientation of the plug, to the picture I posted......and just count. Nothing to squeeze.....or take of chance of breaking...for that matter.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:03 PM
  #25  
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Sorry, I sent my message before yours came in.
I'm back in the garage.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:07 PM
  #26  
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All you have to do, is insert a connector pin, in the appropriate socket. I believe 20 gauge works well



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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #27  
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Done.
.3 ohms. Thats good right?
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Home Grown
Done.
.3 ohms. Thats good right?
What are you checking?
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #29  
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Continuity in wire from pcm to generator.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Home Grown
Continuity in wire from pcm to generator.
Yes, that's is good. What about resistance to ground?
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:45 PM
  #31  
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Step #5;
Test the generator battery positive voltage sense circuit for a high resistance or open.

I got .3 ohms. Again, good right?
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Home Grown
Step #5;
Test the generator battery positive voltage sense circuit for a high resistance or open.

I got .3 ohms. Again, good right?
Again, I do not know specifically what you are checking, and you never answered my previous question.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 07:14 PM
  #33  
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The questions are related to the steps you provided.
The answer to your prievious question is related to step #4;
#4:
Test the generator turn on signal circuit for a short or open (pin 15 at pcm).
Test resulted with .3 ohms.

Step #5
Test the generator battery positive voltage sense circuit for a high resistance or open. Test resulted with .4 ohms.
--
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 6
6
Test the generator battery positive voltage output circuit for a high resistance or open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 07:20 PM
  #34  
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(Accidentally sent without finishing last message)

Step #6
Test the generator battery positive voltage output circuit for a high resistance or open. Test resulted with .4 ohms.

Last three steps passed with reguard to no/low resistance, right?
If so, on to step #7.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Home Grown
The questions are related to the steps you provided.
The answer to your prievious question is related to step #4;
#4:
Test the generator turn on signal circuit for a short or open (pin 15 at pcm).
Test resulted with .3 ohms.

Step #5
Test the generator battery positive voltage sense circuit for a high resistance or open. Test resulted with .4 ohms.
--
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 6
6
Test the generator battery positive voltage output circuit for a high resistance or open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Ok. I'm confused...which is not easy to do.... I'll PM my number , if you want further assistance.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 04:56 PM
  #36  
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Problem solved!

Once I got to the step to replace the alt, I spun the clutch pulley both ways and it didn't catch to spin the rotor. I replaced the alt with a lifetime guaranteed, non-clutched pulley alt from Advance Auto. Using an Advance Auto promo code for $50 off $150 and up (originally $170) I only paid $120 and two days diagnosing.

Now on to final remaining code C1214.

Thanks Mike for all your advise and Patience.

Kurt
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 05:17 PM
  #37  
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lucky,

Down the road, I'd like to implement many upgrades to my C5. After talking to you, learning what you've done to your car i.e. supercharger, heads, engine work in general to include the drive train (all items I'm considering), I,d like to pick your brain for the dos and donts.
I'm aware of the costs but I want to do as much planning prior to tear-down so to do as much in the first effort to avoid an unnecessary post tear-down because of an afterthought.

Thanks again!
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 05:57 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Home Grown
Problem solved!

Once I got to the step to replace the alt, I spun the clutch pulley both ways and it didn't catch to spin the rotor. I replaced the alt with a lifetime guaranteed, non-clutched pulley alt from Advance Auto. Using an Advance Auto promo code for $50 off $150 and up (originally $170) I only paid $120 and two days diagnosing.

Now on to final remaining code C1214.

Thanks Mike for all your advise and Patience.

Kurt
Hmmm. The pulley without a clutch, is specifically for a 2002 manual trans, not an auto (I assume you have an A4). It has a specific purpose, and you may come up with a few new issues, as a result of not having it.

FYI - Evil-Twin, is a retired GM engineer on the C5 program.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1563559750-post2.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1573206189-post2.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...or-pulley.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...hangeable.html
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 06:53 PM
  #39  
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Great links lucky!
It's amazing how much time, frustration and $$$ folks have spent on such a seemingly simple solution.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #40  
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EXCELLENT! Well done!

As for the 1214 DTC,,, IF you have proper power and ground to the module (recommend checking the voltage at each EBTCM Fuse FULL for battery voltage).. It thats good, you will need to send the module out to one of the ABS Fixer places OR get a new module.

It an internal relay issue inside the module. Now that you have complete charging system functions, I would reset the DTCs and monitor for DTC recurrence.

BC
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