Parking brake handle seems broken...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Parking brake handle seems broken...
My parking brake handle doesn't "click" and stay up anymore.
My driveway has a slight incline. Car idling on the driveway; if I pull the handle up the car remains stopped but when I let go the handle falls and the car starts rolling.
The pictures toward the bottom here....
http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...brake_h_b.html
....look like the parking brake handle is a sealed unit and this is not something I can fix. Do I have to buy a replacement parking brake handle?
My driveway has a slight incline. Car idling on the driveway; if I pull the handle up the car remains stopped but when I let go the handle falls and the car starts rolling.
The pictures toward the bottom here....
http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...brake_h_b.html
....look like the parking brake handle is a sealed unit and this is not something I can fix. Do I have to buy a replacement parking brake handle?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria Ca.
Peel up the boot,and check the "pawl" that ratchets on the "sawtooth looking"(for want of it's real name)curved part of the mechanism-the pawl's pivot point may be dirty or rusty so the button pushes it up,but then it sticks there,instead of dropping down and "biting in" and holding the brake cable tight.
Something could very well be broken in there,but I'd check everything for freedom of movement before spending money on a replacement mechanism...
Something could very well be broken in there,but I'd check everything for freedom of movement before spending money on a replacement mechanism...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Thanks,
That part of the mechanism must be visible when the actual handle is removed?
I must say that it seems slightly crazy that the center console has to be so torn apart to unBOLT the parking brake boot.
That part of the mechanism must be visible when the actual handle is removed?
I must say that it seems slightly crazy that the center console has to be so torn apart to unBOLT the parking brake boot.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 426
It's easier if you remove the passenger seat. Look for dried up and hardened grease clogging the mechanism and teeth. You may get it going again using brake cleaner or something similar to get the grease off it. Smells so nice in the cabin too.
Once it's working you can use the lubricant of your choice.
Once it's working you can use the lubricant of your choice.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
check out this members web page'''
http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#parkbrake
look at both the pawl service and the brake adjustment 4 & 5
http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#parkbrake
look at both the pawl service and the brake adjustment 4 & 5
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Finally got around to this....
The pawl on the outside of the parking brake handle drops in place just fine. The little internal pawl, however, doesn't. Everyone agree that the internal spring needs to be looped around the metal tab?? (3rd photo) I can't see how I'll be able to fix that??
parking brake lever:
small pawl that locks the handle up:
spring that I think needs to be looped around the metal tab:
The pawl on the outside of the parking brake handle drops in place just fine. The little internal pawl, however, doesn't. Everyone agree that the internal spring needs to be looped around the metal tab?? (3rd photo) I can't see how I'll be able to fix that??
parking brake lever:
small pawl that locks the handle up:
spring that I think needs to be looped around the metal tab:
Last edited by 7.56Z06; Aug 10, 2011 at 02:24 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,052
Likes: 20
From: boston mass
Finally got around to this....
The pawl on the outside of the parking brake handle drops in place just fine. The little internal pawl, however, doesn't. Everyone agree that the internal spring needs to be looped around the metal tab?? (3rd photo) I can't see how I'll be able to fix that??
parking brake lever:
small pawl that locks the handle up:
spring that I think needs to be looped around the metal tab:
The pawl on the outside of the parking brake handle drops in place just fine. The little internal pawl, however, doesn't. Everyone agree that the internal spring needs to be looped around the metal tab?? (3rd photo) I can't see how I'll be able to fix that??
parking brake lever:
small pawl that locks the handle up:
spring that I think needs to be looped around the metal tab:
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 0
From: Boston MA
OK. I've done this TWICE. As you can see by looking at the trigger, it is attached to the medal rod, which is shown in the arrow in the pic.
The rod on mine straightened out and stopped engaging with the mechanism that the rod is wrapped around (you can hardly see it, since the stupid thing is in the handle - you can partially see it in the pic.
The inside mechanism engages with the outer piece that engages with the teeth on the handle.
So... you need to make sure the inside rod (red line) is wrapped nicely on the inside mech (blue outline).. Your's doesn't look as bad as mine. Move the mech left, so its on the left end of the hole, then use a small flathead screwdriver to get in the hole to help wrap the rod around the inner mech.
If its difficult to get at the rod, it is possible to pull the rod out from the trigger end. Just pull the spring so the trigger and rod end sticks out the handle, and pull gently at first. It can fight you, but keep pulling - harder if needed - and it will come out. Then you can bend the end of the rod as needed, and stick it back in.
The rod on mine straightened out and stopped engaging with the mechanism that the rod is wrapped around (you can hardly see it, since the stupid thing is in the handle - you can partially see it in the pic.
The inside mechanism engages with the outer piece that engages with the teeth on the handle.
So... you need to make sure the inside rod (red line) is wrapped nicely on the inside mech (blue outline).. Your's doesn't look as bad as mine. Move the mech left, so its on the left end of the hole, then use a small flathead screwdriver to get in the hole to help wrap the rod around the inner mech.
If its difficult to get at the rod, it is possible to pull the rod out from the trigger end. Just pull the spring so the trigger and rod end sticks out the handle, and pull gently at first. It can fight you, but keep pulling - harder if needed - and it will come out. Then you can bend the end of the rod as needed, and stick it back in.
Last edited by knyght4; Aug 10, 2011 at 08:07 PM.
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Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
From: Rockville MD
My parking brake doesn't stay up either. I will try bending the rod around the pawl a little tighter but I'd like to know about purchasing another one if I have to.
Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 746
Likes: 65
From: Phoenix, AZ
I just did this job. I found that when I pulled the wire out it straightened the big arc essentially making the whole thing too long. After reshaping the part that goes around the pall and re-arcing the wire it works great.
When it is the correct length the spring that holds the button will have a good amount of tension on it.
Thanks for this thread! Once again this site saved me a bunch of time and money.
When it is the correct length the spring that holds the button will have a good amount of tension on it.
Thanks for this thread! Once again this site saved me a bunch of time and money.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 245
Likes: 3
wtf so im digging this thread back from the dead...lol. I have literally put that rod back in place 20 times n it will work once or twice n pop back out. I think I need to know how the rod is bent up to the pawl. I think mines completely not shaped right. Im talking about how the wire from the button is bent in the lever assembly. I think even though I get it over pawl easily im not coming in at correct angle or something so its not stayn over pawl
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: arlington tx
killertiller
I felt your pain. I think that just pulling it out and pushing it back in changes the overall shape of the rod enough to make it too long even after bending the end back to correctly hang on the sprawl. The bends in a rod inside the handle needs to be perfect both from a profile view and top view (2 dimensions in the bend).
Normally I've found that once you take something apart and figure exactly how it works, it's not hard to fix... but to get it to that point you really need it out of the car and mounted in a vice or something, but by that point I personally just got so frustrated it was worth the $275 to just buy a new one!
I felt your pain. I think that just pulling it out and pushing it back in changes the overall shape of the rod enough to make it too long even after bending the end back to correctly hang on the sprawl. The bends in a rod inside the handle needs to be perfect both from a profile view and top view (2 dimensions in the bend).
Normally I've found that once you take something apart and figure exactly how it works, it's not hard to fix... but to get it to that point you really need it out of the car and mounted in a vice or something, but by that point I personally just got so frustrated it was worth the $275 to just buy a new one!
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 245
Likes: 3
I finally got it !!!!!! had to put alot of thought into how the bend should and the angle the rod needs to come into the pawl so it stays on instead of just putting it back together.
killertiller
I felt your pain. I think that just pulling it out and pushing it back in changes the overall shape of the rod enough to make it too long even after bending the end back to correctly hang on the sprawl. The bends in a rod inside the handle needs to be perfect both from a profile view and top view (2 dimensions in the bend).
Normally I've found that once you take something apart and figure exactly how it works, it's not hard to fix... but to get it to that point you really need it out of the car and mounted in a vice or something, but by that point I personally just got so frustrated it was worth the $275 to just buy a new one!
I felt your pain. I think that just pulling it out and pushing it back in changes the overall shape of the rod enough to make it too long even after bending the end back to correctly hang on the sprawl. The bends in a rod inside the handle needs to be perfect both from a profile view and top view (2 dimensions in the bend).
Normally I've found that once you take something apart and figure exactly how it works, it's not hard to fix... but to get it to that point you really need it out of the car and mounted in a vice or something, but by that point I personally just got so frustrated it was worth the $275 to just buy a new one!
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Just finished working through this issue. A few thoughts:
- It’s odd that the rod would straighten given the strength of the metal. I’m not a puss, but the metal was hard to bend given the problem and application.
- I didn’t read the owners manual, but based on the operation of the rod, tension on the rod, etc. I’m now going to pushing the button in to engage the brake. That seems to keep the rod from moving excessively and causing it to straighten.
- I almost threw in the towel for a replacement. However I realize that a new one is a waste of money and a used one could have the exact same problem lurking. I would recommend trying to get a used one from an automatic car. You know that the e-brake wasn’t used much on a auto transmission car much.
- You can fix this. It is at the end of the day metal to bend. There’s a lot to do to get there. However well worth the save in $.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 344
Likes: 65
From: Ontario, Canada
First post speaks of pushing the handle down to get out of the car. Curious how this works, does it still make the racheting sound when you pull it up. If it just pushes down how to you release it. Basically asking how it operates?
