I need to replace a wheel speed sensor wire on my fancy SKF wheel bearing (wire simply broke at the plastic boot). Does anyone have any tips on removing the plastic cover and a pic of what is underneath?

Thanks.

 

I thought it was a non-serviceable part? You have to replace the entire bearing assembly, which has the sensor in it.

EDIT:

Yea I just looked it up as one of mine every year or so will pop up. I also thought I could replace it but the picture and everything I could find said you had to replace it all.
Rockauto has their house brand bearing for $52 for the front and $76 for the rear.

 

Can't speak for the SKF variety, but you can repair an OEM one. Bill has pics floating around somewhere.

 

Might be "non-serviceable" by the dealership, but I'm sure it is someone's job to take these apart.

 

Found it. It will give you an idea anyway....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1554880319-post184.html

 

Great, thanks. Next steps are figuring out how to pop the hat off and then get access to the wiring.

 

Cool. You can do a write up on it.

 

I take EVERYTHING GM apart thai I can get my hands on.

That hub assy is EASY! Just get a flat blade screw driver blade tip under the lip of the cover and twist.

The sensor its self is almost bulet proof. Should be very easy to reinsert the leads, seal them in the gromet and solder them to the little terninal board inside.

Its an AC OUTPUT signal so, make sure that you spin it and check the output when you all done. I would also check the condition of the FEMALE PINS in the jumper harness and the connector on the K Member.

bill

 

Great, thanks. I'm replacing the troublesome stock connectors with weatherpaks and using high temp (400F) teflon wire.

 

Replacing the wires was indeed easy, thought it can get complicated.

Note that this is for the SKF ZR-1 hub adapted to C5s. I imagine the procedure for an oem-style Timken or SKF is the same.

1. Pop off the cover using gently pressure from a flat blade screw driver at each corner, next to the wheel bearing bolts. Work your way around 3-4 times. If you press up on the other areas, you will likely damage the cover (a strip will rip, as in the pic in "Right Way" below) and you will need to flatten this before reinstalling.

2. Once the cover is off, remove the silicone that encases the wire/connections (a pick works if you are careful).



3. Note the way that the wire is soldered. If you use thin 20 gauge teflon wire (recommended), you can mimic the stock wiring scheme (using the plastic wire holds). If you use thicker (or less flexible) wire, you will need to make a straight shot to the wire boot.

4. If you use thicker wire, you will need to drill out the rubber boot so the wire can fit through.




5. You want to solder the wire to the terminals with the solder connection on the side of the tab that is away from the wheel bearing. This will make sense when you look at it - if you solder on the other side, there is a chance that the cover will not fit down fully and/or the solder connection will touch the wheel bearing. Nothing from the soldering connection can extend above the white circular ring (that ring bottoms on the rest of the bearing when the cap is pressed on).

Right way:


Wrong way:


6. Once you route and solder the wires, load on the silicone like you found it, then store the bearing with the studs up so the silicone does not seep into the bearings.

7. After a few hours, reinstall. I used weatherpak connectors to avoid any issues with the troublesome stock connectors.

NOTE: Be very careful with a pick. Inside the black ring is about a mile of very fine copper wire. It is easy to accidentally pierce the plastic black ring. If you do this, you will need to make sure the wire is not wedged btw the ring and the body of the sensor (i.e. it is with the other wire). Gently use a pick to herd the strays and then reinsert the black cover. You should not see any copper.