TCS No Comm .....
I did think it was the Traction control switch, but I was still checking things to make sure.
What I found was the ground next to the battery under the battery heat shield shown above by Bill Curlee in the second pic was super loose.
Thank you Mr Curlee you saved me quite a few hours of going crazy looking and testing.
u1040 loss of communication showing up. Grounds and fuses have been checked. Could it be a bad abs module? How could I verify and if it is, can it be repaired as outlined in a previous post by resoldering and replacing the relay or should it be sent in to ABSFixer?





Remove the safety strip, pop the plug out by unlatching it and do voltage and ground checks at the connector.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jun 2, 2011 at 08:44 PM.
I'll start doing the things in the this thread but I'm such a newb...
Where are the EBTCM fuses and the Main EBTCM Connector?
Fuse box in the engine and passenger footwells.
Also, is it just Fuses 5, 6, and 52? (that's all I see in those schematics)
Voltage: Am I looking for ~12.6V at the red wire, ?? ignition voltage at the brown wire, and 5V? at the light blue wire?
Ground Checks: Is this a continuity check from the connector to the ground point at 108?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





- All the required 12.VDC power supplies, There are multiple fused circuits)
- All the required GROUNDS
- Ability to communicate on the serial data line
- All the proper inputs/outputs
Use the schematics provided and measure the supplied voltage on each module FUSE. On the TOP of each fuse are two small slots. Those are test slots. Measure each slot to chassis ground You should see battery voltage. Some require the ignition to be switched to ON to be powered.
Disconnect the main connector and read the grounds wires for proper continuity to chassis ground. You can also use battery ground. Should be close to ZERO OHMS if the ground is proper.
With the ignition ON, when the EBTCM messages pop up, without switching OFF the ignition read the DTCs using the DIC internal code reader. If the messages prevent you from reading the DTCs. Press RESET until all the messages go away. Then read the DTCs
The DTCs will tell you what the module is complaining about.
If you get NO COMMS, the electronics in the module isn't working. Either its bad or not powered up.
Serial Data. If you have an issue on the serial data line, other modules will also tell you. When you read the DTCs, always include the DTCs for all the other modules. It will help you under stand if there are problems somewhere else that is preventing the proper operation of the EBTCM.
If you cant read meters and schematics, find a friend that can and teach you how.
Bill
The DTCs will tell you what the module is complaining about.
If you get NO COMMS, the electronics in the module isn't working. Either its bad or not powered up.
Serial Data. If you have an issue on the serial data line, other modules will also tell you. When you read the DTCs, always include the DTCs for all the other modules. It will help you under stand if there are problems somewhere else that is preventing the proper operation of the EBTCM.
Bill
I am getting "28-tcs no comm" how can I get the system to power up? A few weeks ago I took the ebcm apart and re soldered it in order to get rid of the "service traction control" and "service ABS" and they worked perfectly until now all of a sudden I am getting this no comm code after leaving my car parked a few days and coming back to a dead battery. The battery tested 100%





BC
I'm going nuts over here. Just so were on the same page..I am supposed to be focusing on engine fuse block fuse #s
5 (anti-lock brakes, selective ride control)
52 (anti lock brakes)
53 (anti-lock brakes electronics)
right??
What is the proper voltage that each is supposed to have?
Which grounds go to the ebtcm?
Is it possible that I overpowered some ground wire by turning the car on while the battery was still connected to the charger??
Thanks!









EVERY fuse in your car, protects a battery supplied circuit. The battery at rest, (key off, engine off) will be 12 VDC..
A brand new fully charged battery will be somewhere around 12.3 VDC
SO,,, if like " 8VETTE7 " recommended,, you read the voltage at the battery terminals and you get 11.96 VDC,,, you SHOULD see something close to that reading on each battery buss supplied fuse.
Some fuses are ONLY HOT or powered when the IGNITION SWITCH is in the ON/RUN position.
The ignition switch contains SIX individual switches. When a switch OPENS & CLOSES it makes a small spark. Each time it does that, it leaves a carbon deposit on the switch contact. That carbon build up over time causes resistance between those contacts.
IF,, you read an IGNITION SWITCH supplied fuse,, it is possible that the reading that you see will be MUCH less than the supplied battery voltage because of the DIRTY switch contacts.
You might for instance have 12.2 VDC Battery voltage at the switch but see 8 VDC on the ignition switch supplied output circuit.
The module will NOT function on 8 VDC... You would have to clean or replace the switch to fix the low voltage issue.
To figure out if you have a voltage issue,,, you have to physically read the voltage supplied to each FUSE IN THE CIRCUITS THAT ARE HAVING AN ISSUE!
MERRY CHRISTMAS

BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 25, 2013 at 07:49 PM.
I had four codes present: p1277, p1689, 1040, and 1571 and occasional TCS No Comm. They were random in nature and would appear at different times.
By doing Bill's checks suggested above with a multimeter, I realized that ABS fuse #5 in the engine compartment fuse panel was only sometimes reading voltage. But the fuse looked fine and was not burned out. I replaced with a new 10A one and the problems went away. To make sure that it was the cause, I turned ignition ON with the new fuse removed. Same TCS no comm ABS light came on.
Hope that it will solve my issues, but I guess time will tell. Have an autox event this coming Sunday. Ultimate litmus test!
- All the required 12.VDC power supplies, There are multiple fused circuits)
- All the required GROUNDS
- Ability to communicate on the serial data line
- All the proper inputs/outputs
Use the schematics provided and measure the supplied voltage on each module FUSE. On the TOP of each fuse are two small slots. Those are test slots. Measure each slot to chassis ground You should see battery voltage. Some require the ignition to be switched to ON to be powered.
Disconnect the main connector and read the grounds wires for proper continuity to chassis ground. You can also use battery ground. Should be close to ZERO OHMS if the ground is proper.
With the ignition ON, when the EBTCM messages pop up, without switching OFF the ignition read the DTCs using the DIC internal code reader. If the messages prevent you from reading the DTCs. Press RESET until all the messages go away. Then read the DTCs
The DTCs will tell you what the module is complaining about.
If you get NO COMMS, the electronics in the module isn't working. Either its bad or not powered up.
Serial Data. If you have an issue on the serial data line, other modules will also tell you. When you read the DTCs, always include the DTCs for all the other modules. It will help you under stand if there are problems somewhere else that is preventing the proper operation of the EBTCM.
If you cant read meters and schematics, find a friend that can and teach you how.
Bill













