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Anyone have "play-by-play" for oil pan removal?

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Old 04-07-2011, 06:54 AM
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SEE3ER
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Default Anyone have "play-by-play" for oil pan removal?

Going to change oil pan on a '99 FRC, (1pc. design). Have a lift, just need the correct procedure. Any specialty tools required?
Missing my C3 more & more.......
Old 04-07-2011, 06:44 PM
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:30 PM
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I just did this twice last week haha, wont get into why lol.

Anyways

1. Jack the car up, i suggest the front and rear (front the higher the better)
2. Take off wheels
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the frame (10mm bolt)
4. Remove Tie Rods (18mm) (also may need to use some metric allen wrenches 5mm IIRC)
5. Remove Lower shock bolts (13mm deep and 13mm wrench)
6. Remove Upper control arms (4x 15mm Bolts on body)
7. Remove steering linkage (long extension and 13mm IIRC)
8. Remove Motor mount bolts (under car is easier 18mm)
9. Chain the motor and lift up a couple inches (i used the front pass head and the alt bolt)
10. Place jack under the K-member and snug to k-member ( I used a 2x6 about 12" long to get the entire k-member)
11. Remove 4 Kmember bolts (21mm Deep on rear and 21mm Wrench on front if u dont remove the sway bar)
12. Lower the K-member slowly
13. Disconnect the oil level sensor (pass side of pan) and the Oil temp (above oil filter)
14. Remove pan bolts into bellhousing (13mm wrench)
15. Remove pan bolts (10mm, u need to do alot of reaching if you dont remove the mono leaf) But easy to do.

After done do whatever u needed to do clean the pan and block with some brake cleaner and toss on a new gasket.

Reverse to put back together


The second time I did this it took me maybe 3hrs start to finish including putting it together and also did it alone.

I think I didnt miss any steps!

Good luck! Feel free PM me if you get stuck

Jay
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:00 PM
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Great info...not sure how I'm gonna chain and lift up the engine if the car is on the lift??
Old 04-07-2011, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SEE3ER
Great info...not sure how I'm gonna chain and lift up the engine if the car is on the lift??
Kent-Moore actually makes a specific tool for this, but I used an engine hoist when I did mine of jackstands.

You may be able to make this work:


http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
Old 05-28-2017, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette-Chris
Kent-Moore actually makes a specific tool for this, but I used an engine hoist when I did mine of jackstands.

You may be able to make this work:


http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
I have a different problem which is leading me to remove the oil pan: having problems inserting new LT headers from underneath a C5, tubes are blocked by oil pan wing.
See my post: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nstall-c5.html

Thinking of trying your procedure to remove the oil pan.
I need the tool to raise the engine.

Do you know if removing the oil pan will provide enough clearance for the headers to be inserted into place?

Thanks.
Old 05-29-2017, 12:08 AM
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can you access all rod bolts if he pan is off this way?
Old 05-29-2017, 07:03 AM
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I don't know, haven't gotten the pan off
Old 05-29-2017, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by HT99
I don't know, haven't gotten the pan off
Before you proceed any further...........


IF, you decide to remove the oil pan, to install the headers, CAREFULLY look things over, and make sure that with the headers in place, you'll be able to re-install the oil pan!!

Not to bust your chops, but your situation is the first that I've heard of, where considering oil pan removal was being thought of, in order to install headers. In fact, check your headers carefully, and make sure they're for a C-5 Corvette, and not some other LS powered car, such as a Camaro, for instance.


Good luck!!
Old 05-29-2017, 08:38 AM
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Good point! I was thinking the same thing this morning.
i'll call Jon at Huron Speed tomorrow to make sure these are C5 headers.
the box says C5 but there could have been a mixup.

many other forum members did not have these issue with the install.

thanks
Old 05-29-2017, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HT99
Good point! I was thinking the same thing this morning.
i'll call Jon at Huron Speed tomorrow to make sure these are C5 headers.
the box says C5 but there could have been a mixup.

many other forum members did not have these issue with the install.

thanks
I know that with today being a national holiday and most businesses being closed, you're at somewhat of a standstill. However, you could look at a few header manufacturer's websites, and compare the pictures of their Corvette and Camaro headers to the headers you have, and that might help out.


Old 05-30-2017, 09:40 AM
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Success! Thanks everyone for your help.

The problem was when going straight up the header flange would not clear the bell housing corner so I was trying to go up at an angle, front flange up which was not working at all.

I removed the bell housing cover and it gave just a little more clearance and slide right in when positioning the header flange straight.

Bell housing removed




In position but not yet bolted on.

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Old 05-30-2017, 01:15 PM
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Old 06-17-2017, 06:58 PM
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kalayaan12
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Excellent info!

I'm having the exact same problem installing B&B long tubes on my '98 Vert with a manual transmission...

Too worn out to remove the bell-housing tonight, but will see if that helps tomorrow!

Jeff
Old 06-18-2017, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by kalayaan12
Excellent info!

I'm having the exact same problem installing B&B long tubes on my '98 Vert with a manual transmission...

Too worn out to remove the bell-housing tonight, but will see if that helps tomorrow!

Jeff
Argh!

It didn't help
Old 06-18-2017, 02:43 PM
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mike venth
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I have read on the CF were people have just grinded off a little on the corner of the Bell housing on that corner that makes install a witch... Is the car up high enough? It might need more wiggle room??
mike v
Old 06-18-2017, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mike venth
I have read on the CF were people have just grinded off a little on the corner of the Bell housing on that corner that makes install a witch... Is the car up high enough? It might need more wiggle room??
mike v
It's not on a lift, but is pretty high up - enough to feed the header completely vertical.

I'll call B&B and see what they suggest. Bummer of a weekend, though - we don't get much summer here in Michigan, and today would be an absolutely beautiful for a nice cruise!


Jeff

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Old 06-20-2017, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by kalayaan12
It's not on a lift, but is pretty high up - enough to feed the header completely vertical.

I'll call B&B and see what they suggest. Bummer of a weekend, though - we don't get much summer here in Michigan, and today would be an absolutely beautiful for a nice cruise!


Jeff
Cross post to a thread where other members having issues with XSP install and how some resolved the issues. may help.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594982997
Old 12-02-2017, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Corvette-Chris
Kent-Moore actually makes a specific tool for this, but I used an engine hoist when I did mine of jackstands.

You may be able to make this work:


http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to post up that I can verify that this tool will work to remove and replace the oil pan with the motor in the car. Just remember to lower the subframe very slowly so the fiberglass fenders don't absorb all the weight instantly. Took me roughly 3 hours on jack stands with hand tools.
Old 05-31-2020, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay_Rich
I just did this twice last week haha, wont get into why lol.

Anyways

Jay
Old post, excellent resource
Sorry to bring it back as I did what most ask me to do, search for the answers as most of the time there is an answer.
Jay never revealed why he had to do it twice as i just replaced both upper and lower gaskets and it seems to be leaking from the rear corners, and yes I did put a bead of RTV at all 4 corners along the seam where the front and rear covers mate to the block.

When I remove the access plug from the bellhousing I can see the rear main, dry, and it is also dry below the lower bolt for the rear main plate. I am ready to go in again unless there is a known issue with the rear main cover itself.

Any thoughts?


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