Anyone have "play-by-play" for oil pan removal?
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Anyone have "play-by-play" for oil pan removal?
Going to change oil pan on a '99 FRC, (1pc. design). Have a lift, just need the correct procedure. Any specialty tools required?
Missing my C3 more & more.......
Missing my C3 more & more.......
#3
Racer
I just did this twice last week haha, wont get into why lol.
Anyways
1. Jack the car up, i suggest the front and rear (front the higher the better)
2. Take off wheels
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the frame (10mm bolt)
4. Remove Tie Rods (18mm) (also may need to use some metric allen wrenches 5mm IIRC)
5. Remove Lower shock bolts (13mm deep and 13mm wrench)
6. Remove Upper control arms (4x 15mm Bolts on body)
7. Remove steering linkage (long extension and 13mm IIRC)
8. Remove Motor mount bolts (under car is easier 18mm)
9. Chain the motor and lift up a couple inches (i used the front pass head and the alt bolt)
10. Place jack under the K-member and snug to k-member ( I used a 2x6 about 12" long to get the entire k-member)
11. Remove 4 Kmember bolts (21mm Deep on rear and 21mm Wrench on front if u dont remove the sway bar)
12. Lower the K-member slowly
13. Disconnect the oil level sensor (pass side of pan) and the Oil temp (above oil filter)
14. Remove pan bolts into bellhousing (13mm wrench)
15. Remove pan bolts (10mm, u need to do alot of reaching if you dont remove the mono leaf) But easy to do.
After done do whatever u needed to do clean the pan and block with some brake cleaner and toss on a new gasket.
Reverse to put back together
The second time I did this it took me maybe 3hrs start to finish including putting it together and also did it alone.
I think I didnt miss any steps!
Good luck! Feel free PM me if you get stuck
Jay
Anyways
1. Jack the car up, i suggest the front and rear (front the higher the better)
2. Take off wheels
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the frame (10mm bolt)
4. Remove Tie Rods (18mm) (also may need to use some metric allen wrenches 5mm IIRC)
5. Remove Lower shock bolts (13mm deep and 13mm wrench)
6. Remove Upper control arms (4x 15mm Bolts on body)
7. Remove steering linkage (long extension and 13mm IIRC)
8. Remove Motor mount bolts (under car is easier 18mm)
9. Chain the motor and lift up a couple inches (i used the front pass head and the alt bolt)
10. Place jack under the K-member and snug to k-member ( I used a 2x6 about 12" long to get the entire k-member)
11. Remove 4 Kmember bolts (21mm Deep on rear and 21mm Wrench on front if u dont remove the sway bar)
12. Lower the K-member slowly
13. Disconnect the oil level sensor (pass side of pan) and the Oil temp (above oil filter)
14. Remove pan bolts into bellhousing (13mm wrench)
15. Remove pan bolts (10mm, u need to do alot of reaching if you dont remove the mono leaf) But easy to do.
After done do whatever u needed to do clean the pan and block with some brake cleaner and toss on a new gasket.
Reverse to put back together
The second time I did this it took me maybe 3hrs start to finish including putting it together and also did it alone.
I think I didnt miss any steps!
Good luck! Feel free PM me if you get stuck
Jay
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Turbotalon1g (07-04-2022)
#5
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
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St. Jude Donor '08
You may be able to make this work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
#6
Kent-Moore actually makes a specific tool for this, but I used an engine hoist when I did mine of jackstands.
You may be able to make this work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
You may be able to make this work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
See my post: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nstall-c5.html
Thinking of trying your procedure to remove the oil pan.
I need the tool to raise the engine.
Do you know if removing the oil pan will provide enough clearance for the headers to be inserted into place?
Thanks.
#9
Team Owner
Before you proceed any further...........
IF, you decide to remove the oil pan, to install the headers, CAREFULLY look things over, and make sure that with the headers in place, you'll be able to re-install the oil pan!!
Not to bust your chops, but your situation is the first that I've heard of, where considering oil pan removal was being thought of, in order to install headers. In fact, check your headers carefully, and make sure they're for a C-5 Corvette, and not some other LS powered car, such as a Camaro, for instance.
Good luck!!
IF, you decide to remove the oil pan, to install the headers, CAREFULLY look things over, and make sure that with the headers in place, you'll be able to re-install the oil pan!!
Not to bust your chops, but your situation is the first that I've heard of, where considering oil pan removal was being thought of, in order to install headers. In fact, check your headers carefully, and make sure they're for a C-5 Corvette, and not some other LS powered car, such as a Camaro, for instance.
Good luck!!
#10
Good point! I was thinking the same thing this morning.
i'll call Jon at Huron Speed tomorrow to make sure these are C5 headers.
the box says C5 but there could have been a mixup.
many other forum members did not have these issue with the install.
thanks
i'll call Jon at Huron Speed tomorrow to make sure these are C5 headers.
the box says C5 but there could have been a mixup.
many other forum members did not have these issue with the install.
thanks
#11
Team Owner
#12
Success! Thanks everyone for your help.
The problem was when going straight up the header flange would not clear the bell housing corner so I was trying to go up at an angle, front flange up which was not working at all.
I removed the bell housing cover and it gave just a little more clearance and slide right in when positioning the header flange straight.
Bell housing removed
In position but not yet bolted on.
The problem was when going straight up the header flange would not clear the bell housing corner so I was trying to go up at an angle, front flange up which was not working at all.
I removed the bell housing cover and it gave just a little more clearance and slide right in when positioning the header flange straight.
Bell housing removed
In position but not yet bolted on.
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kalayaan12 (06-17-2017)
#13
Team Owner
#14
Racer
Excellent info!
I'm having the exact same problem installing B&B long tubes on my '98 Vert with a manual transmission...
Too worn out to remove the bell-housing tonight, but will see if that helps tomorrow!
Jeff
I'm having the exact same problem installing B&B long tubes on my '98 Vert with a manual transmission...
Too worn out to remove the bell-housing tonight, but will see if that helps tomorrow!
Jeff
#16
mike v
I have read on the CF were people have just grinded off a little on the corner of the Bell housing on that corner that makes install a witch... Is the car up high enough? It might need more wiggle room??
mike v
mike v
#17
Racer
I'll call B&B and see what they suggest. Bummer of a weekend, though - we don't get much summer here in Michigan, and today would be an absolutely beautiful for a nice cruise!
Jeff
#18
It's not on a lift, but is pretty high up - enough to feed the header completely vertical.
I'll call B&B and see what they suggest. Bummer of a weekend, though - we don't get much summer here in Michigan, and today would be an absolutely beautiful for a nice cruise!
Jeff
I'll call B&B and see what they suggest. Bummer of a weekend, though - we don't get much summer here in Michigan, and today would be an absolutely beautiful for a nice cruise!
Jeff
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594982997
#19
Melting Slicks
Kent-Moore actually makes a specific tool for this, but I used an engine hoist when I did mine of jackstands.
You may be able to make this work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
You may be able to make this work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
#20
Sorry to bring it back as I did what most ask me to do, search for the answers as most of the time there is an answer.
Jay never revealed why he had to do it twice as i just replaced both upper and lower gaskets and it seems to be leaking from the rear corners, and yes I did put a bead of RTV at all 4 corners along the seam where the front and rear covers mate to the block.
When I remove the access plug from the bellhousing I can see the rear main, dry, and it is also dry below the lower bolt for the rear main plate. I am ready to go in again unless there is a known issue with the rear main cover itself.
Any thoughts?