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Towed home again/17 codes

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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:03 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Here is a list of ground locations and what is grounded at each location for the C5.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1548038331-post1.html

And the C5 and grounding does make complete sense if you take the time to understand what is actually happening.
Thanks for the info. You locations will be a great help this weekend when I tackle the project.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
OK,, Ill throw my 2 cents in! Seeing how you have U DTCs, and there on the LDCM, RDCM & RFA,, I be willing to bet that you have a poor CONNECTION in one or BOTH of your DOOR WIRING HARNESSES CONNECTORS!

Here’s the deal. Pop the accordion tube out of both doors:





Once you get the accordion tubes popped out of the door and door frame, pull the wiring harness connectors out of the door frame A pillar hole. Once you have them out, un-plug the connectors and inspect ALL the pins (MALE & FEMALE) Look for damage, corrosion and deformation.

On this connector, (power plug) the female pin on the TOP ROW "center pin), is deformed. The little metal tong is bent down and will cause a poor intermittent connection. When the module gets power interruptions or spikes in power, it causes CAOS on the serial data line and the modules can NOT COMMUNICATE properly. It can and will cause the car to shut down.

Sounds simple enough but, this issues has stranded me more than once before we figured out what caused it. Sometimes just shaking the hell out of the accordion tube/wiring harnesses will be enough to get you back on the road!. I’ve even seen it fix its self when you close and open the door!

Just re-bend the little metal tong back in place and carefully reconnect the connectors (with the rubber accordion tube back on ) and see if that resolves that issue.




Having a low charge on your battery and or a weak battery can and will leave History U series DTCs. The U-series DTCs happen immediately during the crank session because your battery voltage drops LOW enough for some modules to shut down because of a B+ voltage below 9 VDC!
If your battery is low or needs to be replaced, get it recharged or replaced.

This sounds like a fast fix, and I will check it first. I will also check all the grounds before I start dugging into the fuel pump.
Thanks, PHASTC5
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Got uid0
Does this only occur at certain speeds?

Possibly speed sensor damage or unplugged on the wheel bearing?
It has happened two times. First time I was at a stop and trying to turn into a parking lot. It accelorated, then died, and I coasted into the lot. We then waited for the tow truck. It started when we got it home and has run for the 4 or 5 times out of the garage in 6 months.(rain delays)
This time is when I was on I-5 at 70 mph, and it just shut down. Tow truck time again. It started again when I got home, so I went accross the street to my Snap-On Tool Salesman neighbor to run the diagnostics while it was running. In the process it died again in his drivway and I towed it home with my Quad. It still sets in my shop and will try all the topics from this forum this weekend.
Thanks to you, and all that are helping me.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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Here's my $0.02 to go along with the other great advice: check your ignition fuses in the Instrument Panel Electrical Center. I had a similar problem to yours, and the source was a $3.30 fuse.

With your KEY ON, ENGINE OFF => wiggle each fuse back and forth and see if the power cuts in and out. Perhaps the female connections are loose.

Also...Bill Curlee's advice is worth TWICE its weight in gold...he helped me out with my issue...

Good luck!
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by sunchaser73
Here's my $0.02 to go along with the other great advice: check your ignition fuses in the Instrument Panel Electrical Center. I had a similar problem to yours, and the source was a $3.30 fuse.

With your KEY ON, ENGINE OFF => wiggle each fuse back and forth and see if the power cuts in and out. Perhaps the female connections are loose.

Also...Bill Curlee's advice is worth TWICE its weight in gold...he helped me out with my issue...

Good luck!
Yep, I checked the fuses first thing each time. I pulled them, checked and put back in. I even pulled the ignition relay and checked for corrosion there. Still wouldn't start.
Thanks for the thought.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 12:03 PM
  #26  
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what voltage is your battery holding?
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 12:30 PM
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All the ground related posts in this thread have good merit
I'll say that I had a similar condition that involved a fuel pump overheating and shutting down. Same deal, sit for 20 minutes or so and starts right up. Fuel pump was defective BUT I'd start with the ground suggestions first. Good Luck
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 10:12 PM
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Were you able to check that ground?
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