I have a 97 C5 with dual climate control and I can't get the compressor to kick on to accept freon.The light flashes on the control button and then goes out.Freon must have leaked out during winter month's.Can someone give me some help.I put freon in once before with no problem but no luck this time.I'd be greatful for any help.

 

If it is leaking, esp bad enough to be dry and not work at all, you need to fix that problem first.

 

The best advice is to take it to a professional shop and have them connect a vacuum pump to it first to determine the source of the leak.

 

Then charge low side with 3 cans of R134a

 

HANK! Unless you properly monitor the HIGH and LOW side pressures,,,,,, How can you recommend that??

The "properly" way to get your system back on line is to see whats wrong with it and resolve the issues it has... What DTCs are you seeing?

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!


Read the pressures in the HIGH and LOW side of the system!


if there LOW,, fix the leak,, install an OIL CHARGE ,, vacuum out the system if necessary and "recharge properly"!

The pressures may indicate a plugged LOW SIDE restrictor ORFICE TUBE!

Here are a few POST that will help you!!

- C5 HVAC Repair; http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...with-pics.html

- C5 AC System Service and Repairs: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1570703001 ,, Rocco’s post http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1571637102



- C5 HVAC Display repair: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...splay-fix.html



BC

 

Codes 0361 H and 0441 H came up in manual diag but only 0361 H C came up in the automated sequence . I cleared all the codes from the whole system but the hvac codes came back now with just the H following.There is also 1545 and 1546 in the PCM codes so don't know if they might be related. If the actuator is bad can you reprogram it or just replace it?I am pretty good with a wrench and normally fix things myself so is it something I could replace or does a pro with a/c equipment need to do it?

 

I would suggest as Marlin said, getting the AC up and working first, and not worry about the codes. I think that once it is blowing cold, the codes may just go away, if not, then you can move in that direction next.

 

the 361 and 441 means you probably have a bad driver's side actuator and the usual failure there is a cracked gear. Now as for these other two:

P1545 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit
P1546 A/C Clutch Status Circuit Low Voltage

 

Find the low pressure cycle switch and jumper it with a paper clip. Watch your pressures and charge the system.

 

Heres some HVAC/AC post for you to check out:

- C5 AC System Service and Repairs: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1570703001 ,, Rocco’s post http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1571637102


- CJCVETTE, mcgilles How to repair HVAC ACTUATORS: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1576657600 , http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1577408061
-

 

You cant!! Its a solid state device just like the oil pressure sensor and you will damage it.

BC

 

If its like all the others its a simple pressure switch. Remove the connector and JUMPER THE LEADS NOT THE SWITCH. Check for leaks after you charge it. If you have to add some freon with dye.
This is not rocket science. It is JUST and air conditioner.

 

Check out the pressure switch in this schematic!



Tell me what pins you would jump!

Will it work or will it fry??????????????

 

The purpose of that post was to try and determine the skill set of the OP. Jumpering the actual switch will do nothing, the metripack connector is where its at. I should have been more free with the info

 

So can you jump the connector to get the compressor to kick on?

Asking because I'm going to evacuate/vacuum my system and want to make sure I'll be able to get the pump to kick back on...

 

NO you can not! Just add r-134 and when it gets to the correct pressure, the clutch will engage. No need to jump the switch. If you submerge the can up right in hot water while your charging, the can will empty quite fast.. Make sure you charge the low side can upright (gas only)

BC

 

Thanks so much BC

And you should NEVER add gas to the high side correct? Even on a completely empty system? Reason I ask is I found this thread a couple of weeks ago...seems to have some decent info but there is a post or two where a member is saying to add LIQUID freon into the HIGH side when your AC system has been completely emptied out??

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...errerid=228945
Thanks again,

Donnie

 

The high side see pressures from 150 to 250 PSI.. That can burst the R-134 can. Correct.. NO gas on the high side. You cant hook an R-134 can to the high side anyway. SAFETY MEASURE!

 

 

Well the coupler on hose would not push the shrader valve down enough for freon to go in so I cleaned it good and put pressure on it till it went in.Only one can and all seems good but eventually I will have to find the leak.Thanks for all the responses and for explaining how the system should work.