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Ok so I was driving to work everything was good to go. I get off the interstate and stop at a light. When I went to take off the engine sounded like a wrx boxer engine. I can smell fuel and the car is running like crap and has reduced power. No check engine lights oil pressure is good cooling temp is normal. Fuel pressure is normal. No signs of a fuel leak. I can really smell the fuel from the tail pipe extra strong.
It's consuming gas at an alarming rate a quarter tank in 40 miles.
If you see reduced power,,, you have to have DTCs!! How are you reading them??? normally Reduced power deals with the throttle by wire system but, it can be set off by other faults.
Are you reading them with the engine running as soon as the issue happens OR turning the engine OFF and then reading them.
Ok so I pulled the plugs and upon doing so i discovered that the #7 Spark Plug was mashed together as depicted. I pulled the rest of the plugs and they all looked fine. No signs of detonation. My next step was to pull the Valve cover on the Driver Side (number 7 cylinder side) After pulling the Valve covers I removed the rocker to the number 7 Intake Valve and the spring, retainer and Keepers as well as the tip of the valve came with it. Gemtlemen, I believe I found my problem. After talking to BlownBlueZO6 he told me that number 7 cylinder usually runs hot and that the stock heads are known for the valve guides coming loose. Anyway I will tear the engine down to determine cause of failure. Looks like I'm going to have a 427 Built with some aftermarket heads. I'm going to pick up some AFR heads. Anyway, here's some pics.
Dammit. Worse than I expected. Sorry man, I was hoping for a broken spring.
Thanks man. I guess it the nature of the beast. I guess the good part is the car actually does still run and drive. What I'm going to do is tear the engine down and sell what I can to fund some of the new build.
Thanks man. I guess it the nature of the beast. I guess the good part is the car actually does still run and drive. What I'm going to do is tear the engine down and sell what I can to fund some of the new build.
Just curious. Did you have the rear coolant air bleeds blocked off?
Just curious. Did you have the rear coolant air bleeds blocked off?
I dunno, I didnt build the engine. I bought the car like it is.
I'm pretty sure it was done right. I think this is just a case of component failure. possibly due to the cylinder head used. I'll know more once I get it disassembled.
I dunno, I didnt build the engine. I bought the car like it is.
I'm pretty sure it was done right. I think this is just a case of component failure. possibly due to the cylinder head used. I'll know more once I get it disassembled.
I've only been on the forum for 4 years, but in all the cases i've seen with #7 failure, it appears to be either:
1) Modified LS1, and rear coolant air bleeds blocked off.
2) LS6
I've only been on the forum for 4 years, but in all the cases i've seen with #7 failure, it appears to be either:
1) Modified LS1, and rear coolant air bleeds blocked off.
2) LS6
No biggie, just wondering if the trend continues.
I'm going to go with the LS6 Trend. LOL.
Time for an Iron BLock 427 with AFR or Trick Flow heads.
Unless the LS6 is completely undamaged (highly unlikely) but in which case I'll see what caused the valve to faile (i.e. cylinder heads) and I'll fix it.
Bummer for sure. If it was tagged by the piston, you might want to consider looking at the bottom end too...unless you are going to a new engine as you were mentioning.
I was just thinking, this is a text I just sent to Brett.
Hey I was just thinking. Those heads are stock right with stock valves and upgraded springs? With that said, do you think that the seat and opening pressure that those aftermarket springs create are too much for the stock valves to handle? Maybe that's what pulled the valve apart. I mean maybe that along with the increase of cylinder pressure and temperature due to the blower caused the failure. I guess there's no way to know for sure until I get it apart.