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I finally experienced the famous "sticky clutch". I'd read about it for awhile but hoped it wouldn't happen to me. No such luck. At least it happened in the garage and not on the side of the road.
I went straight to TickPerformance since all reviews seem to agree that it's the best replacement. I ordered the master cylinder and was extremely pleased until I received an email from Tick the next day telling me that the units were backordered until the end of June. OMG, can't drive my baby for over a month? No way.
Does anyone know where to get one of these master cylinders other than directly from Tick? I'd hate to have to put in an inferior product just in order to get back on the road.
I finally experienced the famous "sticky clutch". I'd read about it for awhile but hoped it wouldn't happen to me. No such luck. At least it happened in the garage and not on the side of the road.
I went straight to TickPerformance since all reviews seem to agree that it's the best replacement. I ordered the master cylinder and was extremely pleased until I received an email from Tick the next day telling me that the units were backordered until the end of June. OMG, can't drive my baby for over a month? No way.
Does anyone know where to get one of these master cylinders other than directly from Tick? I'd hate to have to put in an inferior product just in order to get back on the road.
I think you may be out of luck. Or, you can try draining your fluid and replacing with clean fluid in the interim....TICK is the way to go! If you do not wish to take any chances, then you can use this down time to remove your seat, clutch pedal, master cylinder, separate the clutch line (a royal pain in the azz if you ask me) and prep your swap out in advance. Don't forget to order the slave cable (remote bleeder) to help make changing fluids easier.
Last edited by WICKEDFRC; May 29, 2011 at 01:52 PM.
I appreciate the quick reply. You are right, of course. Now would be the time to take care of my list of all those little things I've needed to do but never had the time. Now it's time to begin asking for advice on some of those things.
You wouldn't know how to go about replacing my HUD trim would you? Mine has a couple of cracks and I've got the new one but no idea how to replace it. Time for another thread since I couldn't find anything while searching.
What mods are you running? I had the same sticky clutch syndrome and after some calls to tuners the last tuner suggested that if I had a close-to-stock setup just replace the clutch master with a OEM Z06 one (which ironically is the same part number as the stock one I pulled from my '99 FRC).
That was in May 2010 and my OE replacement has been working fine since. One of the reasons these fail is because nobody replaces the clutch reservoir or does the ranger method.
Thus the built up clutch dust messes up the hydraulics of the OE master (this info originally gathered from one of Ranger's threads I believe).
Not trying to turn you away from the Tick but I've also heard complaints with clutch pedal feel as well.
I paid about $150 for the OE replacement, Mike Yeager has them for $89.99.
I would never consider putting in a stock clutch. If you have to go to all the expense/PITA of a clutch, go aftermarket. I realize the OP's just talking MC now, but often that's not enough to cure the problem, depending on power level/driving style.
I would never consider putting in a stock clutch. If you have to go to all the expense/PITA of a clutch, go aftermarket. I realize the OP's just talking MC now, but often that's not enough to cure the problem, depending on power level/driving style.
Would you recommend upgrading to a aftermarket clutch with a relatively stock LS1 setup?
And for the record, this OE master was good enough for the 405hp Z06 to run 7:56 at the famed Nurburgring, so it's good enough for me.
Would you recommend upgrading to a aftermarket clutch with a relatively stock LS1 setup?
And for the record, this OE master was good enough for the 405hp Z06 to run 7:56 at the famed Nurburgring, so it's good enough for me.
If you're stock, it's just a matter of keeping everything in top condition, via the "Ranger method". If you have to replace just part of the clutch, and you've selected the MC, then I believe stock is OK, if maintained. I would at least check out doing the "drill mod" by researching the subject over at ls1tech.com. It's a free mod, and supposed to make the stock MC flow more fluid. On a related matter, I would imagine road racing puts different stress on the drive train than drag racing, so clutch problems may be caused by different elements.