I had a low battery and I jumped the car. I ran the car to recharge the batter and it did that in a very short period of time. I let the car idle and decided to go for a drive to recharge it that way. I got in it, started, and put it into gear. The car started to move and then just died. I restarted and it did the same thing. It dies whether I put it into any of the gears, including Reverse. It idles just fine and sounds like normal, but when it starts to move, it just dies. Any thoughts? I have been searching the forum and it sounds like a fuel lock problem. How do I solve this?

Thanks

 

I don't believe that the steering wheel locks. It hasn't while I have had the car. I haven't had this problem until the battery went dead.

 

It is a 97 Coupe with an auto transmission. I will pull the codes. Thanks

 

Thank you so much for that. I now understand what is going on. The first thing I am going to do is get a new battery, charge it, and then install it. I will see if that takes care of it.

What is the best way of taking care of the tuning? I don't really understand what that is.

Right now, or as soon as I can, I will pull the codes and see what I have there.

Thanks again. I am so happy that this site is here. I am a member to a similar site for my other cars, and they are great too. It is a true value to have the site here and I will check into becoming a supporting member of some sort. ...........

 

Thanks again. I have someone who will probably be able to help me with the tuning.

 

I just got a new battery installed after making sure it is fully charged. I started it and I get the message "Steering Column Lock". How do I reset it or what is the next thing to do? I let the car idle for a while to make sure the battery is charged and then turned it off. Now I will check for the GM K Harness. I will go from there.

 

I didn't have the battery disconnected for 10 minutes. I will get the codes and post them here. Thanks

 

Ok I checked the codes and there seemed to be only 1.

It is "QC Code 414131"

I left the battery disconnected for over 2 hours and then reconnected it. When I started it, it gave directions to remove the key for 10 sec.

I did that and it then gave a "Steering Column Lock"

I will check to see if I have the GM K Harness. There is no buzzing when the key is put into the car or taken out.

One quesiton. After the 2 hours of the battery being disconnected, I just realized that the key was in the ignition and was not taken out before I started it. Should it be taken out for that amount of time and then put into the ignition just before starting?

 

Just went back and reconnected the battery after an hour. I started after putting in the key and was given a pull key for 10 sec message. I heard the buzzing that you asked about before. It did it when I put in the key and after I took the key out. The sound comes from the steering column. I will check the code and will get back to you. I did see PM and will do that in a while. Thanks

 

OK, here are the codes:

P1571 H

B0432 H
B2588 H
B2593 H

B2252 H
B2206 H
B2282 H
B2284 H
B2262 H
B2264 H
U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H

B0851 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1160 H

That was all of them. If you need anything else, let me know. The steering coloum does buzz or sound like it is doing something when the key is taken out or inserted.

 

Thanks for your help. I will clear the codes and then run, and check codes again and post here. I will check on the K harness.

 

Make 100% sure that your battery is FULLY CHARGED, properly connected (battery connections torqued to 11 ft/lbs) and all the DTCs are cleared. Then try it! If it fails,,,before you turn the ignition OFF,, read and post those DTCs

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Another positive outcome.

I ordered a Steering Lock Simulator Kit from Corvettes of Houston and it arrived on Friday. I installed it, cleared the codes, and it works like it should now. I can drive it again! The biggest chalenge on the whole repair was getting the knee bolster back in. Other than that, it was pretty easy. The next thing I will do is have a shop tune the car so if this happens again, it will not shut off the fuel pump until the car reaches 255 mph instead of 2 mph.

This forum is great and I really appreciate all of the members who help on these projects. It makes owning this great car fun instead of feeling you are being taken advantage of by the stealerships.

I would also like to thank 8VETTE7 for all of his help. It made a hard frustrating problem into something I look back on as not all that bad. He and others really came through. Thanks You

I just got back from a drive with the targa roof off and the sun out, one of my best drives ever.

 

Many thanks guys for the informative posts. I jumped in the car a couple days ago to go to work and got the dreaded column lock message. Took the CBR to work instead but read your posts and when I got home I unhooked the battery and got it on the charger. After fully charged I hooked it all back up and everything has been fine since.

 

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. This forum and particular this thread got me out a jam. LMC5 ordered. Thanks again to all.