"Uh oh" Harmonic Balancer
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Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Altus AFB Oklahoma
"Uh oh" Harmonic Balancer
Well today I took my car out for a spin and about 4 miles in I noticed an amazingly annoying squeal/squeak coming from the front of my car. When I got home I checked it out and realized that it was coming from my pullies, when I sprayed the balancer with some WD40 it stops for a few seconds then comes back. I pulled the belts off and they looked fine for 10k miles on them. So I cranked the car up for a few seconds and the sound was still there
Since the only thing spinning up front at this point is the balancer I figure its bad. About an hour later after griping to my brother who has helped with the car before and has no idea why it would squeak without any load on it. I went back out to start it again and maybe take a look. No squeak. Any idea on what is going on here? I have done some searching and don't want the thing to walk on me and cause serious issues. Why would it squeak at one time and then not another? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Since the only thing spinning up front at this point is the balancer I figure its bad. About an hour later after griping to my brother who has helped with the car before and has no idea why it would squeak without any load on it. I went back out to start it again and maybe take a look. No squeak. Any idea on what is going on here? I have done some searching and don't want the thing to walk on me and cause serious issues. Why would it squeak at one time and then not another? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Altus AFB Oklahoma
Took a quick look at it this morning and it looks as if the balancer is slightly farther forward than the rest of my pullies. I think its walking out on me and failing, no idea why it squeals though. I'm thinking I should just replace it. What underdrives would you guys recommend? already have a cam in there so at least I don't need money for that too lol.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 278
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From: Las Vegas, Nv
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
You have to drop the steering rack to put in a new harmonic balancer. If you are going to do that you might as well replace the timing chain and oil pump since they are right there.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,458
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From: Northville Michigan
Took a quick look at it this morning and it looks as if the balancer is slightly farther forward than the rest of my pullies. I think its walking out on me and failing, no idea why it squeals though. I'm thinking I should just replace it. What underdrives would you guys recommend?
None !
Purchase an ATI LS1 aluminum balancer - PN 917266.
They are available at Summit Racing for approximately $460.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Altus AFB Oklahoma
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 173
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From: Altus AFB Oklahoma
As far as steering rack removal I know some on here do not like ls1howto.com it was a section on removing it in the heads cam swap write up.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
If it is indeed backing out, you need to get in there quick. If was just a squeek, the tensioner pulley is usually the culprit. I had a Powerbond 25% UD pulley for 3 years, or so, without issues, so I replaced it (GM bolt) with another Powerbond at stock size for the SC, and it was under $200. Pretty simple part, and if installed correctly, should give you no problems for the life of the car. I don't honestly know why some people have such a huge problem with using a HB that doesn't cost $500. My friend's '04 is leaking around the crank seal, so he's going to be doing the same thing soon. I advised him to get a PB UD pulley, but he wants to stay at the stock size.??? WTF- free HP, but it's his car. I'd be doing a cam, if I had to do that much work, anyway. I can't be helped, either. 
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Altus AFB Oklahoma
If it is indeed backing out, you need to get in there quick. If was just a squeek, the tensioner pulley is usually the culprit. I had a Powerbond 25% UD pulley for 3 years, or so, without issues, so I replaced it (GM bolt) with another Powerbond at stock size for the SC, and it was under $200. Pretty simple part, and if installed correctly, should give you no problems for the life of the car. I don't honestly know why some people have such a huge problem with using a HB that doesn't cost $500. My friend's '04 is leaking around the crank seal, so he's going to be doing the same thing soon. I advised him to get a PB UD pulley, but he wants to stay at the stock size.??? WTF- free HP, but it's his car. I'd be doing a cam, if I had to do that much work, anyway. I can't be helped, either.
From what I can feel and see by sticking my noggin in there the bolt does not seem to be backing out. But the serpentine portion of the pulley is definatley farther forward than the rest but not by much. Causing it to send the belt backwards toward the block 2 ribs. I think I am set on a powerbond though lots of good things said about them.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,458
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From: Northville Michigan
I have worked as an OEM automotive engineer for a long time.
A great deal of work is done sizing crankshaft damper pulleys. Things like water pump flow rate, alternator charging capability, and air conditioning cooling capability are considered.
Only those individuals who sell underdrive pulleys, or want to show 6 to 10 horsepower gains at the expense of A.C., Alternator, and Water Pump efficiency recommend them.
If an undersize pulley were best for your engine, the Corvette Engineers would have designed and installed it. A smaller pulley is less expensive for GM to buy than the standard size pulley.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 309
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From: Mendota IL
I agree with Pumba.
Changing the size of the crank pulley negatively effects the efficiency of everything that is turned by the belt (previously mentioned by Pumba above). Even though the negative effects are very minimal and may not be noticed instantly, they do exist. To me, it's not worth the measly 5-10 hp increase.
I do care about horsepower and really like it, but not at the expense of decreasing efficiency and shortening the life of other components.
Changing the size of the crank pulley negatively effects the efficiency of everything that is turned by the belt (previously mentioned by Pumba above). Even though the negative effects are very minimal and may not be noticed instantly, they do exist. To me, it's not worth the measly 5-10 hp increase.
I do care about horsepower and really like it, but not at the expense of decreasing efficiency and shortening the life of other components.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
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From: Pasco WA
What efficiencies are being compromised? They're running at slightly slower speed than normal, just as if you were driving slower. This argument is just stupid. And as far as the opinion, that GM engineers would have done it that way, if it was better, is even more unlikely. You actually believe that the engineers of the GM megacorp have the final say? Incredibly naive, to be kind. 
BTW, Pumba, do you think that using a large font, in bright blue, makes your opinions have more validity? I guess it could be worse, like all caps.
BTW, Pumba, do you think that using a large font, in bright blue, makes your opinions have more validity? I guess it could be worse, like all caps.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,983
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From: Stoney Creek Ontario
I've had a Powerbond 25% UD pully on mine for 3 years, no issues at all with cooling/alt/power steering/air cond etc....regardless of weather and traffic..... since I had to drop the rack to change the pully, (it was same cond as yours') I figured I may as well do the oil pump and timing chain, then I figured if I was doing that I may as well do a cam change too, (with new lifters) then decided a set of heads would go good with that cam, then decided that a set of shaft mount rockers will be good too, then I figured may as well throw on a set of long tubes and a full exhaust, than I added a TC and gears to help it all, and then a whole bunch more stuff too....
and now my pully dosen't squeel any more!
and now my pully dosen't squeel any more!
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 309
Likes: 1
From: Mendota IL
What efficiencies are being compromised? They're running at slightly slower speed than normal, just as if you were driving slower. This argument is just stupid. And as far as the opinion, that GM engineers would have done it that way, if it was better, is even more unlikely. You actually believe that the engineers of the GM megacorp have the final say? Incredibly naive, to be kind. BTW, Pumba, do you think that using a large font, in bright blue, makes your opinions have more validity? I guess it could be worse, like all caps.
BTW, Pumba, do you think that using a large font, in bright blue, makes your opinions have more validity? I guess it could be worse, like all caps. zeevette, I don't believe this is an argument going on here. Only members stating opinions on what they like and think is best. By all means, if you think using an underdrive pulley is best, then go ahead, state your opinion with the rest. But there's no need to criticize other's opinions over it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
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From: South Dakota
I've had a Powerbond 25% UD pully on mine for 3 years, no issues at all with cooling/alt/power steering/air cond etc....regardless of weather and traffic..... since I had to drop the rack to change the pully, (it was same cond as yours') I figured I may as well do the oil pump and timing chain, then I figured if I was doing that I may as well do a cam change too, (with new lifters) then decided a set of heads would go good with that cam, then decided that a set of shaft mount rockers will be good too, then I figured may as well throw on a set of long tubes and a full exhaust, than I added a TC and gears to help it all, and then a whole bunch more stuff too....
and now my pully dosen't squeel any more!
and now my pully dosen't squeel any more!
I started reading this post to my wife. I got to the 3rd mod when she started saying No. The No kept coming through the rest of the mods.
I actually have a powerbond and an ARP bolt on my workbench now, and hope to put them in this weekend.
(She also likes cars and mods and usually wants me to do something more on hers.)
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
Water pump, alternator, A/C, power steering. The rate at which they turn via engine speed is changed (has nothing to do with MPH speed, fyi) using an underdrive pulley. These components efficiencies were designed to operate with the stock crank pulley, I do assume. I really don't think that is naive btw.
zeevette, I don't believe this is an argument going on here. Only members stating opinions on what they like and think is best. By all means, if you think using an underdrive pulley is best, then go ahead, state your opinion with the rest. But there's no need to criticize other's opinions over it.
zeevette, I don't believe this is an argument going on here. Only members stating opinions on what they like and think is best. By all means, if you think using an underdrive pulley is best, then go ahead, state your opinion with the rest. But there's no need to criticize other's opinions over it.
Sorry, JMHO. Now that's taken care of, why do you post info that's JYHO, and make it sound very authoritative? I don't want to sound like I'm attacking, but read your own posts; they're near to nonsense and pure speculation. You can parrot Jpig, the shouter, but there's no data, or real world proof of anything you've said. OTOH, there's hundreds of people posting real experience with UD pulleys that have no negative issues. Just because it sounds all scientificish (AFAIK, not a real word) proves nothing. At the end of your pontific sentence, I highlighted the only thing that's relevant, and ask you; how can this be assumed?