Removing rear knuckle/hub

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May 22, 2011 | 07:17 PM

Dolfan

Thread Starter

Burning Brakes

Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 1,035

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From: Atlanta Ga

Removing rear knuckle/hub

OK, well I decided to remove the hub to replace wheels studs, so this is where I am.

- brake caliper, bracket and rotor removed
- tie rod end removed
- lower ball joint nut off
- upper ball joint off
- loosened sway bar end bolt (probably not needed)
- spindle nut removed

No mater what position I put the car into I cannot get an play and cannot get either ball joint to budge???

I've got a jack stand under the lower arm and I can vary to position of the car by lower the lift. Tried to get the car into "normal" geometry position and still can't move anything?

I'm trying to to beat on anything but does it make send to replace the ball joint bolts onto the treads to give then a smack or two?

I've gotta be close, but just can't get anything to move!

With all th

May 22, 2011 | 08:21 PM

Dolfan

Thread Starter

Burning Brakes

Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 1,035

Likes: 0

From: Atlanta Ga

Well I finally got the knuckle up and o the lower ball joint but the upper will not let go!!! I'm not worried as I was after the hub, but still don't know why it would not let go!

May 22, 2011 | 08:53 PM

vjjack04

Melting Slicks

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 2,944

Likes: 1,112

From: Hereford AZ

You will need to pry the joints with a pickle fork/pry bar and good hammer. Firm tapping is what it takes.

May 23, 2011 | 09:32 AM

CHJ In Virginia

Safety Car

Joined: Nov 2000

Posts: 4,549

Likes: 30

From: Shenandoah Valley Virginia

Two ways to attack the upper joint - 1) Purchase the proper Kent Moor Tool which makes removal very easy and you will not destroy the boot. Tool is pricy but you will save a LOT of time if you do this on a regular basis. Part number is in the factory repair manual. 2) Use the BFH tool. The ball joints are a tapered fit. Make sure the car is firmly supported on jack stands. Reattach the bottom joint and snug the bolt up finger tight. Remove jack from the bottom of the spring and restore tension on upper joint. Loosen the ball joint bolt but do not remove leaving at least 2-3 threads showing. Use your BFH and smack the spindle in the bolt location sharply a couple of times. It takes a good whack, but not a huge one to break the tension and make the taper slide out. The tapered joint will pop loose. DO NOT HIT THE BOLT !!

May 23, 2011 | 09:06 PM

Dolfan

Thread Starter

Burning Brakes

Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 1,035

Likes: 0

From: Atlanta Ga

good info for future jobs, I just left the top on and got the hub out with the bottom removed which is all I was trying to do.

May 24, 2011 | 05:32 PM

00Corvette

Melting Slicks

Joined: Sep 2006

Posts: 2,736

Likes: 7

From: Redding CA

I rented the autozone ball joint separator for free and it worked great. Some experienced members here also have just used a big hammer and whacked that thing with a 2x4 or something in between the A-arm and the hammer as to not damage the control arm.

May 24, 2011 | 10:35 PM

GeorgeZNJ

Race Director

Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 14,639

Likes: 39

From: Winston-Salem North Carolina

St. Jude Donor '08-'09

I've used the "fork ball joint tool" and it works like a charm, but I've also tried this trick on my truck and work vans, take two hammers and at the same time tap whatever the ball joints are in (A-arm etc) from opposite sides, joint pops right out.

May 25, 2011 | 07:37 AM

zeke2u

Racer

Joined: Mar 2011

Posts: 394

Likes: 58

From: lancaster MA

Hey George or CHJ - What's the trick for torquing the nut on the bottom ball joint? There are three different "passes" with three different values - the last being 52 ft-lbs. Could anyone explain what these "passes" are? There was no way I could get my torque wrench on this nut - there's not enough room between the stud and the CV joint/boot. So, when I replaced the knuckle on my Z', I just was only able to fit an open end wrench on the nut and tightened it by "feel" - it's probably a little more than 52 ft-lbs.