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Help--Replacing Steering Wheel Position Sensor

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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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Default Help--Replacing Steering Wheel Position Sensor

I have read over several times the instructions for replacing the steering position sensor including the #66 post in the DIY thread.
I have a 2002 Coupe with telescopic wheel and there is another mechanism for that which is preventing me from removing the steering column. It also has a black cable cable connected onto the firewall.
All connectors mentioned are removed, the 4 bolts holding the column and it is now loose but this telescopic motor mounted to the steering shaft is in the way. This motor is mounted to the column with special bolt heads as well so removing it would require a tool I do not have. I am stumped what to do next. Anyone's help is appreciated.

Steve
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 11:10 PM
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I'm about to attempt this as well
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 11:52 PM
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I just did this repair on a fellow member's car. You do not have to remove the telescopic motor, it will all come out as one unit. The cable you see connects at the lower point of the column. If you have the column all the way down you just have to work it out. It is a tight fit but it can be done. Just be sure to keep the wheel from doing a 180 turn. I had to turn the wheel and column about 90 degrees to slip it out. Hope this helps.
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandit 00C5
I just did this repair on a fellow member's car. You do not have to remove the telescopic motor, it will all come out as one unit. The cable you see connects at the lower point of the column. If you have the column all the way down you just have to work it out. It is a tight fit but it can be done. Just be sure to keep the wheel from doing a 180 turn. I had to turn the wheel and column about 90 degrees to slip it out. Hope this helps.
Remember to remove the studs that hold the column at the top mounts to get clearance. Check for wire harnesses zip tied to the column. We had to remove at least one that was in the way.

Gary
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandit 00C5
I just did this repair on a fellow member's car. You do not have to remove the telescopic motor, it will all come out as one unit. The cable you see connects at the lower point of the column. If you have the column all the way down you just have to work it out. It is a tight fit but it can be done. Just be sure to keep the wheel from doing a 180 turn. I had to turn the wheel and column about 90 degrees to slip it out. Hope this helps.
Am I to remove the cable connected to the motor. How?
Also another member indicates to remove the studs for the bolts fastening the column. They appear to need a special tool for removal. Looks like a special socket is required and they unscrew from the dash?

I also noticed when I pulled the column it moved about 1/2 in and there is was a small amount of oil which dripped down just below the blue housing for swps.
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by sjc*2
Am I to remove the cable connected to the motor. How?
Also another member indicates to remove the studs for the bolts fastening the column. They appear to need a special tool for removal. Looks like a special socket is required and they unscrew from the dash?

I also noticed when I pulled the column it moved about 1/2 in and there is was a small amount of oil which dripped down just below the blue housing for swps.
No, leave the cable attached. The studs are very easy, they have a square head on them and you use like a 5mm socket IFRC. They will just loosen up and remove. Make sure all the tie-wrapped wires are free from the top and you should be good. Not sure about the oil but there was some grease on the column for lubricating purposes.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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So the secret to getting the column out if you have the telescopic wheel is to remove the pins that the nuts go onto where it connects to the dash. Thanks to SilverC54me for that recommendation. An E7 Torx socket is the right tool for this. I had to go and buy a set as all I had was torx bits not E-Torx sockets as they are called.

To re-thread the 2 nuts to the column where it attaches to the firewall (these are a b";-!! to get to) I used a flexible extension with the 13mm socket holding the nut and it was a piece of cake to rethread the nuts on. A long extension with a 13mm universal socket was used to tighten the nuts back up. Removing the drivers side wheel and opening up the inspection panel in the wheelwell gives you perfect access to the steering shaft nut and bolt and really helps to align it back up during re-assembly. This was recommended in another post and was a really good suggestion. There is 9 7mm screws holding it in place. 6 are visible right away and 3 are under the car.
Here is the link to that. It's post #35.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-sensor-2.html

I also put duct tape on the wheel to hold it in place and prevent it spinning during removal and once removed from the car . There are several warnings about not letting the steering wheel turn more than 90 degrees so I locked it in place with some tape to be sure.


Drove the car and no codes now..so far.

No $$ for the stealership but I think my chiropractor is going to get more of my time after twisting like a pretzel under the dash.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sjc*2
So the secret to getting the column out if you have the telescopic wheel is to remove the pins that the nuts go onto where it connects to the dash. Thanks to SilverC54me for that recommendation. An E7 Torx socket is the right tool for this. I had to go and buy a set as all I had was torx bits not E-Torx sockets as they are called.

To re-thread the 2 nuts to the column where it attaches to the firewall (these are a b";-!! to get to) I used a flexible extension with the 13mm socket holding the nut and it was a piece of cake to rethread the nuts on. A long extension with a 13mm universal socket was used to tighten the nuts back up. Removing the drivers side wheel and opening up the inspection panel in the wheelwell gives you perfect access to the steering shaft nut and bolt and really helps to align it back up during re-assembly. This was recommended in another post and was a really good suggestion. There is 9 7mm screws holding it in place. 6 are visible right away and 3 are under the car.
Here is the link to that. It's post #35.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-sensor-2.html

I also put duct tape on the wheel to hold it in place and prevent it spinning during removal and once removed from the car . There are several warnings about not letting the steering wheel turn more than 90 degrees so I locked it in place with some tape to be sure.


Drove the car and no codes now..so far.

No $$ for the stealership but I think my chiropractor is going to get more of my time after twisting like a pretzel under the dash.

Good for you. Glad you had the same success as I did.

Gary
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