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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 05:01 PM
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Default No electrical power

I have no power whatsoever on my '99 C5. Turn the ingnition key, nothing--no dash lights, no starter motor, nothing. It's as if the battery was disconnected.
Yes, I used cables to try to jump it--nothing.
Recent history: I replaced fuses 33 & 34 under the passenger floorboard to fix the non-working driver's door power window/door lock/mirror buttons.
Shortly after, the FOB stopped working. FOB battery checks ok.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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I'd try a known good battery first. If your battery is shorted, a jump won't do anything except drain the jumper battery. Sub a battery first. If still dead, check the red wire connection to the starter solenoid, it feeds voltage everywhere else. Also check underneath the battery cable connections to be sure you have good connections. You could also measure the battery terminals directly, if you have voltage there, but not on the cables, you know they're corroded or loose.
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 06:10 PM
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If you have ZERO power,, either the battery is completely dead OR the battery cables are NOT properly connected. They need to be torqued to 11 ft lbs (97-2003)

Test the battery ubder load with a volt meter
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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I charged the battery and checked w/a volt meter and it's got 12-13 volts.
The positive cable from the battery splits in two. One side goes to the fuse box next to the battery and other goes down the engine bay, presumable to the starter solenoid which is under the car.
I checked the fuse box input--12 volts. I didn't do the solenoid yet as I have to jack the car.
Question is, could there be a fuse that's causing the problem? In the fuse box, there's a mix of the small two prong fuses and the larger ones. The small ones can be checked without removal but the larger ones can't. Is this worth pursuing.
I know there's another fuse panel under the passenger side floor mat.
Thanks for your help.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 07:10 PM
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If you measure the battery with a meter and have someone try to start the engine, what does the battery read when it usder LOAD?? If it goes really LOW,,,,, your battery is TOAST!! Seen that more than one time!!!!!
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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The electrical center or distribution of the car is at the starter solenoid. You might want to measure the battery down there too just in case you've got a bad crimp. My first thought goes along with Bill but at the solenoid...the postive battery cable going down there could be lose or the negative cable that attaches to the block.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If you measure the battery with a meter and have someone try to start the engine, what does the battery read when it usder LOAD?? If it goes really LOW,,,,, your battery is TOAST!! Seen that more than one time!!!!!
Can't start the engine or put the battery under load. When I turn the key on, there's nothing--no dash lights, nothing. It's like there's no battery in the car.
As was suggested, next step is to check the power at the solenoid. Was hoping to avoid that as I have to raise the car and it's in the street.
Thanks.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by PONI ETR
As was suggested, next step is to check the power at the solenoid. .
Did you even follow Bill's advice? Did you measure voltage at the battery with a meter? Did you have someone try to start the car, and measure voltage at the battery?
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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Whats the use of checking the power at the solenoid??? Its only to power the solenoid/starter.. Check it at the back of the alternator. If the terminal on the back of the alternator has battery power, the solenoid has 12 VDC power also.

Don't understand your description of NO POWER. If the battery is powering the 12 VDC main bus,, ALL the things that are HOT at ALL TIMES power should work. If you turn on the headlights, they should pop up and turn on. There powered ALL the TIME.

Heres the schematic that you need:



See what you have for voltage on the BATT terminal on the alternator.

BC
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Did you even follow Bill's advice? Did you measure voltage at the battery with a meter? Did you have someone try to start the car, and measure voltage at the battery?
If you read the entire thread, you'd see that yes, I did check the voltage at the battery--12-13 volts. With zero power when turning the key, how do you have someone "start the car"?
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by PONI ETR
If you read the entire thread, you'd see that yes, I did check the voltage at the battery--12-13 volts. With zero power when turning the key, how do you have someone "start the car"?
.....the key word being TRY. Which means you place the meter leads on the battery, and watch the voltage, while an assistant turns the key to start.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:46 PM
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What were getting at is..... A battery can read 12 VDC all day long and LOOK perfectly fine. When a LOAD is placed on the battery, it falls flat on it face and the output goes to ZERO! So measuring the battery while placing some sort of load on it, will tell us a LOT. Turn the lights on and see what the battery reads.

BC
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Whats the use of checking the power at the solenoid??? Its only to power the solenoid/starter.. Check it at the back of the alternator. If the terminal on the back of the alternator has battery power, the solenoid has 12 VDC power also.

Don't understand your description of NO POWER. If the battery is powering the 12 VDC main bus,, ALL the things that are HOT at ALL TIMES power should work. If you turn on the headlights, they should pop up and turn on. There powered ALL the TIME.

Heres the schematic that you need:



See what you have for voltage on the BATT terminal on the alternator.

BC
Ok, I just entered the Twilight Zone. Bill, your comment about the headlights prompted me to turn them on (which I hadn't done). Voila! Not only did they come on, but I then turned the ignition key, and IT FIRED! It's as if turning on the headlights unlocked some code that allowed everything to work.
This is why I'm not an electrician.
Thanks so much for your help and the comments of others.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Do you want the GOOD NEWS or the BAD NEWS first

Congrats on the car working. The GOOD

The BAD,,,, You still have a BIG issue. You need to find the BAD CONNECTION... Its STILL there!!

Murphy's Law states that you will see this issue again when it's most inconvenient.

BC

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Apr 21, 2011 at 03:22 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Do you want the GOOD NEWS or the BAD NEWS first

Congrats on the car working. The GOOD

The BAD,,,, You still have a BIG issue. You need to find the BAD CONNECTION... Its STILL there!!

Murphy's Law states that you will see this issue again when it's most inconvenient.

BC
Well thanks for sh*tin' in my cornflakes. But you're probably right.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Do you want the GOOD NEWS or the BAD NEWS first

Congrats on the car working. The GOOD

The BAD,,,, You still have a BIG issue. You need to find the BAD CONNECTION... Its STILL there!!

Murphy's Law states that you will see this issue again when it's most inconvenient.

BC
........without question.
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Old Feb 21, 2025 | 06:58 PM
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Default Spot On

Just replaced battery (upgraded from Group 75 to Group 78) and could not get any power. The tip about making sure the cables were TIGHT was perfect. A couple of more turns on the + cable and boom - I had power! Thanks to Bill Curlee, et al.
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Old Feb 22, 2025 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by RAG2PDY
Just replaced battery (upgraded from Group 75 to Group 78) and could not get any power. The tip about making sure the cables were TIGHT was perfect. A couple of more turns on the + cable and boom - I had power! Thanks to Bill Curlee, et al.
God i hope he did that by know.
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Old May 6, 2025 | 04:31 PM
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Default 02 No Power same issue

I have the same issue on my 02. Did you find a resolution?


Originally Posted by PONI ETR
I have no power whatsoever on my '99 C5. Turn the ingnition key, nothing--no dash lights, no starter motor, nothing. It's as if the battery was disconnected.
Yes, I used cables to try to jump it--nothing.
Recent history: I replaced fuses 33 & 34 under the passenger floorboard to fix the non-working driver's door power window/door lock/mirror buttons.
Shortly after, the FOB stopped working. FOB battery checks ok.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Reply
Old May 7, 2025 | 10:00 AM
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This is a thread that started in 2011, with some recent replies in February of this year. It's sometimes better to open a new thread, that being said have you checked the battery voltage and insured the cables are clean and tight on the terminals?
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