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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20
NCM Sinkhole Donor
HELP! What is missing from my car?
My C5 with an LS3 has recently been in two shops. Today, I am looking under the hood and the car is missing a hose of some sort!! Can someone tell me what is missing and where it's supposed to go? And the consequences of it not being attached?
That's an AIR valve, there is supposed to be a rubber hose going from that to the front driver's side of the bumper, where there is an electric motor (AIR pump). The purpose of it is so that the AIR pump will pump outside air into the exhaust on startup and heat up the cats faster (if I remember correctly). It's just an emissions thing, shouldn't effect the way the car runs. That valve is supposed to be a one-way valve so exhaust shouldn't be able to escape regardless. Try running the car and see if any gasses are escaping. If not, you should be fine but it should probably be hooked up for emissions compliance either way.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by Dope
That's an AIR valve, there is supposed to be a rubber hose going from that to the front driver's side of the bumper, where there is an electric motor (AIR pump). The purpose of it is so that the AIR pump will pump outside air into the exhaust on startup and heat up the cats faster (if I remember correctly). It's just an emissions thing, shouldn't effect the way the car runs. That valve is supposed to be a one-way valve so exhaust shouldn't be able to escape regardless. Try running the car and see if any gasses are escaping. If not, you should be fine but it should probably be hooked up for emissions compliance either way.
Dope
Is there another one of these back behind the driver side valve cover? Looks like the same thing. Also, any idea what would happen if the one way valve started leaking?
Yes, one on each side hanging off the exhaust manifold.
If the one way valve leaks, you'll have an exhaust leak. Most likely would screw with the way the car runs since it'd be a leak before the O2 sensors.
As a test, you could always take off that valve and the little tube that connects it to the manifold, and buy/fashion up block off plates to completely block off that hole in the manifolds. If you're not handy, they are sold by many vendors.
Might be worth it for testing purposes. Though I would think if they were leaking you could tell immediately (exhaust gases exiting plus it would sound like a loud exhaust leak I would think - think loud ticking sound).
No Codes? You should see a p01415 for the drivers side valve,and a p01416 for the pass. side air check valve being inoperative.
I'm getting a 1416,and luckily(?)I'm going to have the intake off to change a bad oil pressure sending unit,so I'll change the air check valve at that time.
The hose below the alternator that has a strap around it and then dissapears beneath the brake master is the air hose. That hose should T and go to that valve and also to a pipe that goes around the back of the engine (behind the drivers side valve cover) to the passenger side manifold, with another valve somewhere behind the engine I believe.
You put your car through CARB testing since the LS3 install? I seem to remember CARB test looks at codes and fails the car on certain ones even if they're in history. Definitely want to clear codes before you have the car tested and probably ought to consider hooking up the AIR because a quick glance shows the inspector the system is disconnected and it's a state AND federal violation to run the car without it.