For some odd reason my 99 has just started doing the damn "Pull Key-Wait 10 Seconds" every time I start it up.
I have had a CLB for over 4 years and had the fuel cut off reset during my tune at ECS.
The only thing "new" lately is I just had my water pump replaced but I fail to see how that would trigger the "Pull Key-Wait 10 Seconds" every time I start the car.
I tried cleaning the ign. switch with contact cleaner and cleaner the resistor on the key. Also did a re-sync with the FOB and the car.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

i had the same issue for over a year, was convinced i needed a new bcm. checked the relay on the bcm and it was corroded. has your a/c ever leaked? thats how mine got messed up. best of luck

 

Where is the BCM relay located?

 

i never put my hands on it, but from my understanding, its on top of the bcm, which is in the passenger footwell. maybe someone can chime in and verify the location of the relay.

 

Pull your codes first!

Yes, its mounted in the footwell. But, just look for evidence of water. Do not remove it without first disconnecting the battery. Then if you elect to open it up, I suggest wrist ground-straps to a grounded location. This is to prevent any possible electrostatic discharge from ruining components. Alcohol will work for cleaning it up, if it becomes needed. Do not reconnect the battery until this has been reinstalled and connected.

 

^^^VERY VERY good info. let us know what you find out.

 

I have had the recall done but I do get this issue every few years when my battery is going out on me. If you battery is 3-4 years old check your charge. Clears mine up every time.

 

Thanks to all,

Yes my "cleaning" involved just squirting contact cleaner into the lock cylinder
Only getting the Pull Key message, no Service Column Lock message
No sign of moisture in the foot well at all
Udders are clean on both sides, I check these often and I have a foam filter over the cowl intake. Car is garaged.
My battery is less than a year old
My 99 had several of the Chevy recalls done prior to me buying it......I saw them listed on the service records and VIN search
I will follow the relay clean process and see what shows up.

Thanks again,
Jim

 

I actually removed my freakin ignition and found a couple of the contacts were corroded, so I cleaned then accordingly. Didn't solve anything, but at least they r clean now

 

This is for you frustrated Vette owners who can't get rid of the "Pull key. wait 10 sec." dic code. I checked that all of the factory methods of repair had been applied to my 98 C5, then read the factory notice at- http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...layed-426.html

My car is an automatic so I only read that portion, then scanned down to the wiring diagram for my car. I noticed that the BCM is waiting for a feed back signal from the relay telling it of the column unlock state. In the text at the end it tells the mechanic that the first time the key is inserted the "pull key" msg. will show, but then the system should be syncronized after that.

From this I guessed that my system had never synced and the bcm was still waiting for the feedback, in this case, a completed ground circuit by the column lock relay. In my car, however, someone has removed the relay and cut off the connecting plug, leaving bare wires hanging. I considered getting a plug and relay and rewiring it, but decided to give the bcm feedback a grounded signal to see if it would then syncronize.

The feedback wire is light green C15 so I took a test wire from my diagnostic kit left over from my days working for GM dealers until I retired. The test wire has a standard male data pin on one end, a female in the middle, and a small alligator clip at the other end. I inserted the male pin into the C15 Lt. grn. location on the outside of the C connector, then connected the alligator clip to ground.

Holding my breath, I put the ign key in, heard a relay click (never before), then turned the key to the on position. The "pull key" msg. lit up so I turned it off, pull the key, and waited the ten seconds. When the key was turned back on there was no msg. (nothing new, it usuallly did that).

I turned the key off, went inside and watched tv for a while then went back to the Vette to try the fix again. This time there was no "pull key, wait" msg as there always was in the past. To test it in a real world situation I removed the test lead, waited a while then tried again- no msg appeared in the dic so I cranked it up and drove to the parts house to get a bulb for a courtesy lamp. Each time I started the car there was no msg appearing to delay my driving. Sometimes in the past I had as many as three consecutive "pull key" msgs. each time I tried to start it.

I waited a couple of hours for the engine to cool down so I could flush the cooling system then went out and put the key in and turned it on. This time the "pull key" msg was back and it was misbehaving as before, coming on almost every time I tried it so I reinstalled the test lead, grounding the Lt. grn. C15 wire, which disabled the "pull key" msg again. I am going to leave the test lead in place as my car does not have the column lock relay to provide the ground feedback signal to the BCM.

If this causes any future problems I will post the result here, but for now, drivng the car with the test lead connected does not seem to have a detrimental effect.

 

Not sure if this was done when you had the CLB done, but was the brown wire mod done? I had the same issue as you and had a new CLB put in by a Corvette shop figuring they would fix it. Ended up being a couple extra minutes on the CLB doing the brown wire mod. If you have the instructions still, it will walk you through the process on how to do it. also, my vette is a 2000 m6.

 

LMC5 will be easier !!
http://www.complianceparts.com/lmc5whoneeds1.html

 

definitely do this, I was under the impression that the clb was the lmc5 lol too many acronyms

 

Soofrsh, I feel your pain on the acronyms. That is why I have been keeping a list of them (updated as new ones appear) that are frequently used on the forum. Here they are: The comments may not be exactly right for the purist but are good for me

ASR
Acceleration Slip Regulation. AKA, Traction Control.

BCM
Body Control Module. It is a computer that controls or interfaces with all the body functions and communicates with all the other modules/computers in the car. BCM is one of the 11 DTC-sections.

CEL
Check Engine Light with engine symbol and Check below. Usually refers to emission related issues.

CLB
Column Lock Bypass
Device for preventing column lock.

DIC
Driver Information Centre. It's the small screen behind the steering wheel that says "Corvette... by Chevrolet" and that shows you what's wrong, if anything.

DCM
Door Control Module. Controls the locks and windows. Can be repaired.

DRL's
Daytime running lights. An in-between to not having lights on at all and popping up your regular lights.

DTC
Diagnostic Trouble Code. To fetch them, turn your car's key to 'on', reset all DIC messages by hitting button #6, then hold button #4 and hit button #1 four times. Now you can write down the DTC's, if present.

EBTCM
Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module. This is a module or computer, 1997-1998 situated underneath the trunk of the car, after that in the engine compartment, that governs ABS as well as traction control. Thanks @LoneStarFRC for the correction.

ESC
Electronic Suspension Control. It's a module that does as its name suggests.

FOB
Actually this is not an abbreviation but it may still be good to have in this list. A key fob is the little transmitter / receiver that you use to open / close the car, set the alarm etc.

FRC
Fixed roof coupe, this being the hardtop version of a C5. The abbreviation also stands for 'fuel rail cover' and, as if we could forget, also for 'Flying Roof Club'. You'll become a member automatically upon having your coupe roof fly through the air due to it not being fastened. Thanks @ronwc for this contribution.

HUD
Head-up display. Option available as of late '99. The car's speed and other variables are projected on your windshield. To install, see here.

HVAC
Heater, Ventilator, Airconditioning. If you have a HVAC-code, it has something to do with either your heater, ventilator or airco. HVAC is one of the 11 DTC-sections.

IAT
Intake Air Temp (sensor). If sensor is defective, will show active handling warm up on DTC and may not pass emissions.

IPC
Instrument Panel Cluster. It contains all instruments and the DIC. IPC is one of 11 DTC-sections.

LTFT
Long Term Fuel Trims


LMC5
An aftermarket module that, once installed, fixes or prevents column lock failures.

LDCM
Left door control module. This is the module or computer that controls everything related to the left door. LDCM is one of 11 DTC-sections.

MAF
Mass Air Flow. A sensor that tells the computer in your car info about airflow prior to entering the throttle body. It is the device between the air filter housing and the flat tube that connects to the engine at the throttle body. It has a wiring connection that runs back to the engine. A check engine light may occur if the MAF screen is dirty. If dirty, the MAF needs to be pulled and the screen should be cleaned by spray. Codes and P0171 H P0174 H are Lean banks 1 and 2. MOST likely cause of these two codes together is an air leak after the MAF.

Check the air plumbing between the MAF and TB for loose clamps, cracks in the rubber couplings etc

Also check out the hoses for the PCV system. Over time they rot and also allow unmetered air into the system which causes the lean codes on both banks..

MIL
Malfunction Interior Light

OBDII
On-Board Diagnostics II. System to read and diagnose DTC's. To connect to a C5's OBDII, you need to connect a Tech II (or another type of) scanner to the car's OBDII-port. The connector is located underneath the IPC.

OEM
Original Equipment Manufacturer. If someone tells you to buy OEM parts, he means original GM stuff made specifically for your C5.

PCM
Powertrain Control Module. It is the computer that controls the engine. It is designed to maintain exhaust emission levels while maintaining drivability and fuel efficiency. Functions: fuel control, ignition control, knock sensor system, automatic transmission shift functions, certain manual transmission parts, cruise control enable, generator, evaporate emission purge, air-conditioning clutch control, cooling fan control and secondary air injection. PCM is one of 11 DTC-sections.

RDCM
Right door control module. This is the module or computer that controls everything related to the right door. RDCM is one of 11 DTC-sections.

RFA
Remote function actuation. This module controls the receipt of FOB signals. RFA is one of 11 DTC-sections.

RPO
Regular Production Option. Check your Corvette's factory-built options in the left storing space lid in the back of your C5.

RTD
Real-time damping. This was an RPO for C5's that served to enhance suspension (special shock absorbers, sensors and a console mounted selector with choices of Tour, Sport and Performance.

SCM
Seat control module. It is a module or computer that controls the driver seat. SCM is one of 11 DTC-sections.

SDM
Airbag Control Module

SWPS
Steering Wheel Position Sensor.

TCS
Traction Control System. This system, based on the same principles as ABS but used vice-versa, improves traction of the wheels. TCS is one of 11 DTC-sections.

TDR
THEFT DETERRENT RELAY! (TDR) Look in the passengers foot well... Remove the toe board that covers the fuse panel/BCM. On the fire wall, above the BCM will be some relays. Different numbers for different years.

The relay with FOUR WIRES is the TDR. The wire colors are: Purple, Red, Yellow and Yellow Black Stripe.

TPMS
Tire pressure monitoring system. This module checks whether your tires have correct pressure. If an error is encountered, you'll see a warning in the DIC.

WTB
Want To Buy

Z51
A Corvette with special performance and handling package.

 

Up date- after I reinstalled the test lead it didn't seem to work as before. It was getting dark so I got a trouble light out to check what I had done- found that I had grounded the identical color wire but in the #15 position opposite the first #15 pin I had grounded in the morning that had seemed to work. The second #15 pin controls the r/f driving light. It, the light, was staying on even with the key removed. I pulled the lead out, it was now too dark to work any more. I will start again tomorrow.

 

Refer to above recommendation from JQuest54 regarding battery. My'99 started up with all kinds of codes going off, making me more than a little irritated. Finally found my near new battery, less than a month old, was defective. Replaced with another new battery and all was fine, no more issues/codes. C5's, I am told, are extremely sensitive to voltage issues and can kick off a myriad of problems. Its an easy check and may or may not be the problem, but its an easy possible cause to check off your list. Good luck!

 

When I bought the car about 3 months ago the previous owner said the the Interstate battery in it was brand new. A couple of weeks ago the temperature outside dropped to the low 50's and the car began to crank slowly in the AM but was OK for the rest of the day. When I saw the Doctor again he said the battery shop owner was a personal friend of his and he got free batteries when he need one. The battery lasted another week until the temp dropped to the high 40's, then it wouldn't even turn over. I jump started the car using my 12 year old Optima deep cycle RV battery ( I charge this one 2 or 3 times a year), loaded the Optima in back with the jumper cables and headed for the auto store. The price for these Optima batteries is high but they give long service lives. I bought a new Red top with 800cca capacity and haven't had any starting problems since.

When I was working as a mechanic in car dealerships a good battery always showed 12.7 volts after a full charge and the car's charging voltage would reach 14.4 volts as the battery reached full storage capacity. The charging system in this Vette never goes higher than 13.6 volts even if the battery is fully charged. This lower system voltage in my experience is sometime linked to one or both battery cables have high resistance, which, over time can ruin a good battery. A battery maintained in a lower voltage state is forced to deliver much higher cranking amps than one that has a fully charged 12.7 volt state. the higher cranking amps will warp the cell plates and crush the insulators, shortening the battery's life span.

I doubt that the battery cables have ever been changed in this car so that is the next issue I will tackle. Most cars also have an additional ground cable(strap) connecting the engine block to the car's frame, if this cable(strap) is aged it can prevent the correct voltage from reaching electronic parts (ECM, BCM, gages). Digital electronics are very sensitive to actual circuit voltage and will malfunction when voltage goes below the lowest allowed limit. For instance, a small car's smaller engine will turn over fine with 8 volts in the starter circuit during cranking, but the ignition systems usually shut off with that same voltage. It turns over but won't start.

This morning when I started the Vette, the fuel gage showed empty with 25 miles fuel range remaining. I wondered about this because when I parked it last night after a 100 mile round trip the fuel gage showed 1/4 tank and a lot more fuel range remaining. I stopped it on a paved spot and got out to see if there might be a fuel leak. I didn't see any evidence of a fuel leak so I drove the 6 miles to a Shell statio to gas it up. Filled to the top the tank would only take 16.14 gallons so there was about 3 gallons still in the tank. There could also be a current draw when it is parked.

 

I installed the LMC5 kit on my 00 FRC this past weekend to bypass all the column lock BS and I have no more issues . I highly recommend !

 

While doing some research on the battery cables I found a recommendation to install a brass washer between the battery post and the cable. It seems that the battery bolts used in the cables are too long for some batteries, tightening the bolt will bottom it out, cracking the battery case and dumping acid on the ECM below. Since my Vette has already had this acid leak problem this seem like a good fix. I will have to eventually replace my ECM, the case shows severe acid damage.

 

If you have a "CLB" and it's been 4 years, you may have one of the old, original Corvettes of Houston CLBs. Is it installed up under the steering column I take it?
In any case, I would recommend installing the LMC5 that pounder mentioned. Be sure to do the brown wire mod mentioned in the directions as well.
No need to remove the CLB. Leave it in place; doesn't affect a thing.